I’ve always greased them and I’m not a engineer or bike mechanic. Not split one yet…. watch this space. Lol

LOL Cytech.

“LOL Cytech” a shroppyshire+1

A skim of grease and 25 foot lbs if I remember correctly.

LOL Cytech.

Are you impugning the much-respected industry-wide qualifications system? 🙂

Go without, if it creaks grease it up.

If you ride your bike in winter, grease it or remove your cranks every so often just in case they seize on.

My opinion is that not greasing is the counsel of perfection and perfectly valid for dry countries or race bikes where things like cranks etc get removed far more often than commuter bikes.

If you use crappy BBs then no need to grease because you’re going to be pulling your cranks off frequently. 🙂

I regard the grease as an insulating layer to prevent electrolytic corrosion between dissimilar metals and not as a lubricant. There may be something better out there, but grease is convenient.

It’s probably worth asking the questions:

1. How many have had to cut a crank off that has not been greased?

2. How many have split a crank by using grease?

Shimano silver sauce?
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=27624

Ocb , i believe that was coined by tullio campagnolo.

More engineer than mechanic.

Its the school of thought i subscribe to anyway and no issues from my mk1 turbines or my rs7s from 2001

epicyclo,

WHAT?!?

Are you saying it doesn’t really matter?

*gasp*

timbur – Member
Shimano silver sauce?…

I wonder what it’s got in it?

Thick oil plus a filler, perchance? ie fancy grease 🙂

Holy Shit, my voodoo-o-meter just hit 11.

Use grease. Grease enables correct assembly. Whether it moves when assembled is immaterial.

nedrapier – Member
epicyclo,
WHAT?!?
Are you saying it doesn’t really matter?
*gasp*

It’s actually a roadie rule. They don’t believe in greasing their cranks, but slather it on their bums instead. 🙂

Are you impugning the much-respected industry-wide qualifications system?

No no no no 😆

I have learned through wrenching on and off for the last 23 years that mechanics tend to learn by obtaining information handed down by other mechanics over the years and they then just take on this info as gospel.
You mentioned pulling / trailing spokes too and that’s another great example. You have Shimano saying that you have to have the rear pulling spokes on the driveside with this nipples facing in, and Chris King say exactly the opposite IIRC! The are precious few hard facts backed up by scientific evidence in the world of bike mechanics, just history / tradition, and I don’t think the likes of Cytech do anything to change this. May as well just learn in a shop from someone with a beard and an attitude problem 😀

OK I’m off to build a wheel….shall I use oil, linseed oil, DT Spokefreeze, Wheelsmith Spokeprep…..? 😀

walleater, I used olive oil last time I built a wheel.

To date, I have not died.

mr monkfinger – what about stems on steerers and bars?

I used mint flavoured lubricant last time I built a wheel. It has the added advantage of making the air smell nice and fresh for the people riding behind me.

Steel BB = no grease, Ti BB = thin coating of anti-seize. Has worked for me for 20 years 🙂

May as well just learn in a shop from someone with a beard and an attitude problem

I don’t have a beard!

mr monkfinger – what about stems on steerers and bars?

Clamping force is parallel, not end on.
Round objects in round clamp, not shaped interface.

Apples and onions, my friend.

so… what about them?

I used mint flavoured lubricant

Was this from the Anne Summers range?

It’s not meant to move. It’s meant to stay still. So you don’t grease the taper.

Did Cytech teach you about the bolt in the end of the BB axle? That’s the bit keeping the interface still, not the friction. I’m assuming Cytech also didn’t explain to you why the torque in the crank bolt decreases with riding?

It is , however, acceptable to apply a drop of LIGHT oil which will ease assembly but be squeezed out as the taper settles in.

So how do you think light oil differs in how it works compared to grease? Or did Cytech not explain that either?

Grease only one side and report back in 6/12/24 months

It’s probably worth asking the questions:

1. How many have had to cut a crank off that has not been greased?

2. How many have split a crank by using grease?
Ah, but 3. how many have found the NDS crank taper absolutely knackered after 6-12 months of writing? It may only be me, but it happens to 70% of my square taper BBs.

Hence why I switched to HTII, relunctantly.

@trail_rat … Ta! 😉