I have the supernova E3 triple on the commuter ... at walking pace it pulses the single light. As soon as you ride, the single light goes solid and is enough to see by at slow speed, but all 3 kick in pretty quickly as soon as you gain any speed whatsoever. Stand light is nothing other than a be-seen light. I'd be interested to see just how quickly the exposure comes on solid.
I started off buying a Supernova E3 triple, as it was supposed to be so much better than anything else, but quickly sold it as no cop for the techy, twisty riding I wanted to do at night that involved wanting a bright, flicker free light, when travelling at low speed, that lasted more than a few seconds. The Exposure light does just that, dropping to a minimum of 400lumens when you're going really slowly (i.e. almost stationary) through nadgery sections and then the brightness starts to pick up as soon as you start moving again.
If you've not ridden it for a few days, you'll need to ride to the end of the road, or the car park to bring it to life, but that's much easier than faffing around plugging it into the mains and waiting 12hrs for a battery to charge!
My Exposure Revo just took me, off road, through over 800miles of techy off road in Aidan Harding's EWE race, riding in darkness at the start and end of each day and at the other end of the scale has been a regular on mid week thrashes in the woods as well as my daily commute to and from work, both on and off road depending on how the mood takes me.
The E3 however, flickered at low speed and had a standlight that barely lit the far end of the front tyre within 5 seconds. Both totally unacceptable off road.
The only thing about the claims of lumens is that aren't the standard dynamos limited power output at the moment ? 3W at 6V can only give so much power to the light unit ... i've read that taking all the efficiencies out of the supply and lights doesn't leave enough to be able to give 800 lumens? ( more like 450 ish )
Unless the exposure one is a bespoke dynamo supplying more power, or the light has better efficiency leds???
Not wanting to be rude, but the full answer to this isn't very exciting, and if you're asking that question then you probably won't be familiar with either the electronics knowledge or the way the legislation defines dynamo lights to get to the end of the answer without asking a dozen more questions or, more likely, just falling asleep! In a nutshell, the legislation was written around city commuter riding speeds and assumed a plain incandescent bulb (now superseded by the halogen bulb). The way an LED operates is not the same and allows any standard dynamo hub to produce way more power than the 3W classification of a dynamo hub, assuming you;re riding at more than walking speed, the faster you go, the greater the maximum available power from the hub you light can draw upon.
The hubs supplied by Exposure for use with their lights, are not only lighter and more efficient than thir SON equivalent (comparing the 3W hub with a 6-bolt flange to the SON equivalent, not the 2.4W hub with the centrelock spline, as SON have done, naughty boys!), but I know that this hub has been durability tested at these higher powers, with the latest generation of lights in mind, something worth noting when choosing your hub
Oh, and as you'd expect, a company like Exposure have measurement equipment to check light output. When I took my 800lm Revo dynamo light out with a friend's 1000lm ebay light, the Revo was waaaaaay brighter. Subjectively, it compares to my old MaXx-D light on full when on the trail. Please check your facts more thoroughly, perhaps use a demo light, or just as for clarification, before suggesting that the light might only be producing a fraction of the quoted, tested and verified output and badmouthing on a very popular forum what is potentially a great a new product trying to overcome a lot of outdated negative image based on old fashioned, incomparable technology
Having said that, I will concede comparisons to older dynamo technologies are inevitable, with the lazy suggesting things such as; heavy, draggy, no light at low speed, flickery, turns off when you stop. however, this is like comparing a Six-Pack to an Eveready Nightrider D-Cell battery light!
Bez The Mk1 production light I have been using for a while now is smaller and lighter than the prototype sample I think you have seen (plus the main beam is brighter and the standlight brighter and lasts longer too!) but no switch that I know of at the moment, however, I'm sure you're a clever guy you could easily put an on/off switch in the power line from the hub to switch between full power and standlight power, which is approximatelyy half brightness, to "dip" your light (but no beam pattern change) for oncoming traffic?
I hope that was, in some way, useful to at least some of the questions on this thread?