Viewing 40 posts - 401 through 440 (of 564 total)
  • Banshee Spitfire
  • oldtalent
    Free Member

    Looks like Tidworth from that picture?

    tymbian
    Free Member

    Looks mint..
    Aston hill?

    momo
    Full Member

    No, that’s the downhill mecca known as Sherwood Pines!

    v666ern
    Free Member

    couple of quick questions as looking at a 2016 frame

    thoughts on ccdb vs the monarch – im inclined to head towards the monarch as dont like fiddling (current is a float x)

    Have a set of talas 36’s so looking at chaiing them to floats but should i go for 150 or 160?

    riding is FOD off piste – nothing over gnar

    Last one, would you invisiframe the black ones…my bikecarrier has rubbed away my raw ali on my current bike

    cheers

    teethgrinder
    Full Member

    1 – CCDB – once sorted you leave it alone. I have a coil DB and an AirCS DB. I don’t even use the CS on the Air.

    2 – 160mm. Had 150mm Pikes, went to 160mm and it’s loads better. Gives a little slacker HA and a bit more clearance for the crank/rock interfaces (I went to 170mm for the 2016 frame over the 175mm on my 2015)

    3 – Everything is gnar on a Spitfire. Even the ups.

    4 – No Invisiframe on a black ano. As it’s burnished (~99% of the surface, other 1% is the graphics) I don’t think it’ll stick well, will look shit, and it’s a very tough finish. I use black 1″ Gorilla tape on the head tube, top of the down tube and the brace between the chain and seat stays to protect from cable rub. Also a few wraps of black gaffer tape on the down tube where the Thule carrier clamps the frame.

    v666ern
    Free Member

    Thanks TG – as usual the hive mind is correct, i checked the invisiframe website and listed under the spitfire is

    This product is NOT suitable for frames with an anodized finish.

    Hmm still not sure on the CCDB as they are
    Monarch = £1200
    CCDB = £1400

    are they £200 better/im a cr@p rider would i notice!

    momo
    Full Member

    Is it the CCDB or CCDBInline? If the full CCDB then yes, definitely worth the extra, the inline not so much!

    I have the inline on mine and while it’s a good shock when working it does take a bit of setting up. Also, the while working thing is not a joke, I’m trying to work out if I should spend £180 (+anything that’s broken as mine sounds very poorly at present) with TFTuned servicing and updating to the new DBIL spec, or suck it up and buy a Float X2.

    teethgrinder
    Full Member

    Cane Creek did me a warranty upgrade on an 18 month old InLine to the AirCS with black tube for 75 dollah. Worth it. InLine was brilliant when it worked, but 3x failures wasn’t good.

    momo
    Full Member

    Who did you contact for that TG?

    CC website states that shocks have a 1yr warranty.

    teethgrinder
    Full Member

    Contacted them directly and they said in the UK it was 2 years (TFT stated 1 year). Used this correspondence with TFT to get it sorted twice. Never used it after the last time fixed – went back to CC after they sent the warranty replacement.

    I was given the choice of AirCS, Coil CS or CoilIL. As I had a second hand Coil after the chew on with the inline I went AirCS

    chiefgrooveguru
    Full Member

    I think with the latest upgrades (which can all be done during a service) I’d dare get a DBinline but I wouldn’t have done a year ago! I can’t fault the DBair I’ve had in my Spitfire for three years.

    My Spitfire is now in its eighth geometric iteration (more if you count sagged variations too)! Started out with a 160mm Pike, 27.5 dropouts and 27.5 wheels. Swapped between neutral and slack a fair bit, tried it in steep too. Messed around with different amounts of sag too, the shock varying little (25-28%) but the fork anywhere between 10% and 30%. Settled on 20% front, 25% rear.

    Got some 26″ dropouts a year or so ago to try shorter chainstays (427-431 instead of 437-441mm). Haven’t swapped back from them.

    Shortened the Pike to 150mm and put in a -2 deg Works headset last autumn. Added a Luftkappe too. Rode it in the slack setting until yesterday, tried neutral today. Really nice!

    Original geometry (neutral):
    HA: 66.2
    SA: 73.7
    BB height: 348mm
    Reach: 424mm
    Chainstay: 439mm
    Wheelbase: 1171mm

    Current geometry (neutral):
    HA: 64.6
    SA: 74.6
    BB height: 341mm
    Reach: 430mm
    Chainstay: 429mm
    Wheelbase: 1178mm

    Mine’s a 2014. I think the 2016 & 2017 versions have a lower BB and steeper seat angle, similar to what I’ve achieved with the slackset (but without the super slack head angle).

    I’m very much liking all the new and new-old ones on here – I love how you can tweak them so well to suit how you want to ride!

    niksnr
    Free Member

    Hahaha. ^^^^^^^^^ I’ve pretty much done the same. Superstar 2 deg slack set, 150 pikes, kept the 27.5 dropouts and removed the air assembly and inserted a coil (from CRConceptions) for the pike. Off to BPW Weds for first ride in anger with new fork set-up. Must say, just from riding down the street, it’s feels awesome. Only problem is, it make the rear end feel like wood!!!!!!

    chiefgrooveguru
    Full Member

    I was pretty curious about those coil conversions but struggle with indecision about spring weights. I highly recommend any Pike owners get a Luftkappe put in at their next service, it’s a great improvement. Amazing to think the Spitfire v2 came out in 2013 when you compare the geometry to current bikes – ahead of its time! I swear its KS-link suspension is one of the best designs on the market.

    I’ve been riding it to work this week and then have a three day weekend in Wales, with two days of uplift (BMCC and BPW). It is riding SO well. DBair @ 150psi (25% sag), 150mm Luftkappe’d Pike @ 90psi (20% sag).

    I put 800mm SixC bars on for away trips and everything about the fit and handling is so much better for me than with the 740mm bars I use locally due to excessively narrow tree gaps. Maybe I’ll try them again in Stanmer and see if the pros outweight the cons for me…

    The combination of the longer front-centre due to the sub 65 deg head angle, the mid-stroke support from the Luftkappe and the stability and control from those big bars (they actually measure 810mm with the DMR Deathgrips I use) means I can ride in such a positive centred attacking position. Really looking forward to three days of shredding despite the rather wet forecast*!

    *I may have bought some new goggles with roll-offs. 🙂

    teethgrinder
    Full Member

    BPW this weekend here. Will be running the DBCoil with 450lb Ti spring, 160mm Pikes and will probably switch from neutral to slack. Was thinking Luftkappe, but maybe next pay day.

    chiefgrooveguru
    Full Member

    BPW this weekend here. Will be running the DBCoil with 450lb Ti spring, 160mm Pikes and will probably switch from neutral to slack. Was thinking Luftkappe, but maybe next pay day.

    I’m there on the Saturday!

    teethgrinder
    Full Member

    Sat and Sun! Black Spitfire and a few of us wearing orange Chopwell jerseys. Should be easy to spot!

    scruff
    Free Member

    How much sag are people running? 2016 frame with 19mm of sag here on float evol, but not usually using full travel with no volume spacers.

    v666ern
    Free Member

    Whoops – 2016 black frame en route from Global bikes. Great deal and dealing with Rich there was excellent – he even replied to an email at 10:00 last night. 😀

    8)

    first ride hopefully next week in the quantocks

    chiefgrooveguru
    Full Member

    How much sag are people running? 2016 frame with 19mm of sag here on float evol, but not usually using full travel with no volume spacers.

    I just checked and I’m at about 13.5-14mm seated sag on my DBair. These are the sag charts for the original KS-link bikes:

    http://bansheebikes.blogspot.co.uk/2013/03/ks-link-bike-sag-charts.html

    So that’s about 27-29% sag for me. At 19mm you’re running a bit over 35% sag which seems like a lot – but so much depends on your riding style downhill and how you weight the bike.

    momo
    Full Member

    v666ern – Member
    Whoops – 2016 black frame en route from Global bikes. Great deal and dealing with Rich there was excellent – he even replied to an email at 10:00 last night.

    first ride hopefully next week in the quantocks

    You won’t be disappointed!

    v666ern
    Free Member

    Thanks momo, going to apologise now for the green finishing kit in advance 😳

    niksnr
    Free Member

    Well….today was a tad wet at BPW. So wet it was actually grippy! Just had to watch out for roots! Vicious Valley/Bonneyville/Insufficient Funds riding awesome. New coil in Pikesis one of best things I’ve done to this bike. Playful, supple in initial and mid stroke without that wallow feeling. Bottomed out twice, both times on gap down Vicous Valley, but interestingly not on step downs on Insufficient Funds. I’m gonna be needing a cane creek now!!! Bike also felt really stable with longer wheelbase and not lost any of its playful ability.
    I got chance to ride a Trek Remedy 9 RSL which my mate had hired for day from the BPW shop. Good bike but no where near as good as my Spittie in its current form. It also felt really short (it was a large). I’m 6’1″ and riding a 2015 Spittie, which is also a large. Trek’s sizings seem to be way off for 2017.

    johnny
    Full Member

    A banshee technical question- i thought i’d use this thread rather than the New Spitfire one.

    Does anyone know which 1.5″ Hope lower cup fits a 2016 Rune, for a tapered steerer, with the lowest stack height? I have options of:

    BOTTOM 1.5 TRADITIONAL (44.0) – H

    BOTTOM 1.5 TRADITIONAL (49.57) – F

    BOTTOM 1.5 INTEGRAL (54.9) – G

    BOTTOM 1.5 INTEGRAL (55.9) – E

    Google has so far failed me… 😕

    nickclift
    Free Member

    Sorry, already posted this on previous “New Banshee Spitfire” thread, but still looking for a bit of guidance;

    2015 Spitty owner here!
    Currently running 150mm Sektor Gold forks, considering some Pikes, should I go 160mm or stay on 150mm?
    Any advice greatly appreciated… cheers.

    teethgrinder
    Full Member

    I ran my 2015 initially with 26″ wheels, 160mm Lyriks. Moved to 150mm 650b Pikes. Wasn’t until I got my current 2016 that I eventually increased the travel to 160mm with a new air shaft. It helps slacken the front end, and gets back a little ground clearance to avoid pedal strikes.

    Ultimately, 160mm suits, although there are a2c differences between brands at the same wheel size and travel and also between models of the same brand but different wheel sizes.

    I’m guessing the Sektors came on a full 650b build? Pikes will be more noticeable straight away as they are loads stiffer and the charger is a better damper than MoCo. Personally I’d go 160mm Pikes and if you don’t get on with it get a 150mm air shaft.

    nickclift
    Free Member

    Nice one TG, 160mm Pikes it is!

    chiefgrooveguru
    Full Member

    Does anyone know which 1.5″ Hope lower cup fits a 2016 Rune, for a tapered steerer, with the lowest stack height? I have options of:

    BOTTOM 1.5 TRADITIONAL (44.0) – H

    BOTTOM 1.5 TRADITIONAL (49.57) – F

    BOTTOM 1.5 INTEGRAL (54.9) – G

    BOTTOM 1.5 INTEGRAL (55.9) – E

    Google has so far failed me…

    It’s a 44/56 headset so I think it’s E.

    mark88
    Full Member

    How are people getting on with the DB inline?
    Mine has a noticeable clunk as the shock starts to move. TF inform me this is normal for the shock and is because of air moving between chambers.
    Do other people notice this? I know nothing about shock set up, is there any way to improve it?

    wilko1999
    Free Member

    Not sure how the inline compares internally with the db air, but when my db air had a noticeable clunk at the start of its travel, the innards were falling apart and it needed rebuilding. I’ve had it fixed twice, once at TF tuned, and once by Jake at Sprung Suspension. Sprung did a FAR better job

    scruff
    Free Member

    I had a clunk on the db in-line, it was broke. Happened once and got internal upgrades on warranty then I got a fox after having to pay for a second fix on the ccdb. Then cane Creek released a new version..

    chiefgrooveguru
    Full Member

    So, some further ponderings on Spitfire set-up. I put a Luftkappe in a few months ago but last week was the first time I went anywhere with a significant amount of rocks. I think I’ve learnt quite a bit about fork set-up (and omfg the arm pump!)

    Basically it took me ages to get my 160mm Pike feeling right first time around, and I settled on 15-20% sag, no tokens and middling LSC and rebound. I’d tried everything from 10-30% sag and up to two tokens but this gave me the best midstroke support (I don’t like forks diving) whilst using the travel when I wanted it to – cornering I tend to be forward or centred but when I hit rough stuff I usually ride more off the back so I’m not that hard on the fork on a full-sus.

    The Luftkappe kind of threw me because it made the fork so plush at the start of the travel and I couldn’t get used to it sitting so far sagged (even though it holds up once you’re riding) so over the past weeks I’ve pumped it up more and more – and then I rode Afan with too much pressure in it and my hands/arms hurt (and I only used about 80mm of the travel!) I can’t remember where the sag was, maybe 15%? It’s now at 150mm travel btw.

    I dropped the pressure the next day at BMCC (go there, it’s awesome!) and then again at BPW on the final day, but by noon my arms were suffering from the cumulative battering. It was feeling pretty good by then but I came away thinking that with the Luftkappe I could approach things differently.

    I went from 160 to 150mm travel to lower the BB and steepen the seat angle (the head angle is stupid slack because it has a -2 deg headset). I remember my LBS saying why don’t I just run the 160 with more sag but I explained I didn’t like it feeling soggy and plungey – with more than 20% sag that’s what normal Pikes seem to do under me.

    My room mate on the trip also has a Pike and is a similar weight to me (a bit lighter but goes bigger) so they’re set up similarly. Side by side it’s very obvious that it takes a shove to get his moving but then it’s pretty soft until well into the travel. Mine is very soft at the start and then gets pretty firm feeling much sooner. So that’s the Luftkappe difference.

    So instead of running my 150mm Pike at 20% sag, why don’t I run it at 160mm and 25% sag – that gives the exact same sagged geometry but gives me a bit more negative and positive travel to handle the gnar and lets me run it a bit softer so I can use more of the fork. I can then use more LSC when riding locally and plushness is less important than pumping and run the fork more open when hitting the rocks.

    I rode Afan in the neutral dropout position and that worked great – those techy rocky climbs need some pedal clearance and it’s not that steep or fast. Dropped it to slack a few uplifts in at BMCC and w00t! proper awesome mini DH bike.

    v666ern
    Free Member

    So i’ve finally got my Banshee out on some proper trails, the quantocks were beautiful. Ran it with the steep dropouts and it was really good, legs are knackered after 18miles though!

    Bike is made up from parts from my Jimbo so spank wheels and 36’s and a new fox transfer post.

    Big thanks to Rich at Globalbike in Chester for answering daft emails at 22-00 and then slam69 for building it up.

    Hopefully off to dartmoor this weekend to try out the neutral setting 8)

    v666ern
    Free Member

    Does anyone know if the chrome head badge can be removed or where i can get a black version. Trying to de-colour the black ano version and it grates me.
    Have got slik sending black 36 graphics and a new black oval chain ring coming.

    edit – stoopid picture rotation

    bwall
    Free Member

    Hey, I believe the head badge is just a transfer, so it should peel off. I think a little corner of the one on mine has started to go. As for getting a black replacement, maybe send ison an email?

    bwall
    Free Member

    This is my Spitfire;
    -CCDB inline (Wheezy as anything)
    -Fox Float 34s (Stealth)
    -Stans Flows on Hope Pro4s
    -Xt groupset and brakes
    -Reverb dropper

    Rides like an absolute dream.

    chiefgrooveguru
    Full Member

    I think the stealth logo is there under the chrome transfer…

    Nice bikes!

    teethgrinder
    Full Member

    Someone peel their chrome headbadge off to see if it is stealth underneath…

    chiefgrooveguru
    Full Member

    Just found this in an email from Keith @ Banshee:

    “The stealth now has a decal for headtube, but if you remove it the stealth graphic is still there (our stealth frames don’t have decals). So gives rider the choice to keep it or loose it.”

    teethgrinder
    Full Member

    Hmmm. I’ll report back tonight, then!

Viewing 40 posts - 401 through 440 (of 564 total)

The topic ‘Banshee Spitfire’ is closed to new replies.