Ah, lovely outcome 🙂

Not yet, not seen any cake.

Don’t drop it when you open it up on it’s return.

I’ll drop you an email, thanks very much.
Drac, no danger!

I dunno you’ve even dropped your email.

Don’t drop when you open it up on it’s return.

I’m sure the PF delivery people will have handled it with reverence – no chance of them slinging it in the van.

I’m curious though, what mechanism is it that makes a TR (which consists of a spring and other fixed mechanical bits) go out of calibration if you drop it? I can’t see anything obvious which is likely to adjust when doing that.

I own a couple which have never been calibrated – will try the ghetto calibration method suggested above and see how they are (would be interesting if a few of us can report back).

The type 2 tools – setting type are a little hardier than the type one type which have a indicating dial on them. On pretty much every site I visit, torque tools are calibrated every three months 😯 Most sites expect the user to check them before they use them.

Replied to your email Chris.

I’ve mentioned this on one or two threads before, sorry for being boring; set the torque wrench, do three practice “clicks” on a spare fastener mounted in a vice, then do the real thing

Reminds me, I really should bring mine into work to check it…

Can’t imagine those China brand torque wrenches are ever calibrated in the first place

What does that mean about these types that get delivered with bikes?

I got one of those Superstar PSA ones and it came with a genuine looking calibration certificate..

sorry you lost me tinas when you started trying to tell me a tube has a torque limit.

same with handlebars with torque limits – its bullshit and you know that.

it has a limit on clamping force – that doesnt equal a torque.

its an arbitary number.

That was actualy exactly my point. Unless you’ve sat down and done a load of maths, tightening your stem to the correct torque for the bolts it fairly pointless, you’ll crush the bars first.

Same with a front mech clamp, if you torqued it upto 75% of the breaking strain of the bolt (or more likley, the alloy clamp on a higher end mech), you’d probably crush the seatube, ditto the carbon handlebars, steerer. The recomended torque printed on them makes a whole host of assumptions, unless you know what they were, does it really matter how accurate your torque wrench is? It’s probably not the least accurate part of the procedure!

A massive thumbs up for Lee who has checked it for me and returned it with a nice certificate showing the scale values against the true values. Thanks.

So, was it out of calibration/ has he adjusted it for you??

and did you send him cake?