Mine is using 32mm watse pipe as a spacer between the seat clamp and a Weeride child seat so I could reduce the clamping force on the HiLo seat post it was the seat was clamped to.

That will make sense if you know what a Weeride seat is.

But someone will beat that easily (probably with a a glass fibre brake mount or something)

What ya got?

Bought a fancy integrated carbon bar/stem for the road bike, lovely flat aero profile onto which I have no chance of fitting my light. Doh! Never thought of that.
Have now managed to get it mounted on to the stem using the helmet mount.
(Quiet week for bodging, and I’m never going to beat my ‘mending a bent mech hanger using only an allen key, a stone, a dock leaf and my teeth)

Gash 🙁 by simondbarnes, on Flickr

Lovingly Mended by simondbarnes, on Flickr

I’m still needing to use a stick to change down into granny if need be.

The ridiculously stupid rear light mounting of my new Cateye has been successfully bodged thanks to a reflector mount and a zip tie.

It no longer rubs against the inside of my shorts.

It no longer rubs against the inside of my shorts.

😯

simondbarnes wins.

unless somebody has a video of them removing their own appendix with a spoon or something.

Simon…I that a rim brake wheel… 😆

Simon…I that a rim brake wheel…

Yup! I had another brake though and got me the 12 or so miles back 🙂

No braking by simondbarnes, on Flickr

After an interesting first night ride where the power lead kept falling out of one of my lights. I have come up with this cheap simple fix using thin strips of double sided velcro.

Lights bodge by RussellMacnamara, on Flickr

I can now suspend the lights by the cords without the connectors coming out so it should work for keeping them in place on the bike. With it being velcro it is easy to un do when i need to charge the battery 😀

It no longer rubs against the inside of my shorts.

I’m going to end up on some sort of register posting that. Must not post after drinking…

Puncture, but the pump decided to shit it’s self 12 miles from home.
folding grass was a pain but got me home and the rim was fine.

bloody hell. a tyre stuffed with grass. haven’t seen that in 20 years! good show.

20 mins picking grass is better than a 12 mile walk home 🙂
I hope one day some one remembers this then they are up sheet creak facing a long walk LOL

Good work!

Used tie wraps to form a make shift alternator belt on my car. Lasted 200 miles or so, so did the job.

Needed some lighter wheels for the cx bike so had a rummage around in the garage and came up with a pair of 24 hole dt hubs (rear one with the disc tabs busted off) and a pair of old Shimano 16 hole rims. A couple of hours with a hack saw, drill and taps and I’ve now got a 1200gram pair of disc wheels for the 3 peaks.

A couple of days back I used duct tape and cable ties to re-attach what was left (not an awful lot after the 20 miles of motorway grinding 😳 ) of the front section of bellypan on the car after some cack-handed monkey forgot to fasten the screws when I left it in to get serviced.

decided to install my old dmr v8s for a mate in the carpark at gisburn crank threads weren’t the best I made them worse…. half way around his pedal came off…. Threads totally stripped 8) we emptied our bags and came up with the adjustable spanner pedal it held on for a few mile before we started taking turns to tow each other with a bungy cord and sticks on the fire tracks back to the car park…. It was a laugh anyway 😀

After a puncture in the Quantocks I fixed said holes and pumped tyre up, removing the flexy hose thing for the pump the core of the valve came out too.

It did this twice and we didn’t have another tube so we left the pump tube on the valve and taped it to the spokes.

Not much but a bodge all the same.

Grass tyre wins haha dang

green beans instead of mangetout in Sundays Thai curry. worked much better than expected

high tyres pressures and a piece of sharp flint tore a rather large gash in my tyre – this lasted a couple of miles off road and down the canal path, but I still ended up having to walk 4 miles home 😕

Like the Superstar brake pad packaging showing through…nice touch 🙂

I rode with a stick wedged in my front mech for 2 years. Primitive 1 x 9

nuke – Member

Like the Superstar brake pad packaging showing through…nice touch

And sticking to the brand ethos he still had to walk home. 😆

the superstar cardboard was the part that failed
still lasted longer than their brake pads though
.
only kidding, I like superstar brake pads

I rode with a stick wedged in my front mech for 2 years.

And if I recall when you got round to fixing it you splashed out on Teflon cables.

I liked the irony of going from stick to non-stick.

And sticking to the brand ethos he still had to walk home.

Incorrect installation. No chance of a warranty claim…

not mine, but…

not mine.
the clip broke off a topeak aerowedge while practising wheelie drops on the commuter..
unscrewed it,passed a zip tie between the two holes.then used a long toe clip to pass through saddle rails and aforementioned ziptie,round the bag.
works fine.+ lighter as well.

I love these pedals

Needed a seat post with lots of lay back and found this FSA on CRC for £30 reduced from £110, but in a really stupid size, 29.4!!
Tried to find anyone that had a 29.4-31.4 shim, but i couldn’t find one, so my back up plan was to just give it a carbon wrap to bring it up those extra few mm.
Bit of a pain to sand it down to level it all at 31.4, but it now works fine 🙂

I really can’t see why on earth you’d want to use a dropper seatpost with a weeride in the first place 😕

So you can get on and off more easier GW – same reason I have a Reverb and a LOCT on my bike. I like to be on the bike when I lift the passenger on – prevents droppage of children – for this you need the seat low as there is no room to straddle the top tube. But then the seat is too low for proper riding.

Yes I could get (and have gotten) away without it, but ’tis also a good excuse for buying the dropper seatpost.

No pics but I manufactured a new lower headset seal by chopping a section out of a spare upper seal and rejoining it with super glue just like we do with some of the o-rings at work.

WTF? that’s gota be the lamest excuse for buying a dropper post ever 😆
I use a weeride for at least 10 journeys a week and have never had a problem either putting a child in one while not on the bike (infact it’s far easier while you’re not on it) or getting on/off, simply make sure it’s safely leaning against something while you strap them in and when getting on and off put one foot on a pedal, hands on bars and get on from behind. You need the saddle slightly lower with a weeride anyway as your knees are forced outwards by the seat.

My wife is on a 14″ frame and the saddle almost touches the childseat so it’s not as easy as on a larger frame.

On my bike with the LOCT, it has been used in the Alps so the ability to play with saddle height has been quite useful – more to drop the centre of gravity than anything else.

But yes, the use doe not fully justify the cost – but then again so little of mountain biking does.

I ride a 14″ frame

OK you win then 😀

Try it with a dropper though; you’ll like it.