The cone is specific to that headset as it helps seal. You could try a top cap from any 1.5″ headset or ditch it all together and risk the bearings, just use a thin spacer to compress the split ring. Take a look at the top cap from a hope 1.5″ headset as they should be available separately.

Qwerty Cycles should be able to help you out on a “specific” one, there’s loads available on ebay from Chinese carbon ones to generic FSA etc and Slam That Stem will have the thinnest, albeit likely with reduced sealing. It doesn’t bother me if Cannondale bearings are exposed (the lower is anyway) as they are fairly meaty and cheap/ easy to replace. Just pack them full of grease when new and they’ll last well.

Question on the Lefty ‘Lockout’.

I can feel a difference in that the damping feels much firmer when ‘locked’, but it is nothing like a full lockout.

Does that match other’s experience? Or do you get a full lockout?

Thanks.

Not a full lockout, just much firmer.

OK, cool, thanks Eddie.

On that subject. Which button locks out and which unlocks? On mine it seems more plush with the rebound adjuster pushed down. Is that right?

Rebound adjuster pushed down= unlocked

Grand, ta!

Has anyone fitted a stealth dropper post to there cannondale trigger 4. Firstly is it compatible to have a stealth seat post and also what is the best value/ reliable for the money. Cheers in advance

Reverb Stealth fitted to my Trigger 4, the hose exits the the seat tube and enters the down tube below the lower shock mounting.

Any recommendations on pressures for the negative and positive chambers. I have been running at the recommended for settings for 80kg ,but seems very stiff .
Or this just a case of “time to bed in”

I think quite a few run at the setting below recommended for a slightly plusher ride.

Start by setting the reccommended negative and positve spring pressure and then add or subtract positive pressure until you get to 30-percent sag on the indicator. Next, add negative spring pressure until it sags to 35 percent. That is how the bike worked best for us. If you are bottoming out a lot, but you like the way the shock works, then add pressure evenly in both chambers until you only bottom once in a while each ride. Use Negative pressure to set ride height, similar to how you would normallly use low-speed compression.

What have you guys done to get round the fact there’s a very limited amount of 1.5″ stem types. Is there a simple and effective way to reduce to 1 1/8 which seems to be a much more common size cheers

I got lucky and found a 45mm/1.5″ Thomson Elite X4 on ebay for £35.

This is a good reminder that I need to redo the stealth routing on mine, I didn’t see the little hole under the shock so it goes external after exiting the seat tube. God knows how you make it come out of the hole by the headtube though.

Was at BPW on Friday, have done a few days there on hardtails and this Trigger 4 felt incredible in comparison. Still bog standard too bar the stem, dropper and Hans Dampfs.

Just a quick query on the trigger. I’ve set mine up with less sag than recommended (just under 30%) as I think if you’re over 100kgs like me you’ll blow through the travel way too easily, the recommended pressures for my weight give 35% sag but I’m using almost all the travel on even little drops and so on. I’ve done this by using the recommended + pressure but far less than recommended in the – side, based on this shock balancing each chamber to work as it should, will this approach damage the shock do you think?
It seemed to work fine on my ride today BTW.

What have you guys done to get round the fact there’s a very limited amount of 1.5″ stem types. Is there a simple and effective way to reduce to 1 1/8 which seems to be a much more common size cheers

Unless you have a shrink ray the only thing you can do is change the forks and headset to taper ones.

Jools I set mine up using the one step less pressure than recommended as I wasn’t getting nearly through the travel. Still have plenty left over. Fork is also slightly softer. I kept both + and – as per the chart. I’d suggest you just keep moving up till you are happy, but with the same ratio. Pretty sure the +- need to be fairly balanced for the shock to perform as designed, though fine tuning one away from the other in small increments is probably fine. Also fairly sure that you won’t need as much +ve pressure if you set the -ve higher too and the suspension will have the designed Spring curve.

Any thoughts on whether this chain guide should fit? I’m a little confused by the adapters required for differing BBs. Any thoughts?
chain guide

If it’s like my 2015 Jekyll it will fit as its ICG03.

BTW my new LIght Bicycle Wheels arrived at the sort office on Friday and I got the letter today. They’ll be in my hands tomorrow. Must order a Butcher and Slaughter. Weeeeee!

Making my first mod to the bike. Changing to 1 x 10. Hand forced by being a numpty and stripping the thread off the left hand crank when swapping pedals. Looked like the pedal was threading fine when it seemed to stick so used a bit of brute force and a few moments later it was knackered – thread on the pedal was fine though! Could’ve just replaced the crank but thought I may as well make the move.

Will convert the rest to 11 speed once I’ve got summer hols out of the way.

Thinking of selling my cannondale trigger 4. Small modification include two new tyres maxxis high roller 2s mudhugger race front mudguard one up component narrow wide chainring. In excellent condition. Has small amount of wear which can be expected. How much do you guys this I should realistically be asking for the bike? Cheers

Would anyone with a 27.5 large Trigger be able to do me a favour? Unhelpfully I fall between medium and large sizes, and Cannondale are inconsiderate in not making a medium-and-a-half frame.

I’m happy to go ‘large’ for the length, and with a ‘normal’ seatpost this would be fine. However, I’m concerned that a dropper post with all it’s gubbins won’t quite go low enough for me.

Could somebody stick their post down as far as it will go, and with the dropper fully extended measure the saddle-rail-to-bottom-bracket-centre distance for me?

Thanks!

Well I’ve ordered the 77 designz oval guide…£42 for something tiny weighing 17g. Ooof. I must be a mug. Anyway, I’ll update when it arrives. Am hoping it will fit. :-/

If it doesn’t Ashy I’ll buy it off you as it will fit my Jekyll.

Well according to the tracking its on its way to Sweden…not a good start. Eddiebaby, I’ll get in touch if it doesn’t fit.

Swainy90 what size is it mate ? Wouldn’t be small would it ? Please ?

Hi slider unfortunately it’s a medium aha sorry mate. I am
Only 5ft9 and feels perfect for me. Too big mate?

Quick one – how do you remove the front mech on a Trigger 4?

Just one allen key and break the chain?

There is a lot more going on down there than I’m used to on my ht.

I think It was 3 bolts, but yes it is easy and obvious. And I think my chain had a quicklink on it. Mine is a Jekyll not a Trigger but the same deal basically..

3 bolts? I can feel the anxiety building up already.

Ta

What have people done about their brakes when moving to a single chainring? The bracket is there for the trigger lever, which ideally I’d like to remove (will look better!). Is it possible to get this a replacement part?

Ive left it on had forgoten it was even there had to go and check to see if id done anything.
The rear shock has gone and sagged half way through its travel and gobbed oil out of the neg chamber today. Looks like its off to mojo come tuesday.

What have people done about their brakes when moving to a single chainring? The bracket is there for the trigger lever, which ideally I’d like to remove (will look better!). Is it possible to get this a replacement part?

I cut/filed/smoothed/primed/painted the bracket thingy off my Jekyll’s Magura’s when I went 1x.
Magura parts (if thats what are on yours) are far cheaper from the .DE places if you dont want the faff.

Is anyone able to shed some light on the bottom bracket replacement for the cannonade trigger 4? Press fits confuse me 🙁

Thanks, yes they’re Magura. I could leave it on, although I’ve twisted the dropper remote round so would prefer the bracket gone to make sure there’s no obstruction.

Here we go, clamp for brake.

They are cheaper in Germany, but with delivery the difference is marginal.

Before I go the whole hog and move to 11 speed… Can a SRAM X9 med cage rear mech that came on the bike cope with 1×10 and a 42T largest sprocket (range 11-42)?

Flowerman, trigger 4 BB is BB30, you can either get a normal BB30 bottom bracket and use 24mm adaptors or get a conversion bottom bracket like a praxis works. I have a praxis works one and it has been faultless. This is all unless you want to up grade to BB30 cranks, you can just get a normal BB30 BB in that case.