Wheel builders of STW, I summon you

Just building up a new rim onto my lad’s 2018 Capra with an E13 hub.
I’ve noticed that E13 seem to lace wheels slightly differently to the Musson or Sheldon Brown way where the spoke opposite and slightly anti-clockwise of the key spoke comes through the hub outside to inside. (With the key spoke also coming through the hub outside to inside)
E13 seem to do that one inside to outside.
We’ve got 3 other YT bikes with E13 wheels and they’re all laced like that.
Other bikes we have all have wheels laced the standard way.

Anyone got a view on this?

Makes no difference at all.

From a professional/liability point of view I to it as per Shimano for general wheel builds or no manufacturer instructions. Some hub or rim manufacturers specify a particular way, in which case I would follow the published guidance for a particular product (pretty easy to justify why if ever required, much harder to justify why you did it as per “Bob on the internet says he has been doing it that way for 20 years and its the best”)

From a practical point of view it seems to make no difference at all. (there are various high end wheel manufacturers that do it both ways)

If you go on wheel building forums/groups then some people are very opinionated about it.

If you’re using an existing hub, I’d do it the same way as previous so the deformations where the spokes bedded into the flange are the same.

If you have problems with spoke/derailleur(or caliper) clearance, it allegedly makes a difference. The theory is sound – the under-tension spoke pulling the slacker one inwards or outwards at the crossing point causing binding where it is not there with no tension (no pedalling or braking). Other theories are available but I can’t remember them. That diagram appears to follow a different theory.

I lace them as per bigyans diagram. However I’ve also done it the other way. Cant say it was better or worse.

100% what tthew says. I’ve had Shimano and Hope hub flanges fracture on hubs that weren’t re-laced in the same pattern as the original build. Spoke heads leave indentations in the flange holes that create stress raisers. If you run the spokes in an opposite direction then the force now runs roughly perpendicular to the original notches and they can quickly grow into fatigue cracks.

Thanks for the replies.
Regarding the existing notches on the hub caused by the old spokes, I’ve definitely not followed those with the Sheldon Brown type build (as the spokes in those places are now lying on the inner flanges) so I think I’ll relace and start again.

Cheers, Col