That's not gonna be less than 25 that one at a guess?

Spreadsheet says just over 23lbs but I've not weighed the bike at the spec it is now. Wouldn't be surprised if it was really more like 24-25lbs though.

It's about as light as is reasonable and without spending a lot more cash. As it is it has mostly XTR drivetrain and brakes (XT cassette and LX front mech), Hope XC/317 wheels, carbon 'post and bars, SID Team forks, a sub 200g saddle and light (400g) Continental Speed King Supersonic tyres. Most of those were 2nd hand and therefore not too expensive. I'm very happy with the bike in its current form and have no plans to change anything – except possibly switching the tyres to 1.8 Fire XC Pro's for the winter.

It's a lot lighter than the original spec (it was a 2005 base model V-braked bike) but also rides way, way better than it did then.

I could lose twice that weight from my own bodyweight and still be regarded as overweight, but despite that I do find that a saving of 3 or 4 pounds of the weight of the bike has a significant impact when climbing, much more so than a similar saving in bodyweight.

I have just discover that 13kg =30 lbs:'(

I always thought 30 lbs = 15kg…

How well I just have an heavy bike then… For what I care… It goes up at reasonnable pace and down even quicker.

And for all the people that spend hours browsing spreadsheets, online shop lbs etc etc etc to be able to get their bike lighter "so they can ride for longer" just a tip…
So doing it and ride the **** damn thing 😉

My Santa Cruz Jackal with a good stong build comes in at 28lb which feels great on a 4x track or dirt jumps. And my Lapierre Froggy is 34lb which I think is good going for a 7" travel frame and feels perfect, I would not want to go much lighter.

Most of the weight saved on the builds is from the wheels and tyres.

The lightweight FS bikes on here are seriously expensive bits of kit, it's as simple as that!

The 3 that come to mind are Dougal's MSC, aracer's Scott and my Epic. All three are significantly >£5000 worth. That's how you get a light FS bike!

Yes sorry Steve, that's going to be a fair chunk more than 23, that's an early Epic frame, 03-04, and that itself weighed a lot, the wheels are heavy. Add at least 10% to any spreadsheet weight!

Bike weights are advertised without pedals.

Aye, and even 4ti Eggbeaters are 165g, which is over 1/3 lb. XTR pedals are pretty much double that.

Yes sorry Steve, that's going to be a fair chunk more than 23, that's an early Epic frame, 03-04, and that itself weighed a lot, the wheels are heavy. Add at least 10% to any spreadsheet weight!

It's a 2003. I wouldn't be at all surprised if it is around 25lbs or so – in fact for the type of general riding I do that's probably about the best weight for it. Based on previous experience with hardtails I've tended to find them quite skittish if they're down into the low 20's.

The weight weenies/spreadsheet weights are only really useful for comparison between components in my experience. For full bike weights they seem to give an optomistic value.

Yes WW is a good resource for that certainly, although a lot of the listings are now really out of date, seems fewer and fewer people are uploading things these days.

Agree light bikes do get very skittish, planted is not a word I'd use to describe my Epic, which is why it wouldn't be my choice for 'normal' trail riding in an ideal world. Great race bike though!

Rusty – even if it's the newer lighter frame, that sounds superlight for a jackal (or is it singlespeed?).
if you're using light tyres and rims on a 7" travel bike you're kidding yourself that you need anywhere near 7" travel.
just IMO of course 😉

Yeah I though the Froggy was meant to be about 38lb – 4lbs off is a fair old chunk for a 'freeride' bike.

Wow, nice hybrid. That must make short work of your commute. 😉

In answer to how much that weighs I'd guess at 21-22lbs.

I'd say lighter. My CX bike is about 22-23lbs and that has nothing fancy on it at all. That thing has the look of a proper spastic Bambi.

It was informed by the fact he was shocked at FS bikes being the same weight!

To be honest a dark photo makes it virtually impossible to tell anyway! It appears to have FSA wheels, which are rather porky for a start!

My 456SE is over 30lbs easily.
My Heckler is 35lbs easily with an air shock.
My Scott Octane is 32lbs.
My Fisher is 25lbs.
My roadbike should be around 25lbs one day but is 30lbs.
Why bother with scales, us common sense!

In the midst of a very quiet afternoon at work I googled the weights of each of the components of my Marin Rock Springs and input them into an Excel spreadsheet. I managed to get within a few ounces of the 34lb published weight and then made the necessary adjustments for the upgrades I've fitted since… The results were somewhat shocking.

Despite replacing the fork, cranks, seatpost, tyres, saddle and shifters I have only managed to lose 1lb from the all up weight!

Then I decided to stop being so anal about how much my bike weighs, man up and lose fomr pounds from me instead.

within a few ounces of the 34lb published weight

Which will also be very optimistic 🙂

Which will also be very optimistic

My thoughts exactly! I was surprised to get so close.

It was slightly depressing to realise my preferred Crank Bros Mallets cost me nearly a lb over the Candy pedals the bike was shipped with.

Aye, adds up very quickly.

kimbers where is that woodwork trail in your 3rd picture?

richc its chicksands

My Spec' SX Trail 1 is about 37-40Lbs, still 'rideable' on day though

The lust for lightweight is frustrating, best place to loose weight from is your wheels and tyres, the most important parts of your bike are? yep you guessed it tyres (the bits that enable you to accelerate, brake and turn) and wheels (too light and weedy = walk home)
Grrr!

if you want a lightweight bike you have to care about 5grams, I like Tazzy's cake analogy.

I guess people want to lose weight from their bikes instead of themselves coz it's instant gratification something our society is keen on nowadays. Plus it's easy to identify, if you ride a 35lb bike and someone hands you a 25lber you'll see/feel the difference right away. Slowly losing weight and getting into shape is harder to notice, (unless you time yourself and stuff) the changes are so slow and gradual.

(none of my bikes are light)

If you have an un-flashy heavy bike, and ride as much as someone with a light one, you will be a) fitter, and b) richer. I don't see what's not to like, to be honest.

mmmmm, a set of fishing scales has just landed on my desk to weigh this weekends new bike build when its done…. Been trying to get my mate Lard's weight off him to work out his % on his 27/8lb full susser but he is being very coy about it… 🙂

GW – When I say light I don't mean XC only light as I still want to keep the strenth.

Yes that is the new Jackel frame, runing with SLK through out, sunline V1 bars, stems and pedals. Mavic ST wheels with 2.1 High rollers.

The wheels on the Lapierre are Mavix SX's so light but very strong.

My Yeti 575 08 complete with pedals weighed on Ultimate digital scales came in at just under 25lb (picture of proof if required) and my Merlin Oreas came in at 21.3lb again with pedals. As I work in the industry I didn't mind spending any money on them either and as it was my dosh, I don't care what any of the moaners on here say. The 575 was brilliant at climbing at that weight but bloody horrible with side winds – maybe more to do with rider size and bike shape though lol. The Merlin was incredible nimble in singletrack and of all the bikes I've ever owned I would say is in the top two for sheer fun and how good it was.

Contrary to the opinion that manufacturers weights are hopefully optimistic thats not true of all components.In my experience,Schwalbe tyres have been to the quoted weight to the nearest 5g,Shimano weights are noramlly pretty accurate too.

My RS Reba forks were only 5 g over what RS claim.

Wheels however seem never to be light as I think/want them to be,must be the weight of stuff like rim tape and spoke nipples I forget……..

Saddles though,in my experience do tend to be lardier than advertised.

Agree weight off tyres and wheels is noticeable,other components less so,but if you think of all the individual components that make up a bike and the cumulative effect of all those 10g savings it begins to add up.

When doing a spread sheet tally I wonder how many people forget cables,hoses,rotor bolts,fluids,little bits like their computer,bottle cage mounts,etc?

Very often these add up to 1lb.

Quoted weights tend to forget pedals too.Thats another 1/2 to 1 lb……….

mtbmatt – Member

My 6" bike is 28lbs

Oh, that's with a huge front tyre, lock-on's and heavy Hope Tech M4's

Quite possible, although I'm guessing a very light frame, like an Ibis.[/quote]

S-Works Enduro Carbon in Large actually 🙂

I could get it down to 26lb I reckon, if I replaced the huuuuge Fire FR front tyre, added some cabon bars, changed the grips and changed the CB Mallets. I wouldn't want to do that though – I have it built exactly how I want it. (my wheelset does only weigh 3.5lb (1590g) though)

As for the body weight v bike weight – speaking from personal experience, having just lost 21lb from me and 6lb from the bike, I can honestly say the bike makes more difference, although a lot of the benefit will come from the wheels.

When doing a spread sheet tally I wonder how many people forget cables,hoses,rotor bolts,fluids,little bits like their computer,bottle cage mounts,etc?

*Raises hand*

Me sir! I include the weight of cables and bolts… I had to, I was a few ounces shy of 34lb according to my spreadsheet.

With me, a lot of it is wishful and subjective thinking:
My singlespeeded maxlight hardtail feels waaaaay faster than my x9 geared nrs/xtc team if i use the same wheels and tyres but take 3 litres of water in a camelbak with me. Clearly the whole package (bike plus rider plus kit) weighs a bit more due to 3kg of water and a big all-day pack to hold it in, the rotating weight is the same (same wheels and tyres) and yet I still feel like the bike is lighter and I am faster. That cannot be actually be right though?

Lord knows what either bike actually weighs!

I can hold something between about 50g and 500g in my hand and reliably guess its weight to within 20g (any nurse will identify with this, when you have weighed thousands of pee bottles for peoples' fluid balance charts you get used to it!), but for big things I wouldn't have the foggiest. All i know is that I have light, not so light, heavy and 'of course its heavy its got 66's on it' bikes…

I worked the weight out of my bike one day on a spreadsheet. I knew the weights of most of the parts which i had weighed but bigger bits like the frame i didn't.

When i hung it on the scale the weight difference between the spreadsheet and the scale's (Alpine digital extreme's) was 10 grams…

There's a few bikes on here like Dougal's and Njee's which i would totally agree with in regards to the weights but some of these claims are mighty big claims.

My bike is 21.7lbs for a XC full suss racer and i know that for a fact. It's not overally bling if you ask me just carefully selected parts.

25lb (weighed on those digital luggage scales things) Marin Rift Zone (2005). Was 29lb, but lost a lot of weight changing the saddle (original one was 500g!), wheels, pedals, going tubeless, foam grips (good 100g saved there!), brakes. Cost about £900 to lose that 4lb though – £400 wheels, £250 on the brakes…

Wheels/tubleless/lighter tyres were the biggest saving.

In terms of ride – much more "snappy" under acceleration, but apart from that didn't feel much different.

My bike is 21.7lbs for a XC full suss racer

Including pedals? You can join the <22lb full sus club (along with njee, dougal and me) if so – welcome! What is it?

I agree it is possible to do with a spreadsheet – mine was similarly close – however as mentioned people tend to forget things, that or use dodgy manufacturers weights. Yes some manufacturers are good – it's a lot better than it was – however some are still very optimistic (stand up and take a bow, FSA). Meanwhile it's makers of complete bikes who still tend to be the worst.

njee20 – Member
It was informed by the fact he was shocked at FS bikes being the same weight!

To be honest a dark photo makes it virtually impossible to tell anyway! It appears to have FSA wheels, which are rather porky for a start!

Correct sir, those wheels are indeed 'porky', 820g for the front, 1030g for the rear, 130g for the skewers, 130g for each tube & 330g for each (320 +340) tyre, pork rating of 1900g for the wheels (minus cassette & lockring).
But they roll real fast, I can kind of compensate for gayards, and I can ride it off road too.

It's changed a bit from 2 years ago, for the better as far as I can tell…

😉

Julian Absalon only uses 3 bolts on his chain rings

I think you mean rotors. Rotors make sense as lots of folk do it, as each is still loaded evenly. Chainrings would be silly, as you would be left with 1/4 of a chainring unsupported. Certainly every photo I've ever seen of his cranksets (XX currently) have all four chainring bolts present.

however some are still very optimistic (stand up and take a bow, FSA)

I find FSA are quite accurate. Within a few grams of (or bang on) claimed for K-force seatposts, bars and OS99 stem.

Selle Italia make bold claims and even put the claimed weights on the saddles. Never had one on weight or under.

Reasonably accurate weights…

44lbs

Action shot as only photo I have of its current spec…

Steel frame, saint cranks and air 66s but very light wheelset and other components make it just inside 30lbs

28lbs

aracer – yes that's with pedals.

I dare say our opinions of bling probably differ vastly though.

Tazer is 34lbs (sure I could go a lot lighter but I'm pretty happy with my weighty lowered Marz 55s up front – also just fitted new wider tyres). Makes my ratio almost 27% 😯 . Must admit I was surprised as my Coiler and Bullit were only just over that but it does everything I want it to . . . very well . . . so why worry.