Viewing 18 posts - 1 through 18 (of 18 total)
  • Tubeless What to do?
  • discoduck
    Free Member

    I’m in a bit of a dilema,
    Having recently ordered a new Frame in ally and not Carbon i’m now looking for wheels 26″ just for the record and i’ve decided on STANS Flow Ex

    MAXXIS tyres just because im confident them,

    My question is this: With the weight of the tyres, Gloop, and the rubber rim strip with valve on surely this is the same if not more than running tubes,

    How does it compare from those in the know ?

    seavers
    Free Member

    If I’m not mistaken you can run stans flow ex with just yellow tape and no rim strips. I do on my std flows. As I said on the other tubeless thread my rear does deflate over time but I have non UST tires.

    I don’t really care about weight, maybe it is a lighter set up?! But I haven’t had a puncture stopping ride in going on 2 years. Odd puncture yes but the sealant has always caught it. To me, even if tubeless weighed more I would still do it.

    discoduck
    Free Member

    I’ve always run tubes and on Tuesday whilst riding at Dalby my tyre went down in seconds on a technical down bit, it turned out that the valve had become unseated from the tube probably due to perishing or constant rubbing,

    Right there and then i decided to go tubeless, now having looked into it i’m not so sure ?

    shortbread_fanylion
    Free Member

    You won’t need a rim strip so can discount that weight. I’m with seavers though – I find the benefits would still be worth a weight penalty.

    Garry_Lager
    Full Member

    I’ve ridden tubeless for over 10 years and in all that time I don’t recall a fk being given over the relative weight. The fact I’ve had approx 5 punctures in 10 years, OTOH, is something I care about.

    orangeboy
    Free Member

    Yep just tape for stans flow , and its as much the huge grip and next to no flats Iove

    mikewsmith
    Free Member

    running with just yellow tape in 719’s and Ardents

    The weight difference is there but small, they stay up fine and I run the same pressures. Just a bit easier and less pinch flats

    JollyGreenGiant
    Free Member

    If you have tubeless rims and just need yellow tape, tubeless will be very lighter unless you run very light but thin tubes.

    bikebob
    Full Member

    Tubeless numpty here, but considering after reading so much on here. What’s yellow tape ? And how is it different to rim tape. Is it just thickness.
    Second. I have crossmax, do I need any tape.
    Usual thanks to helpful answers, good laugh to those not so.

    mikewsmith
    Free Member

    What’s yellow tape ? And how is it different to rim tape. Is it just thickness.

    Yellow tape is a Stans product, it’s basically a non porous tape that seals the holes in the rim where the spokes holes are inside.

    Second. I have crossmax, do I need any tape.

    Do you have spoke holes inside the rim?

    The other thing that you may need is a rim strip which is like an inner tube strip with the valve in to seal & seat everything better. This is optional (depends how well the conversion goes) if not you will need a valve, preferably with a removable core.

    bikebob
    Full Member

    Thanks mike. I have no spoke holes in rim ( probably why they are so expensive, but cheaper ex stock) so I assume valve and sealant. Presumably the rim strip you mention is in place of sealant. Thanks

    captcaveman
    Free Member

    The rim strip or tape seals the nipple holes in the rim. You dont have them which means you have a UST or tubeless specific rim. If UST rim you could run a UST tyre without any sealant, but you wont have puncture protection, so even with your rims, most would add sealant. If you just have tubeless specific tyres then you must use sealant to seal leaks between the rim and the bead, and also to seal the sidewall which can be very leaky.
    Best thing to do is watch the videos on the Stan’s website which are great

    boxelder
    Full Member

    They may be a little heavier but feel lighter – ?
    I was very sceptical when I tried it, but would never go back.
    Changed 4 tubeless tyres in half an hour the other day – crest rims with bontrager, scwalbe and maxxis tyres. All inflated first time with a track pump and didn’t need tyre levers.
    Couple of weeks ago got a slash in a tyre and fixed on the trail with the motorbike style needle punch and rubber strip kit – 5 mins and no removing tyre.
    Do it – yellow tape and sealant.

    shortcut
    Full Member

    Crossmax and other Mavic tubeless rims conform the the UST (Universal Systeme Tubeless (its French)) standard and don’t need tape just magic valves. They are designed to work with UST compatible tyres and don’t need rim strips or sealant. Sealant is however commonly used because it will seal any thorn type punctures.

    Stans rims and others (DT, Bontrager) are often tubeless ready and will usually work fine with any tyre (tubeless) you will need Stans yellow tape (google it) and a stand valve together with sealant and maybe some perseverance. The are loads of videos for going tubeless (watch them).

    Some tyre and rim combinations won’t work or won’t work very well. Luck? Or ask.

    Tubeless does give you a lower weight, better feel (arguable), improved puncture resistance. Some can get away with running low pressure but don’t go too low or you will be smashing your rim!

    You can fix bigger punctures on the trail with tubeless specific kits try Panaracer or Weldtite (worms). Again (google & eBay).

    That is all I have to say.

    unklehomered
    Free Member

    Second. I have crossmax, do I need any tape

    Are your crossmarks the base model or exo? I found base cross marks hard to get to work with flow rims, too slack, even once one they blew off (literally, with a bang) on riding. If they have stronger sidewalls (lust,exo etc.) you should be OK.

    Dickyboy
    Full Member

    1. Full on tubeless tyres are generally heavier than lightweight tyres & tubes. So unless you can get some lightweight non tubeless tyres to seal properly, going tubeless is not really a route to go for the weight weenie. (this is on proper tubeless rims, with rim strips you won’t see any weight reduction I wouldn’t have thought)
    2. Tubeless ready tyres with sealant will be lighter than same tyres with tubes (50 – 70g lighter per wheel compared with 125g tubes in my experience).
    3. So far I’ve been fairly unimpressed apart from puncture resistance, due to problems with tyre roll giving to squidgy a feel with 2.35″ tubeless ready tyres but am trying different combos to see how it goes.

    mrmonkfinger
    Free Member

    Weight was never a consideration for me.

    General lack of punctures, check.
    Low pressure niceness, check.

    Sometimes a bit hit and miss to set up, depending on the tyre rim combination, but worth it imo.

    edit – make yourself a coke bottle inflator if you have any trouble getting the tyre seated. They work a treat.

    unklehomered
    Free Member

    make yourself a coke bottle inflator if you have any trouble getting the tyre seated. They work a treat.

    Also they’re really good fun, I spent 30 minutes seating tyres before I got round to putting sealant in and getting on with other stuff.

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