Viewing 29 posts - 1 through 29 (of 29 total)
  • Have you gone 2×9?
  • rickon
    Free Member

    Hi Chaps,

    I need to replace my middle and inner rings on my 9sp drive train. I’ve been toying with the idea of going 2×9, would go 2×10 but the cost is bonkers considering I’m running SRAM X0 and KCNC kit as it is.

    I drew up a quick spreadsheet, and was thinking 26/38 x 11-34t.

    Has anyone done the same, by my reckoning I’ll lose the top two ratios for grannying it. Generally, I like to mash at a lower cadence than spin my legs off.

    Cheers chaps

    Ricks

    TandemJeremy
    Free Member

    lots of discussion on here about it. I use 22 / 36 chainrings but I like to sit and spin and do some fairly long climbs. that gives me gears from 2.5mph to 25 mph

    mboy
    Free Member

    You lose next to nothing in ratio terms, bit at the top and a bit at the bottom, but that’s it. Barely anything and you get less crossover ratios.

    But even better, as 10spd stuff is pretty cheap, sell your 9spd stuff on and buy the 10spd version and get slightly better range on the cassette… In fact, you’ll probably ditch your front mech and 2 chainrings and go 1×10 instead as it offers enough for most people for most situations.

    Northwind
    Full Member

    2×9 or 1×9 on all my bikes now, never missed the big ring except on fireroads. You could probably run 24/38 if you want a wider spread but that does make for slower shifts between the rings.

    rickon
    Free Member

    What about 24/36? That’d quicken up the shifts, I barely big ring anything here, as I’m in South Wales…

    Hmm…. food for thought indeed.

    I’ll have a look into going to 10sp and the cost involved too and weigh it up; problem is, I love my X0 kit, in 8 months of riding I’ve changed cables once, and they’re still smooth as silk.

    DT78
    Free Member

    Been using cheap steel 26 & 36 rings on my hardtail for a couple of years along with a 11/34 cassette that’s plenty of range. Other hardtail is 34 11/34 and can get round majority of stuff. Suffered by day 4 in wales and had to push some of the brechfa climbs

    muckytee
    Free Member

    I never used my 44t and wasn’t keen on its rock catching and flesh shredding ability, so went 2×9 I run 22/36 the 36 is used for pretty much all situations until I struggle and drop into the granny, a 24 or 26 might be better, 22 is too low to ‘push’ on the climbs?

    scoobmw
    Free Member

    I went 2×9 on both bikes pretty quickly just by taking off the big ring and using the 22/32 ones left.
    When the HT’s chainrings started wearing I just binned both and went to 1×9, upping the middle ring to 34t. I love the simplicity of the set up now – Doubt I’ll go back.

    mboy
    Free Member

    What about 24/36?

    Haven’t wanted bigger than a 36T ring on a Mountain bike in probably a decade or more. Even on road, you’ve got to be on either slick tyres, or have ridiculously powerful legs to push more than 36/11 for any time on the flat (DH just coast!).

    On a 9spd setup I found 24/36 with an 11-32 cassette ideal, both in terms of spread of ratios, and also shifting performance. Though if you went to 10spd with an 11-36, and a single ring, you get nearly the same spread of ratios with less hassle!

    jonahtonto
    Free Member

    for me its 26/36 with a 11-34 9speed on the back of my bouncy bike. nice and simple, 26 on the way up 36 on the way down. copes well with whytes etc which is local to me. on my hardtail i have a 32 up front, 11-34 out back- its my hack bike that i ride out from the house on and i live at the top of a long steep hill.
    please do not talk about gear ratios out in the real world, it will only re-enforce the idea that cycling is not cool 😉

    rickon
    Free Member

    Gear ratios are definitely only for typing, not uttering to other souls.

    dickie
    Free Member

    2×9 you’ll still need a front shifter & mech, so you’ll only loose one chainring – why bother?
    1×9 you’ll loose a mech, shifter & two rings, but need a chain guide.

    I’d either 1×9 or 3×9.

    Simon
    Full Member

    I’ve been 2×9 plus bash for years. Never used the big ring and it often got damaged on rocks.
    Started out with 22/32 but now both bikes are 24/36. Works well enough on my hardtail which gets used for trail riding and commuting.
    But on the heavier, bouncy bike I’m thinking of changing to 24/34 or even back to 22/32 as I find I use the granny more than I’d like as the 36 can be too big.

    yunki
    Free Member

    I’ve been 22/36 11-28 for the last few years but the stuff I’m riding has got much more technical.. so I changed to 22/32 11-32 last autumn which is much more suitable for the terrain that I ride..

    mindmap3
    Free Member

    I used to run 2×9 on all my trail / grown up bikes. Typically ran 22 / 32 with an 11-27 Ultegra block. This worked for most things other than really really steep climbs. It sometimes was too closely ratio’d for really long rides when you were absolutely dead and just wanted something easy to spin.

    On my DH bikes I haven’t felt the need for anything bigger than a 36 tooth ring for ages.

    My new bike will be 1×10 because my trusty (original X9 Sram as we know it) mech is knackered as are the cassettes in the bike box.

    Northwind
    Full Member

    dickie – Member

    2×9 you’ll still need a front shifter & mech, so you’ll only loose one chainring – why bother?

    More ground clearance, one less jaggy part to stick into your body. Possibly a trivial amount of weight loss. Raising the middle ring gearing means you’ll spend most of your time in there, improving the chainline. Less chain to flap around, which means better shifting and less dropped chains. And with almost no downside. So why not bother?

    njee20
    Free Member

    I liked 2×9 (28/40 with 11-34). Prefer 1×10. It’s what works for you though.

    muddyman
    Free Member

    since i went 2×9 with 36 / 24 up front i find i change gears less than i used to with the stnd 22 32 44 .
    i tend to sit on 4th from largest at rear and jump between front rings apart from the realy steepest climbs .
    still got plenty to play with when needed mind .
    dont miss the old leg ripper ring thats for sure !

    juan
    Free Member

    yes for about 8 years now, 22/32×11/34

    PJM1974
    Free Member

    My XC bike had 28/36 up front with an 11-32 cassette until very recently and I found it was a good combination. I never ran out of gears at either end. If I’m honest, the 28T granny was never really tested as my locale is all about long climbs, not short and steep technical hauls.

    My AM bike now has 22/36 up front which feels fine…winching a heavy bike definitely justifies a small granny ring.

    MulletusMaximus
    Free Member

    I’ve just change to 2×9 too with a 26/38 and 11-34. Can’t tell you what it’s like yet as I’ve not tried it. It’s my first ride with it tonight so I’ll report back later.

    lostboysaint
    Free Member

    Yes. 2×9 – 11-34 cassette, 27 and 39 tooth chainrings. Not a lot that I can’t climb and doesn’t frustrate me spinning out unless it’s on tarmac.

    clubber
    Free Member

    I’ve been on 2×9 for a while too.

    On a 26″ bike I was using 24/36 and 11-34 which was pretty spot on – it was certainly low and high enough for my riding.

    On my 29er I’m using 22/32 and 11-34 which is maybe a touch low – I’d consider going up to a 34 instead of the 32 but it’s not really so much of an issue that I’ll change before the 32 wears out.

    _tom_
    Free Member

    Haven’t had 3×9 for years, it’s either been 1×9, 2×9 or single speed for me. I only ever used the big one for roads, but I have a road bike for that now 🙂

    Jehosophat
    Free Member

    I bought an XTR M952 chainset with the less typical 26/38/48 setup with the intention of grinding the outer ring down to use as a back ring and running 2×9 with an 11-34.

    I have not yet bothered, for the simple reason that – running 22/34/44 and 12-32 – I tend to use all the gears on every ride and I’m pretty sure the lack of ratios would bug me – especially at the higher end on road sections. Only one way to find out, though…

    smell_it
    Free Member

    I’ve recently built up a second hand soul, it was a bit of a budget build with some parts bin 9 speed x9, with an 11-32 cassette. I bought an x7 10speed crank for it with 39-26. I’ve found it fine in the Peak and my localish stuff Rossendale way; I’ve never needed the granny much, I tend to think folk just use it as they have it, so didn’t miss it. I wondered if I would miss the big gears on road links, but as a roadie I tend to find these bits painfully slow anyway, so just tend to plod. I’m pretty happy with it, I guess if you were lacking in the guns department, you could pick up a cheap 12-36 deore 9speed cassette from crc.

    Paceman
    Free Member

    Switched to 2×9 22/32 & 11-34 three months ago with a lightweight bash. Never used the big ring anyway and the double/bash gives me loads more clearance for log hopping on my local woodland singletrack loops. Will probably give a 34 or 36 ring a go when the 32 needs replacing.

    MulletusMaximus
    Free Member

    First trip out tonight with my set up and I found the gearing prefect. A rolling route with a few sharp climbs. I spent most of the ride on the 38 ring except when it got a bit steeper. One climb was 17% and I never felt myself searching for more gears.

    Not using a bash BTW.

    jamj1974
    Full Member

    Just gone for your 26/38 and 11-34 option myself. Worked well last week over at Cannock, but need to try it out over steeper stuff like the Long Mynd or Peaks. Didn’t need any lower gears and had plenty of usable ratios for the flat on the inner chainring as well. May be slightly over-geared for Seven Stanes…

Viewing 29 posts - 1 through 29 (of 29 total)

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