Looking to get one of the £50 DX LED bike lights that have had much discussion… http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.25149

I have a set of halogen Fireball lights (like lumicycle (that i run with 20w spot/20w flood). These are now outclassed by my mates exposure max-d's and hopes etc. so I need to upgrade. In terms of power – the DX led is quoted as 900 lumens, how does this compare to a 20+20w halogen set up?

Also – I use the light mainly for commuting 2 or 3 times a week, and just an occasional off road night ride (maybe 4 a month at most) so cant justify £250+ lights – the DX light seems too good to be true… is it?

Cheers

http://www.singletrackworld.com/forum/search.php?q=

It will be brighter than 40 W of halogen but not by much. It won't be 900 lumen – maybe 600 / 700? ( electronic and lens losses)Halogen will be around 20lumen a watt (IIRC) so around 400 for the 2×20 – maybe a bit more if good quality and overvolted. The DX should be nearly as much light as a hope 4 led

I think

Someone was selling an Airbike SL1 for £70 last week, I dont know if it sold, but it might be a nice alternative for you (Better build quality maybe?, although I dont know how people rate the SL1..)

the DX light seems too good to be true… is it?

No, it does exactly what it says on the tin.

Replaced my Lumi 12w 20w halogen setup for commuting. Its lighter, brighter and has longer run time.

I am waiting for Trout to send back my old Lumi can which is converting into one of his LED lights. Will do a shoot out between the two next week sometime.

Regards

spangelsaregreat – Whats the build quality like of your DX light (with reference to trouts previous "bastid" thread)? I'm wondering if it has improved since it first went on sale?

All sounding good so far… seems good value compared to the £200 I paid for my fireball halogens a few years back with the 'bottle' battery.

To be fair the fireballs worked – just a bit heavy and outclassed by other folks LEDs on club rides.

I've got one of '900 lumens' ones on order too – should be here in a week as it shipped yesterday, and that's going to be used as an alternative to my 1st gen, Hope 2x LED one. I just thought for £51 it was worth a punt, given some of the stuff I've read on here and elsewhere. I'll let you know how it goes (once I've found an adaptor for the US plug…)

just cut the plug off and wire a uk one on – its fine

Bought a DX light about a month ago now. Considering what I paid for it, I am very happy with the power and quality. I read all the previous threads about them, and checked the light when it arrived. Never had an issue with it. Had it out in the rain, still no problem.

If you want a brand name light, then pay extra. If you just want a cheap light, then a DX light is well worth the money.

As toddboy said, only had mine a week, pulled it apart and checked, soldering looks OK, plenty of thread on screw holding bracket on and no swarf in light. used once and its been fine, money was saved on battery pack and charger IMO, but not too bad…

Not possible to cut plug off as transformer is built into plug, bit like a mobile charger…

I think a lot people bought an adaptor to convert it to a UK plug/socket. I bought mine in Aus. and I didn't need any adaptors, just plugged it in.

spangelsaregreat – Whats the build quality like of your DX light (with reference to trouts previous "bastid" thread)? I'm wondering if it has improved since it first went on sale?

Duckers,

It seems pretty good. This the second one I have had. The first one worked out of the box but when I charged the battery it died (the battery that is). This one has been fine and I have had one full cycle of the battery so far. Most people seem to comment that they have overcome the small problems Trout highlighted.

Last night I rode home in the pishing rain in the wee small hours (the joys of being held on on a backshift ;-). The light was fine and even on the very dark bits I could see very well. It definately throws a beam strength roughly equivalent to a car dipped head light. I often found my 20w halogen struggled in heavy rain on the road with little to reflect the light off. The Bastid copes well in these circumstances.

I am sure there are brighter lights out there but nothing really compares to it in terms of value for money.

Regards

When the battery pack failed did you return the whole unit to dealextreme or did they just send out a replacement battery pack?

It would appear from feedback on the CPF and MTBR forums that the bastid light makers have listened to and addressed some of the issues in the early lights . and they are shipping with thermal paste and screws holding the led in place and other improvements suggested by some folks .

but here is a report from a guy Who makes the best led drivers out there
so knows what he is on about .

So, I received one of these lights to evaluate. Anyhow, here's my summary after an hour or so of running various measurements.

Cheap construction and incredibly poor thermal path from the LED/Driver to the body of the light.

The driver outputs around 2.4A on high and around 0.84A on low. Regulation appears stable over time and temperature.

The inductor just 'hangs' in space on its leads – that is NOT a good plan for long term reliability as the light bounces around. Those leads will eventually snap. At least pot that part of the circuit down.

The next thing is that the thermal path from the driver is pretty poor. I mounted the brass PCB 'holder' into a support to see how hot the driver electronics would get to versus the brass ring/support. After about 10 minutes the driver was at 75C with the brass ring at 30C. I'm guessing there would be an even higher temp differential with more time. This shows a poor thermal path from the driver to the brass ring.

Now, if we factor in ambient temperature in the housing due to the LED heating, then that poor driver is going to be up in 100C range in very short order. I hate to imagine what the junction temperature of the FET and switcher IC are at.

So, given that the driver shares the same thermal path as the LED that driver WILL cook over time – if the inductor doesn't snap off first…

Anyhow, I certainly wouldn't want to use the light long term and rely on it as it stands. Even beefing up the the thermal path from the LED heatsink to the body of the light will only address keeping the LED somewhat cooler – the driver board is still going to be cooking.

So, in summary, you get what you pay for. The light package is relatively inexpensive, but there's a bunch of thermal issues that haven't been well addressed and some electronics issues (floating inductor and PCB thermal path to the brass ring).

cheers,
george.

The whole thread is here
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=232163
so you can be informed by the geekiest light people on the planet.

Its £50 for a light /battery / charger and works OK cheap enough to bin and buy another next year when it packs up .
you have got to go with your budget and wants / needs.

__________________

I want a trout light for £50! thats what my bike and budget needs (..goes off to cry…. or to at least finish the email I started 4 hours ago)…

P.S I would also like a pair of action man underpants like I had when I was 6, unfortunately they dont make then in 'grown up' sizes…

I want a trout light for £50! thats what my bike and budget needs (..goes off to cry…. or to at least finish the email I started 4 hours ago)…

P.S I would also like a pair of action man underpants like I had when I was 6, unfortunately they dont make them in 'grown up' sizes…

Applauds Trouts honesty, you really are one in a million, top man!

As an aside I read earlier that you can convert a lumi can to lcd, how much? I want a helmet mount flood for peeping around the corners, have you teamed up with Smudge yet to offer a package?
I was thinking a hope one would be my best bet, can you rival that?

Cheers.

Anyone had success with the latest generation of flashlight based units? I'm looking for something more suitable for use as a helmet light.

Something like this looks powerful but the beam spread might not be suitable?

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.18695

Duckers you must stop repeating yourself .
I just collected some new cnc housings today for the new Trout light and they are ace. Just need to build one into a working light when I have all the other jobs done .

First up Spanglesaregreat/s lumi conversion which I Screwed up first time around ( bloody Stupid Lumicycle reverse polarity wiring)
Be done this weekend and posted monday>

2unfit2ride
I have got the lumi can conversion off pretty neat now after a few practice goes ( see above) but sadly you could buy a bastid light for similar dosh !!!!!!!!
Yep Smudge and myself do work as a team He helps me out and likewise Top guy and great batteries / service

had one of these delivered today as a prezzie for my big sis, first thoughts its feking small & bright, put on charge & after 1hr both charger & batt pack are warm not hot, dont cut off 2 pin socket it contains the charging unit, for £50 it's the kind of gear that will (IMHO) encourage people to try off road night riding & when i think back to doing a SITS 24hr race years ago with a trailrat niterider with max 15w output & a burn time of 1hr max the dx light blows it well away!! 🙂

Trout, what is in your lumi conversion ? or do we have options ?
more info please.
Simon

Trout can you give me some details of the lumi conversion aswell please.

Trout, is it possible to do the Lumi conversion on the Marwi NighPro unit that I left with you when you built me up the Troutlight. I have other lamps for you to use BTW. Will fit with my current system and helmet mounts etc. What price we lookin at? Cheers.

sorry about that trout! for some reason my phone keeps double posting!

for the lumi can you need these

and one of these heatsinks

and they all go in here

with a bit of soldering thermal paste and silicon it gives you a 600 lumen fairly nice beam like this

and you can wire in a resistor to give you a hi and low setting or just have hi .
BUT it will get very hot if stationary for long so when on hi you must keep moving or if mending a bike it must be windy and raining also 😀

driver approx £12
optic £ 6
3 leds on board £ 15
heatsink £ 12

and if I do it some beer money and return postage

Andyeez

Yes probably be a better option maybe

I just had a thought I could probably do a few of the heatsink/leds/optics as a sealed pre wired unit and then the user could just buy and wire a driver to it cram it in the lumi houseing and go

Now confused again, was proceeding to DX checkout when I read new posts. Checked out candlepower forum, it is indeed a bit geeky! they do not seem to like light much… my worry is I am not techy at all and would be giving up on a reliable but less bright Fireball light set, for a bright light that may need some expertise to keep going.

Would be keen to know if people on this forum have found it reliable, and especially about overheating chargers! I have a young family at home and dont want to buy something that may prove a bit dodgy.

I know you get the saying 'buy cheap and pay dear' was hoping that the DX unit may be good enough for occasional use… would I be better with something else? don't see anything that comes even close with the light output and run time of the DX unit.

I also see that Trout and others do some home made units… would it be a viable option to use the alloy housings from the fireballs, add a Li-on battery and leds (to replace halogen bulbs)? if so how would cost compare to the DX's?

In answer to the OP. Had my bastid for a little while now, it's been through several charges and has worked faultlessly in all sorts of conditions weather-wise and some very rough and rocky terrain without slipping on its mount or anything. It's survived a couple of crashes OK, one time bad enough to twist it right around on the bars. So all in all seems to be a good little light for the money. Coupled with a fenix L2D on me bonce it's more than enough light for me. For £50 I would recommend it highly.

Wouldn't compare it to one of Troughts lights (which is what I will replace it with if/when it gives up) or a more expensive and (probably) better "branded" light in the same way I wouldn't compare my (steel) 456 to a Ti one which is more expensive but probably rides better and is made by a "proper" craftsman rather than churned out in a factory in the far east.

@ Orangechammy my charger gets warm but not overly hot, I always charge it at work where I can keep an eye on it while it's charging.

Trout YHM

Hi, I posted on another thread, but my Experience so far with the DX "Bycycle light" kit is that

1. My high setting is just about the same brightness as my Mate's medium

2. The battery pack takes on water well and when you come to charge it it wont because the little circuit board under the heatshrink is wet and shorted

3. The build quality is NASTY Nasty drilling, Nasty soldering, bits of swarf in the light etc etc etc.

so I have swapped batteries and my light is still dimmer than my mate's. I figured that the LED or the Driver is to blame so I have bought another driver (8.4v input, 2800ma ) which is close enough (it also gets rid of the switch /flasher etc and was only 4 dollars) Ill let you know how it goes. will reassemble with better heat sinkage than was supplied if poss!

why didnt i send it back? no idea…

Interesting points Dancake, When did you get it? (was it one of the first ones-mine was fine inside no swarf at all, the soldering was OK too, well better than I thought it would be) Good point about the battery pack. Mines been fine but I have always put it on top of my stem so its away from most of the stuff sprayed up by the front wheel. I reckon I will put it in a little placcy bag inside the cloth bag from now on. After reading your post and looking at it I can see how water could creep in to the heatshrink wrapping. Once again I'm very pleased with mine I don't ride with anyone else who has one so don't know how bright it is compared to another one but it matches my mates Hope4 I reckon although it's difficult to compare because the "tint" is quite alot different to his light.

Had mine for about a month now without any problems, charger gets warm but not hot, brightness is equal if not higher than a led4 and the run time is amazing, over the 3 hours they state. About three or four mates also have them and without any faults for longer than me?

bottom line is i recognise that you get what you pay for, but mine have been faultless (as have my mates) for the price we've paid, can't ask for more than that.

Just bought one, can't wait… think £49.95 is worth a risk. I think I may look at getting a better battery pouch, or modding a small dry bag I have to give some added water protection.

I heard that ay-up pouches may fit and be a bit better.

Also, would a standard US to UK plug adapter be OK for the charger – will need to order one. I see Amazon sell these for about 4 quid.

Finally, anyone want a set of Fireball halogens… going cheap!

Trout, I'd like my lumi's troutified!. Mail me on gregbowie AT gmail DOT com.

Cheers, G.

Yep standard US/Euro plug adaptor works fine. I got mine in the local £1 shop.

Mine arrived today and I have it on charge.

Does anyone know how long I should leave it charging for a "full charge"

It looks much better in the flesh than I thought.

I will probably look as others have said into waterproofing the battery pack a bit more.

So with the faults pointed out, what are people doing to fix them.

Poor waterproofing on battery bag (silicone sealant any good for increasing waterproofing)

Hanging inductor (could be be glued into place?)

Thermal conductance (would you improve it with some thermal paste?)

Just wondering as I have one on order, for my missus and I don't mind if I have to mod it a bit first.

Also trout if you do a kit for a Nightpro light I would be interested, as I have an old head unit somewhere.

Trout, do you do any conversions for Cateye stadiums housings ?

My battery is starting to fail, but it strikes me that the housing is well made.

I have a separate battery pack to use.

Got mine yesterday and considering all the complaints about quality I had to take it apart just to check!

TBH it's pretty good in my (amateur) opinion. A few things seem to have changed since the review mentioned above (on candlepower forums and also the mtbr threads). Mine has a longer lead than mentioned, no swarf whatsoever, thermal transfer paste is evident on the heatsink, the screw that mounts into the light unit is longer and has a good grip. There's an extra plastic(?) washer / insulator between the LED and the reflector. The mounting O rings are also different to those pictured- seem beefier. The charger and battery stayed cool during charging.

Overall I think that the manufacturers are listening to / reading the comments they've got so far. It's definitely better than any of the P7 torches I've bought over the last year (a driver in one of those has died completely so I had so rewire it for direct drive and dont expect it to live much longer).

As for performance – its brighter than either of my P7 torches – I'm not sure if it's meant to? Run time seems to match claims so far. It does have a slight green tint.

Realistically I think it's too bright to use around cars – it really does dazzle folk. On my way back from the hills I had a few oncoming cars stop and later a dog owner complain about her dog getting dazzled! How she 'measures' that I'm not sure. I think Im going to try adding some sort of mask / vignette or maybe a shaped piece of coke can over the top part of the lens to change the throw into something more like a dipped car headlamp for when I'm on the road.

For £50 – I think it's great. But given my past experiences I'd still be reluctant to have any DX light as my only light when out in the wilds. Come to think of it I'd be nearly as reluctant with just one of any brand of light. I'll post an update when I've had it a week or so and will also take some beamshots comparing it to a P7 torch and a pair of Niterider Minewt X2's.

Mine's here too – 11 days from order including the bank holiday (maybe they don't have one over there in HK?) I can't give any technical comments as I'm nowhere near qualified to do so, but it looks quite nice… for what that's worth.

No instructions though and I don't know what the suggested charging time is either. I have a US > UK adaptor, but the battery did come charged. How is the battery supposed to attach? Is it with the fabric looped around the top tube then velcroed back on or do the little black buckles play some part?

I'll try it out later or tomorrow night and report back.