If you ride smooth enough, you shouldn’t need a train device.

Stick your front mech in a fixed position on the middle ring if you like, in order to remove the temptation to shift.

Doing this won’t tell me if I need a chain device or not though will it?

Thanks Cynic-al, I will give it a go without & how I go, choo choo 😉

I’ll never go back to a double or triple setup again. I have not misssed either the top or bottom rings at all. Not sure if it’s down to improved fitness but when riding up hills I find it easier than spinning in the granny. It just feels like I’m putting in less effort. I have had to get off and push a few times, but I did with the granny in place. Have good and bad days on the bike and if I’m pushing granny would have made no difference. Running a 33 tooth and an 11/36 cassette. 10 speed. I will say that my bike looks better for it, Also had iscg 05 tabs so run an E-13 LG1 chain device. This setup works perfectly for me. This build was allways going to run a single up front anyway.

Has anyone wondered why they call the little 22 tooth ring a ‘granny ring’?

I’ve been 1×9 for 18 months and it’s made me stronger, my bike quieter and my life easier (in maintenance). Enough said.

No it’s not.

Depends how quick you walk I suppose! I find walking still slower than spinning up a climb. And I also hate pushing up so I even find the climb on a bike more fun. Sort of grown to enjoy challenging technical climbs now. I would maybe consider 1×9 on a hardtail but my fs bobs around too much when stood up to pedal so 2×9 helps a lot.

Back in the early days when 3×7 was the norm your lowest gear was 24 x 28 on our 30lb rigid bikes, and we used to ride much the same forests and mountains as now. 24 x 28 is only a bahair less than 32×34… And if you go 32×36 10speed it’s even closer.

I’ve been running 1×9 since the start of 2003 on my s works enduro and not gone back. Most of my riding is on the DH/jumpy side of things and I just hate noisy rattlng chains and would rather walk for 2% of my riding time to enjoy a better looking/lighter/quieter/more reliable drivetrain for the other 98%. If I lived up north I would have to suffer a front mech and stinger, but I don’t.

We are all different and some people are happy to ride with a bike that sounds like a toolbox falling down the stairs, but it would bug the hell out of me.

New FS for away rides set up as 2×10. HT relegated to local trails where I very rarely, if ever, use the granny in a 2×9 34t 11-32. So I’m about to go 1×10 on that, again with 34t up front and 11-36 out the back. A small weight saving, space for remote lockout on the bars, a bit quieter and less spaces to fill up with mud. Sounds like a good idea to me.

I’m very unfit with steep climbs on my local rides but still enjoy 1×9 and 1×10 on both my bikes. I have 30t chainrings so yeah I’m not pedalling the usual 1xX ratio but think I’m just as fast with this setup.

I used to sit in the granny up every hill, 1×10 forces me to keep a consistent cadence and pick smooth lines. It’s also nice not to have to think about gears as much.

Plus it’s cool etc I also have wide bars, a short stem and steel ht, obviously 😀

If you ride smooth enough, you shouldn’t need a train device.

I see this comment every time there’s a 1x thread and it’s utter bollox.

What is correct is ‘if you ride slowly enough’ or ‘if you ride on smooth enough roads’; but to suggest you’re losing your chain when riding down something like Fort Bill because you’re not riding smoothly enough is just bilge.

^^^ this.

On my Mmmbop I was fine with a top guide only, but my Troof needs a full guide as I keep losing the chain because I can, and am, ragging it harder.

WRT losing ones chain, I reckon there must be other variables – frame, drivetrain setup and gear choice. I can’t remember the last time I lost my chain properly (very occasionally it slips down onto granny but one pedal rotation and you’re back) so I do wonder about people who insist a chain device is a necessity. My usual rides are peaks smash-a-thons too, so I don’t think you can say it’s a ‘smooth road’.

Double and bash, 2×9 setup, XT front mech, no chain device.

No variables involved here other than this bike loves a good ragging so much it needs a proper chain device 😆

The ‘Forge’ top only guide on it was fine on more normal bikes but this thing really does bring out the loon in me… loving it

Despite the colour that looks awesome – like an early ’70s Capri that’s been to the tuners! Bet it goes downhill fast.

I’m using a bashring and top guide (N-gear) which is working fine so far but I don’t know how much of that is down to the bashring. Presumably when you’re hitting things hard you’re on the right hand side of the cassette in the small cogs so you’re more likely to lose the chain to the pedal side of the chainring – and a bashring stops that happening.

I lost my chain properly (very occasionally it slips down onto granny but one pedal rotation and you’re back

Front mech acts as a chain device…

I’ll +1 GeeTee’s comments, wouldn’t risk riding without one for the 50g or so penalty!

Only STW could use 1×9 as an elitist tool to look down their noses at other cyclists.

Front mech acts as a chain device…

I’ll +1 GeeTee’s comments, wouldn’t risk riding without one for the 50g or so penalty!

Perhaps I’m misunderstanding what people call a chain device. I was imagining everyone was using some sort of device (front mech, guide thingy) at the top but whether to run a roller at the bottom is up for debate. I don’t think you need to.

Bottom roller definitely helps on rougher trails.

Perhaps I’m misunderstanding what people call a chain device. I was imagining everyone was using some sort of device (front mech, guide thingy) at the top but whether to run a roller at the bottom is up for debate. I don’t think you need to.

The topic that generally comes up is whether you need anything at all. Some folk think not. I think so (albeit top only) for the reasons GeeTee said above.

Why anyone has ever needed 27 or 30 gears has always baffled me

been running a 1×9 – granny gear up front. riding with my 8 year old son, so speed is sort of relative. anybody know of a guide that would work with -think its like a 26t. laugh, but for tight technical single track this is a great setup. looks like most of the full on dh specific creations start at a 32t.
in addition, have anti suck mabob, and the shark finger thingy keeping it from dropping inside. got bruises from spinning out on the out side however…

I’m not laughing – on my big bike with the HammerSchmidt I spend very little time in the overdrive (34 equivalent) which means I spend most of my time riding my granny (which is a 22)…

as a singlespeeder i find gears confusing. particulary the cross over bit.

1×9 means the only thought process is easier or harder gear. rather than eaiser or harder but would i find a more efficient chainline on the next chainring but 2 gears down/ up.

it allows my brain to get on with the terrain & the gear bit is instinctive – which i don’t find with 2×9 etc. the difference being i enjoy gears 1×9 where with multiples i feel frustrated and they spoil the ride for me!!

if you a smarter than me this proably isn’t an issue.

I occasionally miss the smaller gears when I’m struggling up a hill but likewise I really don’t miss the bit where you need to change front and rear at the same time to avoid dropping too many gears at once.

What chain device?

I use my front mech with the high low adjust screws set to keep the cage in place.

I dropped the chain a lot with no guide – usually haring down rock-filled bridleways on my HT – I imagine it’s much worse with rear suspension.

I have dropped/jammed the chain once with a top-only guide and was wondering about a bottom guide. But since taking another link out of the chain, the top-only has been perfect.

“I use my front mech with the high low adjust screws set to keep the cage in place.”

That works too. I’m wanting a go on the new Hope setup (a jump-stop, ring, plus thin bash) – looks elegant compared to the E13 lump of plastic I’m currently using. I’d also like to try a clutched derailleur on it’s own. So many options!

From bike radar:

We tested pre-production Type 2 samples on some of the highly entertaining (and often challenging) trails in Santa Cruz, California and came away tremendously impressed. Despite not having any sort of proper chain retention system on our Giant Reign and Yeti SB-66 test rigs, we never once came close to losing a chain even after countless jumps and eye-watering descents when we were chasing current and ex-pro riders and clearly in well over our heads.

Moreover, Type 2 yields a gloriously quiet drivetrain. We intentionally ran test bikes in especially challenging 26-11t gear combinations on fast, bumpy trail with no chain slap to speak of – even on the Yeti and Giant’s oversized aluminum stays. There’s also no perceptible change in shift lever effort.

Good company.Thanks for the feed back. Irony is that the same bike (in my late 20s- 46 now) hit 60+ MPH on a 52t spinning (downhill). Guess maybe I will start calling it a Grandad gear to save some face. Tossed the front derailleur aside in disgust at some point, but sans cables, its probably all i need to stop slipping on the high side and avoiding groin contusion. Those new chain guides look pretty cool. I am running the shark finger appendage, anti suck and a tension-er (1997 vintage). Until I went single speed upfront, I NEVER dropped a chain. Pretty sure a nice newfangled dh chain guide would work and I could toss the extra parts. Only concern would still be chainslap, as my current tensioner bridges the gap between cranks and axle.

i have a 1×9 on my drop bar cannondale monstercrosser. i run a medium cage xtr mech on the back and a superstar xcr upper chain device up front. i works absolutely brilliantly. the sram 9-speed cassette has a good spread (can’t remember the ratios off hand) and the dura ace bar end lever is a joy to use.

up until recently, i had three mountain bikes – an on one singlespeed, the cannondale 1×9 and my 30 speed turner flux. the on one was actually the most enjoyable to ride on account of it being so simple (just get on an pedal). for me it is a case of ‘less is more’, so i am finding i ride the 1×9 dale more than the flux, hence the flux being up for sale.

Superstar XCR looks like a straightforward and light piece. Thanks