Weight and rolling resistance I would imagine…

What’s the difference between One and Pro One?

Don’t know the technical differences, but the One is definitely heavier, according to my kitchen scales anyway.

Picked up a puncture on my tan wall One last Sunday, which wouldn’t seal. Hopefully not a sign of things to come.

Found some Pro Ones for £40 each.

A colleague is telling me to get Stan’s Race sealant for road, he says normal Stan’s is a false economy. Makes sense to use better binding thicker sealant on a higher pressure tyre.

What’s the difference between One and Pro One?

about 1mph on your avg speed

Also not sure the one is tubeless where the pro is

A colleague is telling me to get Stan’s Race sealant for road, he says normal Stan’s is a false economy. Makes sense to use better binding thicker sealant on a higher pressure tyre.

Yr colleague is right about the issue. Dont know if hes right about Stans race being the answer, I doubt it.
Some small punctures you get wont seal at optimal road pressures, but they will at lower psi like 40 say so you can keep riding. Don’t think there is a sealant out there that will always plug a hole at 80 psi+.

That’s a good point. I wouldn’t mind if I had to stop and pump up, as long as it seals eventually.

Happy with the Conti 5000 TL 25 mm, puncture less than with the tubed one plus it’s among the fastest..

When I searched for GP5000s they were more widely available (and in fewer confusing versions) but were listed at 340g in 28c, whereas I found Pro Ones for only slightly more but they are listed at 270g.

Orange seal seems to be the sealant of choice on weight weenies road forum.
I wonder how many people complain about tubeless not sealing are using poor performing sealant.

Well my mate had issues and it was set up for him by his LBS using Giant stuff. He also had 120 psi in.

I wonder how many people complain about tubeless not sealing are using poor performing sealant.

Caffelatex in mine. In contrast, I’ve never had a problem with ordinary Stan’s sealing.

Caffelatex also, though not sure I’ve had any punctures to test it.

Orange seal (endurance) and Stans have all woirked well for me in the past.

Orange seal actually held to 100 psi when I tried it in a tubular repair with a dab of flexible Loctite on the outside.

Caffelatex also, though not sure I’ve had any punctures to test it.

Or maybe you have…?

Does anyone thing it does NOT improve ride quality?

I’m not there is a ‘night and day’ difference. I have 25mm latex/clinchers and 25mm and 28mm tubeless. I don’t think I could tell the difference between the two sets of 25mm tyres. The 28s offer a slightly smoother ride but they are bigger tyres. I don’t hate road tubeless, but I don’t think it’s a massive step forward like it was for MTB.

Back to the OP, I like Hutchinson tubeless tyres for the road. I really like GP4000 and 5000 but I couldn’t get GP5000TL on to my Mavic rims, they are an incredible snug fit. (It seems to be quite a common problem with GP5000TL.)

Or maybe you have…?

Indeed!

By the way, Schwalbe now have a Pro One Addix in tubeless with tan/transparent sidewall if that’s your kind thing…

I wonder how many people complain about tubeless not sealing are using poor performing sealant.

25mm Pro Ones up without a problem using a track pump on the 2 way-fit Zondas and held pressure well.

28mm version needed tape and a pressurised tank fill to get them to hold.

Sealant – Stans Race for both.

The gravel bike has Continental 33mm tyres fitted tubeless that went up with the track pump, 3 wraps of tape and they hold pressure for a couple of rides on Orange sealant.

I suspect there’s too many variables to reliably call what the problem is.

When you say tape, you mean tape around the outside to help it inflate, or rim tape?

Rim tape, the Zondas don’t have a drilled rim and shouldn’t need a tape for inflation.

God i find road tubeless such a **** pain in the arse. I see so little benefit from it. My lady’s bike is still running it, more because i can’t be bothered to fight the tubeless tyres to fit tubes, but i’ll be keeping tubeless to the MTB.

I’ve just retired one of a pair of Vittoria Corsa control 30c tubeless after around 2500 miles. Been brilliant. Used very much outside the tyre design parameters for road and rough road riding and a lot of audaxes. Very good and smooth ride with loads of feedback and grip. Kept pressure brilliantly.

I went with Pro Ones but can’t compare with anything else. They’re good, roll well, grip, all that. No problems sealing but they’re tight, in fact definitely the tightest tyre I’ve fitted for years. Getting them to pop onto the bead of either of my wheels is hard- needs a ton of pressure and soap and a little luck. They won’t bead up on one set at all, with tubes in- which isn’t an issue, til you get a flat…

And yet, they still pop off the bead when flat.

So I dunno. I’m happy with them as a tyre but the tubeless side of it reminds of old Schwalbe mtb tyres when they decided that the secret to tubeless was to make undersized tyres. For sure one of my wheelsets is also pretty tight but the other isn’t, and neither had any issues with conti or vittoria tyres.

I’m thinking of wiping a bit of silicone spray on the bead instead of soap.

Hmm. I’ve just had my third Pro One get a cut in it that wouldn’t seal and bulges with a patch in it. One of the morals here is that they’re prob not ideal as a winter tyre.

Well I run the same tyres all the time so..

Further to mentioning Hutchinson fusion previously in this thread I fitted a new pair of 28c to some carbon road/gravel wheels I had built by a local builder and they went up with a track pump, no sealant or lube and have been sat for 2 days at near 100psi without losing pressure.
Did need to use a single tyre lever to fit but they were certainly not difficult.

I’ve had Voyager Hypers (38) Fusions (30), Sectors (32) , Pro Ones (28) and GP5000TL (32) and have settled on the GP5Ks.

The Voyagers were okay, but wore very quickly to the point of starting to puncture (<1500km), the Fusions were okay, but small and felt a little harsh for a tubeless tyre. The Pro Ones come up quite small and I found them to be lethal in the wet, especially on surfaces nwhere you transition from road to a path. They did improve a bit after 600-700km (they stopped squealing in the corners), but were never inspiring. The Sectors I ran for a long time. They do come up smaller than I’d like, but rode well and wore well (>3000km on the rear) and I only got one puncture in 8000km on them. The hole was about 5mm across, so not sure anything would’ve sealed. An anchovie fixed it and I ran the tyre for another 2000km. The GP5ks roll better than any of the afore mentioned tyres, they also size up properly and are nice and supple, giving a great ride. 5000km in and they initially do wear fairly quickly, but seem to be okay after that initial period and are lasting well. No punctures so far and that’s with commuting and country lanes thrown into the mix.

I’ve found Pro Ones to be fine in the wet, and easy enough to fit and inflate.

Also durable enough so far, inlcuding riding into a square-edged pothole without even slowing down – I was amazed when I didn’t have a flat either end.

I know the older version had a rep for being more fragile though.

I have used Spesh roubaix in 30/32 used on shit roads, first ride I got a puncture that didnt seal!! Tube job and patched the tyre later another time I had a puncture that was trying to seal but another rider I was with punctured so I put a anchovy in it whilst I was waiting. Jury still out for me. Pro ones are tubeless on mrs anagalis bike, been puncture free so far. Good job as they were a massive wrestle to get on!

Is there a consensus on the best way to fix road tyre punctures that won’t seal? A patch on the inside? Anchovies? Recommendations for repair kits that work much appreciated. Thanks.

@ransos. I’ve always just used an anchovie of appropriate size. I’ve never had to go back due to do further repairs.

Thanks @Daffy. I was concerned that the repair might blow back out at road pressure but sounds like it’s ok. Wiggle do a kit for £5.

Got a link to the anchovies you use?

Is there a consensus on the best way to fix road tyre punctures that won’t seal? A patch on the inside? Anchovies?

Whenever I have used an anchovy I have then patched the inside of the tyre at home. LBS mechanic advised this, said anchovies can be worked loose on the road more easily than mtb

Here you go:

Well they arrived, so I fitted them. And frankly I’m astonished how well they went up. By far the easiest tubeless set up I’ve ever done by a mile. Not even tight on the rim, easily fitted with thumbs alone; airshot not required, they just went up with a few pumps. Bead popped on at about 70psi. By far the hardest part was taping the rim. I mean come on, what would it cost you to make it a bit bloody stickier?

Stan’s race is weird though. You can hear the bits rolling around inside the tyre like tiny marbles when you spin the wheels, and it’s quite loud. It sounds like when you’ve got grit in your discs.

The carbon valves I got from Wiggle are great too – they fit really nicely, some of the best I’ve used, they look great and they are only FOUR grammes. However don’t get too big a size as for some odd reason they aren’t threaded all the way down. I had to put the alternative rubber washer on the outside and screw down on that.

The tyres looked tiny, but they came up at 27.5mm on 19mm internal width rims. Turns out the 28c it came with were actually 30.5. No wonder the mudguards were a tight fit.

Just been for a spin, and results are good.

I put 60ml of sealant in, so I reckon I’ve saved:

80g on the tyre
10g on the rim tape (the original stuff was pretty sturdy and Schwalbe tape is really thin)
60g on the tube

.. on each wheel, which is a 300g saving roughly. And it’s noticeable.

In terms of speed when rolling, not particularly noticeable but I’m knackered today. A bit smoother and more lively somehow – to be fair, the old ones were pretty wooden.