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Last year I bought a Surly Ice Cream Truck, to scratch a fatbike itch and found that I really loved it. This year's project is to see whether a lighter bike with similar geometry is actually any better.
In one of those wonderful moments of serendipity Canyon announced a two-day sale (with a £200 saving on the base model Dude) on the same weekend that I sold my Smuggler. Some things were just meant to be, so I bought the Dude and am in the process of replacing pretty much everything! In fact, all I'll keep are the frame, headset and drivetrain (with the latter being replaced as it wears out).
Anyway, enough preamble, I'm currently playing with routing options for the dropper, but am also wondering what to do about the rim strips on the wheels. I've got some orange tape on the way to match the orange details on the frame, but looking at it I think the black looks quite classy.
So, what do you think, nice bright orange rim strips (it's a clown bike after all) or understated black?
Black, looks really nice as it is. Orange will look hideous.
Grass needs cut and you definitely win the award for worst hoses.
Orange btw
Grass needs cut
I'll have you know I cut the grass last week. Not going to waste time doing it again until we start losing things in it!
I think I'd put a different saddle on it tbh
Orange/gold rim strip to match the frame highlights, IMO.
martymac - Member
I think I'd put a different saddle on it tbh
Gives new meaning to the term "internally routed" dropper post 😯
Orange.
Is the noose in case the indecision reaches the point of utter despair?
Keep wheels as they are get some matching fork stickers made up.
Nice rope swing.
rim strip - id match the grey.
Thanks folks. Seems to be a majority in favour of "make it loud" with just a couple of people showing any class 🙂
I do have a set of orange/black bluto stickers on the way from SilkGraphics and they'll definitely be going on.
If you can get the colour match on the cutaways close, I think it looks great. Mine is reasonably close but the yellow of my tape doesn't pop in quite the same way as the frame so it can look odd. Not perfect but I like it.
Like this:
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http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i264/Northwindlowlander/65997530-GT7272281of129_zpsux4r2scg.jp g"/> [/IMG][/URL]
rim strip - id match the grey.
Grey? How very dare you! That's Tundra Green. Not exactly exciting though, is it.
Of course, I matched the rim strips on the ICT and always liked that.
I think it's the two-colour frame that is giving me pause for thought. If the frame is all one colour then matching the rim strips seems the obvious choice. But with two colours it's not so clear. I think I'll probably still go orange. Not the tyres though, that's a step too far.
Orange rim tape and green spokey-dokeys?
Nice @steve_b77, but now I'm thinking I need orange cables too 👿
Best looking Fattie I've seen so far.
Well played sir.
Personally unless you cam match the orange exactly then I'd go for black. No point 'matching' with something that doesn't really match.
Of course as you have a fat bike your idea of pleasing aesthetics may be different from mine 🙂
Fat bikes aren't exactly subtle, so why tone it down.
So much this. Mountain bikes in any guise should be pimped out. The bigger the wheels get, the louder the bike should be.
I tend to think the opposite - if I want people to point at me I'd wear a clown suit.
I've an SDG falcon ti-alloy rail saddle in black and orange. Hardly used. Open to offers RP.
Sorry to say but I like the colour of the ICT more. I know I'm a bit Surly biased but purely talking colours here.
Kudos Rocketdog. Looks like you've used a picnic blanket to line the rims. Crazy bike needs crazy bits
I tend to think the opposite - if I want people to point at me I'd wear a clown suit.
Getting geared up for riding makes anyone look like a clown to start with. Embrace it, you know you want to 😉
Rocketdog
Which rim strips would you recommend for tubeless, apart from tartan? that may be the reason why my attempts failed.
Which rim strips would you recommend for tubeless, apart from tartan? that may be the reason why my attempts failed.
Anything you want plus some fattystrippers
OK, thanks for all the comments, job done. Needs better light to show it properly, but I'm happy enough with it. Just needs a few scratches, or at least some dirt, now.
I've an SDG falcon ti-alloy rail saddle in black and orange. Hardly used. Open to offers RP.
That would finish it off nicely. Don't suppose you fancy a part exchange for a brand new fabric scoop in black 🙂
Sorry to say but I like the colour of the ICT more. I know I'm a bit Surly biased but purely talking colours here.
I wouldn't disagree with you. I'd never have bought a light blue bike, but I grew to really like the look of the ICT. Especially against any sort of blue sky. There was something classy looking about those steel tubes. This Dude looks fine, but still a bit plastic looking to my eyes. Maybe that will improve with a bit of dirt though.
Which rim strips would you recommend for tubeless, apart from tartan? that may be the reason why my attempts failed.
I never had any problem setting up the BR710 rims tubeless with multiple layers of duck tape. This time I tried Duck tape for the rim strip, then a couple of layers of Tyvek tape, but it's too early to say whether that will hold.
Hmmm, now you've done it I think black is nicer 😉
Thanks but I'll skip on the part ex of the saddle. But if you are interested drop me a PM.
A fatbike should be mud coloured or have icicles hanging off it. 🙂
Hmmm, now you've done it I think black is nicer
😀
A fatbike should be mud coloured or have icicles hanging off it.
You're not wrong. It looks a bit like a toy at the moment, but I'll try and rectify that over the weekend.
But if you are interested drop me a PM.
Thanks. I may get back to you on that. I'd better ride it a bit first though. It's still possible that I'll find that I prefer the heavier ICT after all and I'll need to swap everything back 😮
40mpg - Member
Which rim strips would you recommend for tubeless, apart from tartan? that may be the reason why my attempts failed.
Anything you want plus some fattystrippers
I use 70mm wide electrical tape over anything. The tartan is just ribbon from hobby craft. Once up tubeless i use waterproofing spray to stp it getting saturated.
I found fatty strippers way to thin and delicate and a pain with all the trimming.
Don't think Magnolia rim strips would work. 🙂
Split tube & foam padding here.
[url= https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4181/34320966602_6ec7ba5dd8_k.jp g" target="_blank">https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4181/34320966602_6ec7ba5dd8_k.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/UhPVDu ]Puffin - just getting on with it. No colour matching here. Or tartan. :-)[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/takisawa2/ ]pten2106[/url], on Flickr
The rim tartan clashes nicely with my endurance racing kilt
A quick note for those that care about weight. I don't really, but the aim of the exercise was to see if the lighter Dude would work any better than the heavier ICT, so I thought I should at least make a token attempt at weighing stuff. All weights were done on the same digital bathroom scales (so pinch of salt time).
Surly ICT (bluto, reverb, 4.8" jumbo jim) = 35 lb
26" Orange Five (for reference) = 31 lb
Straight out of the box the Dude was 27.5 lb. OK, that's without pedals, but not bad for a £1,500 (large frame) fatbike.
I then replaced almost everything, often with heavier kit (carbon fork to Bluto, fixed seatpost to 150mm Reverb, 4" liteskin tyres to 4.4" snakeskin etc).
All up weight (ready to ride) = 31 lb
As I say, my scales aren't calibrated, so absolute weights may not be accurate, but I can say that the Dude weighs exactly the same (within 0.1 lb) as my 26" Five. I weighed them both multiple times to make sure (as it seemed a bit spooky), but they are exactly the same!
No worries on the saddle RP. It's there if you do want it. No problem either way.
I look forward to hearing your ride reports and how much of that weight saving changes the ride. But also if the weight loss also means any comfort sacrifice.
I've just weighed mine..29lb/13.1kg (bluto)
That's without the front mech and shifter, still got both chainrings on the front.
Got a direct mount 28t on the way.
Roverpig Which crankset are you using on yours?
Mine came with the Raceface Aeffect cranks, gxp BB and a 28T direct mount ring. I'll probably play about with that at some point, but it's good enough for now.
29lb is pretty impressive with a Bluto. I wonder where my extra 2lb comes from? Dropper? 4.4" snakeskin tyres? SLX cassette?
Maybe I've got some of them scales that giant trance's come up light on 😀
Dropper must be a 1lb?
The snake skins, are they not what came on it?
Hope brakes are a little heavier than shimano I think? But only a few grams..
Forgot I've got carbon bars, there 100g less than stock. And I've ditched the oneloc remote on the bluto, used an short length of brake cable and fixed the damper in the open position on the crown.
My rigid Puffin with some nice bits currently weighs 35lb
Currently looking at frame alternatives.
RP .... I think your build looks great as is.
If I can get the wheels to stay up tubeless should be able to get another pound off..
ChunkyMTB - Member
Best looking Fattie I've seen so far.Well played sir.
Mine? If so, many thanks
Sorry, I meant the OP's.....
Is this a dating site?
The snake skins, are they not what came on it?
Mine certainly came with the 4.0" Liteskin version of the JJs (now replaced with 4.4" Snakeskin). Yours may be different though, although it might explain why you are having trouble getting them to stay up tubeless 🙂 I see they now refer to snakeskin as tubeless easy, although I think the liteskin versions do seal eventually too.
I've never really been in to gram counting, but I can see how it could get addictive. Pouring over datasheets looking at shaving a few grams off here, a few more off there. I think I'll try to avoid going down that road though and just ride it whatever it weighs. It looks as though it's a couple of Kg lighter than the ICT but that doesn't mean it will feel any better when I'm riding it.
Thanks ChunkyMTB and letmetalktomark. I know it's all subjective, but it's nice to know that somebody thinks it looks OK.
Is this a dating site?
If it is, I want a "swipe-left" option 😀
Roverpig,
Is that a 11-42 on the back?
Can't make my mind up if a 11-46 would be better, if the jump from the 37t wasn't so big I wouldn't think twice..
rOcKeTdOg - Member
Is this a dating site?
If it is, you'd better wear a sporran with that kilt so you look like a manly man.
But no more than 2 tassels on the sporran, or folk will think you're boasting...
🙂
Is that a 11-42 on the back?
Yes, the base model comes with an 11-42 SLX cassette and a 28T chainring. Coming from the ICT with its 22x36 bottom gear I expected this to be too high and was already pricing up a 26T chainring before riding it. However, based on the first ride I think I'll wait a bit. It might have just been new bike exuberance but it seems to climb really well. A nice steep seat angle and an almost total lack of any flex around the bottom bracket really allow you to attack those hills. I'll need to try it on a long steep climb though. I may still be looking for a smaller gear when the going gets tough, but for now it seems pretty good.
I'd also be worried by that 37-46 jump. I reckon you could end up with a 2nd gear that isn't low enough but a 1st gear that is so low that you have to spin like crazy to stop falling over. But I've never ridden it, so could be wrong. You could try an 11-42 cassette then add a range expander (e.g. one-up), or a smaller chainring, if you find you need lower gears.
I know everyone has their own preference etc so I'm just being nosey really. But what psi dk you run RP? Also tubes or tubeless?
With rigid forks I tended to run 8psi in the rear and 6 psi in the front. With the Bluto I'm tending to run them both at 8psi. That's tubeless. Haven't run tubes in any mountain bikes for a few years now.
Following this with interest @roverpig as I also ride an ict and looking at other options.Did you notice the steeper head angle of the dude when descending.
St4n
Following this with interest @roverpig as I also ride an ict and looking at other options.Did you notice the steeper head angle of the dude when descending.
That's a tricky one. Partly as I've only had one 2.5 hour ride so far and new bikes always feel great, so it's often safest just to ignore your first impressions anyway.
If I've understood the geometry charts the difference in head angle is only half a degree, but then the top tube and wheelbase are a bit longer, the chainstays a bit shorter, the seat angle a bit steeper etc. Plus it's made of plastic of course. So quite a few small changes that all add up to a different feel.
Better or worse? Well, if you've read any of my previous bike related ramblings, you'll know that I struggle with applying those concepts to bikes. All bikes are brilliant. Fat, skinny, rigid, bouncy, heck you can even strap an engine and battery to it if you like. As long as you're not being a dick it's all good in my book.
Comparing the Dude to the ICT I think the main thing that I noticed was that the Dude seemed a bit more eager on the climbs. Coming back down I'd say that the longer top tube and wheelbase largely cancelled out any effect from the steeper head angle. It was perhaps a bit easier to chuck about (being over 10% lighter) but maybe it didn't quite feel as unstoppable. I suspect that's as much down to the extra weight and more flexible frame on the ICT as the head angle, but either way, the Dude doesn't feel quite as much of a monster truck.
So far, overall, I'd say they are both fun but in slightly different ways, but it's still early days. The Dude is certainly easier to carry though.
Thanks roverpig, yes see that now, the dude does seem to have a long front end to it.Bike looks great hope it proves to be good choice.
Agree that the ict does have that unstoppable feeling.Yes will keep following your ramblings as they make a good read.
Sizing on the Dude is a bit unusual, with quite a jump from Medium to Large. I was on a large ICT (with 50mm stem) and decided to stick with the large Dude, but with a 35mm stem (forward geometry for fatbikes 🙂 ). So far, so good, but it's early days.
I think I'd go Grey rimtape with a segment of orange in there too- maybe over the valve area.
I'd also get matching fork decals in grey and orange, plus a black saddle with orange highlights. Possibly some orange stem spacers and orange lock on collar grips too.
Another ICT driver here.
Certainly interested in seeing how it compares to the Dude.
Did you change the wheels from the Clown shoe to the BRxxx rims ?
If so how much of a difference was that ?
I am on the original clown shoes but tubeless.
Did you change the wheels from the Clown shoe to the BRxxx rims ?
If so how much of a difference was that ?
Kind of. I got the ICT following a demo ride on the stock bike, with clownshoe rims, Bud/Lou tyres and tubes. I had great fun on the demo and loved the geometry of the ICT but couldn't help thinking it would be better with lighter wheels. So, when I built my own from a frameset I went with the BR710 rims (on Hope Hubs), Jumbo Jim 4.8" tyres and set them up tubeless. I'd have to say that I much preferred that setup as it made the bike much more lively, but I'm not sure how much of that was down to the rims. I switched to a Bud/Lou (tubeless) setup over the winter and found that a lot slower, although the grip in the slop was amazing.
I'd also be worried by that 37-46 jump. I reckon you could end up with a 2nd gear that isn't low enough but a 1st gear that is so low that you have to spin like crazy to stop falling over.
I've gone for the 11-42 for that exact reason, just seems pointless . Pretty much like going from the 32 middle chainring to the granny ring!
Also ordered some of those Chester pedals.
I'll add a pic of my dude when's it's all on, as there's not enough dude pics on this thread.. 😀
Excellent. You can never have too many Dude pictures 🙂 I'll be interested to hear what you think of it when you hit the trails too.
I've been out on it a few times, went out with a local bunch who were all on full suspension.
I had no problems keeping up especially down hill..
It's great round loose twisty downhill trails, it drifts but never let go (so far).
I don't think it's any hardy than riding my 5.
Thinking a pair of 27.5+ wheels and 3.0 tyres will be fun to..
General local riding, mix of road, bridal path and woods I'm definitely quicker on the dude than my 5.
Somewhat so that I'm starting to dislike my 5 and can't help think it's a tank.
Maybe time to get rid of the frame, pretty sure tftuned can change the length of the CCDB Air shock if needs be.
Funnily enough, now I've sold the Smuggler, my only other off-road bike is also a Five! I doubt it will get much use this summer, now I've got the Dude, but I do still like it. After riding the fatbike it just feels comically small and bouncy and it can be fun to chuck it round the woods for a few hours. I also find that (now it's shod with a Magic Mary) it works better in the winter slop than the fatbike. Until it snows of course.
It's all personal preference of course, but I'd be wary of getting rid of the bouncy bike too soon as you might find that you fancy one again someday. I'm assuming it's an older (26") version like mine though and not worth much. If it's newer then probably best to get rid of it while it's still worth a few quid, which is basically what I did with the Smuggler.
My 5 is a 2014 27.5, built from scratch. XT 1x11, saint brakes, pike RCT3, CCDB Air CS, flows on Hope pro 2 EVO SP.
I do have another bouncy bike a 26er Anthem, so not all would be lost.
My 5 is a 2014 27.5, built from scratch. XT 1x11, saint brakes, pike RCT3, CCDB Air CS, flows on Hope pro 2 EVO SP.
Get it out the door while it's still worth something then 🙂
Managed to get out for an evening ride last night on more familiar trails. So, I'm starting to get a better feel for the differences between the Dude and the ICT. So far all the little changes seem to be working out as I'd hoped. Whether that's true or just confirmation bias remains to be seen (and it's still early days), but I'll take it for now. Of course PRs are tumbling all over the place, but that happens with every new bike I've ever bought, so we can't read too much into that.
The lower weight combined with the big rounded box section downtube certainly makes it easier to carry, which was one of the main motivators for the change.
The extra stiffness of the carbon frame (more than the reduced weight I suspect) makes it a bit more efficient on the climbs.
The head angle is a bit steeper, but the front centre and wheelbase are longer. Combined with a short (35mm) stem and wide (780mm) bars it seems to give just as much confidence on the descents while being a bit easier to hustle through twisty sections.
You do lose some of that tank quality of the ICT though. The slacker head angle (larger trail), more flexible frame and extra weight of the ICT means that once you get it up to speed there is very little that will stop it. There is also something pleasing and "honest" about the steel frame of the ICT. You never feel like you need to be careful with it. Chuck it in the car, chuck it down the trails and chuck it in the shed, it will just keep on truckin'.
Overall I'm happy (so far) with the switch, but would have been just as happy keeping the ICT I suspect. But new bikes are always fun and after selling the Smuggler (due to lack of use) I had to spend the money on something didn't I 😀
Missed the recent updates on this, but orange rim strips, morning win \o/
Do love that "fatrol" colour scheme though, if I could turn back time, I would happily buy a rigid fork Dude instead of the Wazoo and all the extras I've bought for it (although I do like the versatility of a relative cheap 135/170mm FatNotFat 29er wheelset).
I think that's a common theme amongst fatbikerists: you buy something cheap because you are not sure if you'll like it, then spend so much upgrading it that you could have just bought something more fancy in the first place. On the other hand, there are plenty of folk who buy a nice fatbike, barely ride it, then have to sell it on at a big loss. So, you can't win 🙂
If my maths is correct I've managed to shave off 645grams, all weighed on my kitchen digital scales.
Swapped:
Stock bars 300g - Easton carbon 200g. -100g
wellgo B25 pedals 473g - RF Chester's 357g. -116g
Xt 10spd R derailleur 263g - XT 11 spd 273g. +10g
HG81 10spd cassette 360g - XT 11spd 11-42 436g. +76g
SLX 10spd R shifter 140g - XT 11 spd 112g. -28g
KMC 10spd chain 255g - XT 11spd 264g with no links removed, assuming the same weight when split.
Removed:
Oneloc remote/cable 74g
Front XT derailleur/hanger 163g
Front XT shifter/cable 170g
Still waiting for the single E-thirteen chain ring (60g) to arrive to get rid of the spider 22/36 rings approx 140g. Assuming 80g here.
I'm not a weight weenie, was just curious how much weight was saved and how light a carbon Fatbike could be.
Should he able to save another 5-600g going tubeless with the fatty strippers
Very nice. It would look better with a bit of mud on it though.
I see you went for the black rim strips, so you obviously have more class than me 🙂
Thanks to NormalMan of this parish, I've now added a black and orange saddle to mine and I've got an orange 26T chainring on the way. I think I may have gone too far with the orange now 🙂
There the stock rims strips, I'm still wondering if I need to change them when these fattystrippers turn up with the postman... That sounds kinda wrong! 😀
What's your chainline like? I notice with the 11sp cassette the chain makes a bit of noise when it's on the 11th sprocket, it looks like it rubs on the 13th sprocket next to it.
Chainline seems to be fine on mine, but I don't spend much time down in the little sprockets (hence the 26T on order). I had a go at measuring it and got something like 77mm. Mine uses a Raceface Aeffect crank with (I think) the shorter spindle and a Direct Mount ring, but flipped so that it sits a bit further out than it would if it were the right way round.













