Tubeless What to do?
If I’m not mistaken you can run stans flow ex with just yellow tape and no rim strips. I do on my std flows. As I said on the other tubeless thread my rear does deflate over time but I have non UST tires.
I don’t really care about weight, maybe it is a lighter set up?! But I haven’t had a puncture stopping ride in going on 2 years. Odd puncture yes but the sealant has always caught it. To me, even if tubeless weighed more I would still do it.Posted 4 years agodiscoduckMember
I’ve always run tubes and on Tuesday whilst riding at Dalby my tyre went down in seconds on a technical down bit, it turned out that the valve had become unseated from the tube probably due to perishing or constant rubbing,
Right there and then i decided to go tubeless, now having looked into it i’m not so sure ?Posted 4 years agodiscoduckMember
I’m in a bit of a dilema,
Having recently ordered a new Frame in ally and not Carbon i’m now looking for wheels 26″ just for the record and i’ve decided on STANS Flow Ex
MAXXIS tyres just because im confident them,
My question is this: With the weight of the tyres, Gloop, and the rubber rim strip with valve on surely this is the same if not more than running tubes,
How does it compare from those in the know ?Posted 4 years agomikewsmithSubscriber
What’s yellow tape ? And how is it different to rim tape. Is it just thickness.
Yellow tape is a Stans product, it’s basically a non porous tape that seals the holes in the rim where the spokes holes are inside.
Second. I have crossmax, do I need any tape.
Do you have spoke holes inside the rim?
The other thing that you may need is a rim strip which is like an inner tube strip with the valve in to seal & seat everything better. This is optional (depends how well the conversion goes) if not you will need a valve, preferably with a removable core.Posted 4 years agocaptcavemanMember
The rim strip or tape seals the nipple holes in the rim. You dont have them which means you have a UST or tubeless specific rim. If UST rim you could run a UST tyre without any sealant, but you wont have puncture protection, so even with your rims, most would add sealant. If you just have tubeless specific tyres then you must use sealant to seal leaks between the rim and the bead, and also to seal the sidewall which can be very leaky.Posted 4 years ago
Best thing to do is watch the videos on the Stan’s website which are greatboxelderSubscriber
They may be a little heavier but feel lighter – ?Posted 4 years ago
I was very sceptical when I tried it, but would never go back.
Changed 4 tubeless tyres in half an hour the other day – crest rims with bontrager, scwalbe and maxxis tyres. All inflated first time with a track pump and didn’t need tyre levers.
Couple of weeks ago got a slash in a tyre and fixed on the trail with the motorbike style needle punch and rubber strip kit – 5 mins and no removing tyre.
Do it – yellow tape and sealant.shortcutSubscriber
Crossmax and other Mavic tubeless rims conform the the UST (Universal Systeme Tubeless (its French)) standard and don’t need tape just magic valves. They are designed to work with UST compatible tyres and don’t need rim strips or sealant. Sealant is however commonly used because it will seal any thorn type punctures.
Stans rims and others (DT, Bontrager) are often tubeless ready and will usually work fine with any tyre (tubeless) you will need Stans yellow tape (google it) and a stand valve together with sealant and maybe some perseverance. The are loads of videos for going tubeless (watch them).
Some tyre and rim combinations won’t work or won’t work very well. Luck? Or ask.
Tubeless does give you a lower weight, better feel (arguable), improved puncture resistance. Some can get away with running low pressure but don’t go too low or you will be smashing your rim!
You can fix bigger punctures on the trail with tubeless specific kits try Panaracer or Weldtite (worms). Again (google & eBay).
That is all I have to say.Posted 4 years agounklehomeredSubscriber
Second. I have crossmax, do I need any tape
Are your crossmarks the base model or exo? I found base cross marks hard to get to work with flow rims, too slack, even once one they blew off (literally, with a bang) on riding. If they have stronger sidewalls (lust,exo etc.) you should be OK.Posted 4 years agoDickyboyMember
1. Full on tubeless tyres are generally heavier than lightweight tyres & tubes. So unless you can get some lightweight non tubeless tyres to seal properly, going tubeless is not really a route to go for the weight weenie. (this is on proper tubeless rims, with rim strips you won’t see any weight reduction I wouldn’t have thought)Posted 4 years ago
2. Tubeless ready tyres with sealant will be lighter than same tyres with tubes (50 – 70g lighter per wheel compared with 125g tubes in my experience).
3. So far I’ve been fairly unimpressed apart from puncture resistance, due to problems with tyre roll giving to squidgy a feel with 2.35″ tubeless ready tyres but am trying different combos to see how it goes.mrmonkfingerMember
Weight was never a consideration for me.
General lack of punctures, check.
Low pressure niceness, check.
Sometimes a bit hit and miss to set up, depending on the tyre rim combination, but worth it imo.
edit – make yourself a coke bottle inflator if you have any trouble getting the tyre seated. They work a treat.Posted 4 years ago
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