Viewing 22 posts - 1 through 22 (of 22 total)
  • Gravity Dropper Classic vs Turbo
  • Stevo210
    Free Member

    I know there has been a lot of threads on this subject but…….
    Is the Turbo such a bonus over the Classic and does its benefits or function out way the ridiculous cable routing?

    As I see lots of Classics for sale with the reason for sale being that they’ve just got a Turbo.

    Junkyard
    Free Member

    which do you like the look of – buy that one
    the turbo seems to be slightly easier to move but the classic is still easier than changing gear
    I have a classic but have played with my mate sturbo when it was o his bike….not much difference tbh

    Stevo210
    Free Member

    You weren’t secretly wishing you had one then. Im having issues with the routing of the Turbo, but in my mind I somehow think thats the one I should have 🙁

    When you say easier to move, is it sprung differently or returns quicker?

    solamanda
    Free Member

    I’ve had a classic for 2 years, I find the operation is fine and don’t like the idea of a turbo model smacking my nut sack. With the GD there is nothing to control the return speed so it’s rocket ship fast, the classic forces you to sit on the seat as it rises so seems the best option to me.

    Stevo210
    Free Member

    the return speed so it’s rocket ship fast,

    thanks for that. I wondered how it would compare to the Turbo on the return. Im not fancying my bits been whacked either.
    The Turbo just returns like all other posts out there on the market, one trigger push and they raise.
    If it isn’t such a handy-cap then maybe the Classic is the one to go for.

    Any more thoughts?/experiences?

    Junkyard
    Free Member

    When you say easier to move, is it sprung differently or returns quicker?

    The classic pulls the pin out using the cable to actually pull it
    the turbo activates a Magnet?? which pulls the pin out so it is not quite as mechanical as the former.
    the difference is very slight IMHO
    I would own either – you cant have a dropper post and get worried about looks as for routing i swap mine between bikes so barely route it tbh zip tie it to a cable if I can be bothered

    grum
    Free Member

    I’ve got a Classic and tried a Turbo – the Turbo is a bit lighter, less bits sticking out, and less clunky in operation. If I was buying at full price I would probably get the turbo, as there’s only £20-30 in it, but my classic was on sale at about £165 and there’s no way it would have been worth the extra £60 odd to get the Turbo.

    BTW with my Classic I have to give it a tiny lift up with my thighs so that it will click to go down – not supposed to be like that I don’t think, but it’s not much of an issue really.

    crashtestmonkey
    Free Member

    grum, try fine tuning the tightness of the top collar. When I serviced mine I overtightened it on reinstallation and I assume it was effectively stopping the pin and holes lining up perfectly, 1/8th of a turn on the collar and it was back to normal.

    cumbrianmonkey
    Free Member

    Grum mine needs the “thigh grip” sometimes too. Not really an issue tho. After it’s been cleaned it doesn’t seem to need it but a couple of wet rides later it seems to revert back. I don’t care, it seems otherwise bomb proof, yeah it looks a bit like someone designed it in their lunch hour but it works very well.

    grum
    Free Member

    Thanks monkeys 🙂

    Will try playing with the collar.

    Davesport
    Full Member

    Slight thread hijack. Do Gravity dropper posts suffer from any rotational slop at the saddle. I.E. is there any wiggle at the top of the seat. I’d like one of the hydraulic ones but but they seem to be fraught with problems 😕

    TIA Dave.

    chiefgrooveguru
    Full Member

    The Classic has the magnetic actuation, hence the ‘tap’ needed to let the magnets pull the locking pin out. When you’re standing by the bike you can feel maybe 0.5mm of fore-aft slop, I’ve never noticed any rotational slop but I guess there’s a tiny amount. When I’m sitting on the saddle I can’t feel any movement at all.

    crashtestmonkey
    Free Member

    very very little rotational play. It has two gert shims that run in grooves to prevent rotation (original Joplins had one block running in one groove, Joplin 4s have 2 blocks in 2 grooves but they are smaller/shallower than the GD shims).

    Part 42 here

    cossyrush
    Free Member

    Whilst we’re on the topic of GD’s can I ask about people’s opinions about the multi v the standard.
    I ride with a KS on my spesh, but have just got a 2nd hand GD for my Dale, with the KS I can drop the seat a little for fast flowing ST, and then all the way for more difficult stuff, but it’s not so easy to get the seat a little way down first time so having a 1″ drop position sounds appealing.
    The GD I have is just a standard so it’s up or down, but I think I can create a multi drop by carefully drilling a hole in the GD in the position I want.
    Do people use the 1″ drop position much?

    Ben

    boriselbrus
    Free Member

    Do people use the 1″ drop position much?

    Yes, loads. Up for climbing, 1″ drop for singletrack, 4″ drop for descending. Perfect.

    chiefgrooveguru
    Full Member

    For anything bendy or downhill I ride with the GD all the way down, whilst for almost anything uphill or just covering ground on the flat I ride with the GD all the way up. I seem to reserve the 1″ drop for more techy climbing where I want to be mostly seated yet be able move about quite a lot.

    Northwind
    Full Member

    solamanda – Member

    I’ve had a classic for 2 years, I find the operation is fine and don’t like the idea of a turbo model smacking my nut sack. With the GD there is nothing to control the return speed so it’s rocket ship fast, the classic forces you to sit on the seat as it rises so seems the best option to me.

    Just doesn’t happen- if you’re concerned, you can sit on the seat to control the rise anyway, just exactly the same as you do with a Classic.

    Turbo is lighter and easier to operate, and easier to maintain too. Classic has slightly better cable routing but no other advantages.

    Stevo210
    Free Member

    Hey thanks for all your replies, just got in and catching up.
    Northwind, are you using a turbo multi? Seen a few posts where the multi’s have broken.

    crashtestmonkey
    Free Member

    +! for boriselbrus. Fully up for fireroad/climb, 1″ down for pumpy/techy/rolling/singletrack, fully down only for OMG proper steeps. Came from a joplin (enforced by change from 30.9 to 27.2 frame) and thought I’d miss the “infinite” adjustment, but my “mid” drops on the joplin equate to the 1″ drop on the GD and it spends more time in 1″ than fully down.

    It takes no more than careful drilling to convert to multi (some users stick other step holes in but you risk weakening the post).

    Mine’s a none-remote Descender multi drop so cant comment on choice of remote set-up, but having bought a GD out of Hobsons Choice (only easily available 27.2 at the time I bought) I am very pleased with it.

    chiefgrooveguru
    Full Member

    Interesting… I’ve tried the 1″ drop for singletrack but found I’m happier with the saddle fully out of the way. We’re all individuals innit?

    Northwind
    Full Member

    Stevo210 – Member

    Northwind, are you using a turbo multi? Seen a few posts where the multi’s have broken.

    Nah, I’ve got a multi tube for it but I never used it so I went back to standard. Definately not as strong as the standard tubes though (same in classic btw).

    Stevo210
    Free Member

    So there I was minding my own business online and before I knew it I had pressed order…..doh

    Turbo Multi winging its way…

    Will update soon.

Viewing 22 posts - 1 through 22 (of 22 total)

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