Forum menu
Nice. Keep it coming - bit of inspiration
Roaches is my local.crag. 25 minutes on a good traffic day. Not climbed there in about 18 months though. Hoping to really get back climbing as of next month.
First time out in 2 year, due to long covid, on Saturday. We ended up doing Curved Ridge and Crowberry Tower in sublime conditions. There was even a plentiful supply of blaeberries all the way up the route. Wonderful day - 10/10 rating.
First time out in 2 year, due to long covid, on Saturday. We ended up doing Curved Ridge and Crowberry Tower in sublime conditions. There was even a plentiful supply of blaeberries all the way up the route. Wonderful day – 10/10 rating.
A day on the Buchaille in the sun never fails to please.
Cracking day soloing at Bowden and Kyloe yesterday, 51 routes and a few problems. Kyloe never fails to please.
Bowden is looking pretty worn these days, the sort of thing you really notice when you don't visit regularly.
<br />upload pic<br />
Nice.
That's the downside of a softsock crag that gets enough trade to not go green, get dirty.
On a similar subject I saw some photographs of Froggatt a week or so ago, at the busy bit (Downhill racer etc.) and I thought it looked more grassy than it did 30 years ago. I haven't been there for a long time now...
I thought it looked more grassy than it did 30 years ago. I haven’t been there for a long time now…
Pads make a big difference to the erosion at the bottom of problems. The rock on Child's Play at Bowden is trashed but the bottom of it is all grass now whereas is was just dirt back in the day.
This is really tragic compared to the other posts, but it's all I have, so in it goes...
Had an excellent roped session at the wall this morning for the first time in years... Last couple of trips have been well demoralising, topping out at about 6a+. But today I felt the flow state for the first time in ages, and really really enjoyed it. "Did" a few 6cs, including nearly flashing one of the overhangs. Just the feeling I had moving around, trying the sequence, down climbing to try again and eventually getting the move was great. I wasn't quite on max commitment when I fell, which was a shame, but more than made up for by the feeling of total relaxation. Just so satisfying to be able to chill trying the moves and then take a biggish lob without even giving a thought to it.
Got a big fat gut these days, and never been good at overhangs, but I had this confidence and relaxed technique that I've not had for years. Yay !
Maybe I should try to persuade the family to do Kalymnos at October HT after all.....
I've found that the secret to being able to consistently enjoy my climbing is to accept it's not going to be awesome and I won't be pushing the grades out on every session/trip (cause being awesome 2 or 3 times a week is hard work and not very likely).
I just like to do a lot of climbing, rubbish or not. Which means I have a big enough base that when I do need it, I've got it!
’ve found that the secret to being able to consistently enjoy my climbing is to accept it’s not going to be awesome and I won’t be pushing the grades out on every session/trip (cause being awesome 2 or 3 times a week is hard work and not very likely).
I spent years thinking I should always be performing at my top level and constantly threw myself at routes of that grade. Sometimes I did them, sometimes I did them but didn't really enjoy the experience and sometimes I failed then beat myself up about it. Nowadays I go out with cruising in mind and only try harder stuff if I'm really motivated. Much more enjoyable!
Wise words Spin. I obsessed about doing 7a almost every trip I went on. In the end the first one I did was a relaxed trip somehere we didn't even had a guidebook. Only found out years later.
Anyway QQ..... If one was going to extend a crazy weekend trip from Manchester to the gorms next weekend by doing the Toridon lollipop, is there a good sport climbing crag somewhere between Aviemore and Achnaschellach that you could recommend for a rest day. 5-7a mainly nearer 6a.
Was thinking of Moy rock, but if there does exist any Torri sandstone peppered with bolts then that would be da bomb...
.
I spent years thinking I should always be performing at my top level and constantly threw myself at routes of that grade.
Climbing's weird in that everyone (including me) kind of expects to be able to hit a PB every single session. It's also pretty much pass/fail so not hitting that PB can mean total 'failure'. You've almost got to work at finding things to enjoy. It took me a few years to figure that out but climbing's so much more fun now I have.
Let’s talk local training/quick hit crags. The wee places you go for a quick burn that you have grown fond of but would never recommend to visitors.
@thegeneralist - does it have to be sport climbing? The bouldering in Torridon is ace.
Ooh, I do quite well on this one! I've got the Matlock quarries a couple of minutes' walk from the door. Wouldn't want to inflict them on anyone else but they are fun (if you shut your eyes).
is there a good sport climbing crag somewhere between Aviemore and Achnaschellach that you could recommend for a rest day. 5-7a mainly nearer 6a.
Have a look at An Teanga and Fideal Crag. Have you climbed at Moy? It's right on your way and there are some great routes but it's not everyone's cup of tea.
Looks like I've got a week free to go climbing towards the end of October. Most likely Yorkshire if the weather plays ball.
Climbing’s weird in that everyone (including me) kind of expects to be able to hit a PB every single session. It’s also pretty much pass/fail so not hitting that PB can mean total ‘failure’.
Back when I was going regularly, we settled into a routine of acceptance where some days you're killing it, others you kinda CBA and everything you touch goes sideways.
One of the last really good days I had, I was feeling all proud of myself. Swung my pack over my shoulder, turned to leave, stood half-on half-off the crash mat and went down like a sack of shit with my kneecap taking the full impact. One of my best climbing days in years and I couldn't walk properly for weeks afterwards because I'd fallen off the ****ing floor.
@aldo56 we were on Crowberry Ridge last week, what conditions! For rope practice (and maybe a bit of confidence) we pitched it and it turned into a ridiculously overlong 11 hour car-to-car, but we were in no rush and spent a good while staring at the setting sun down Glencoe.
I'm going to be weird here and say that I never got anything out of doing routes I could easily manage, instead I spent my time trying things too hard for me or at my limit; failure was the common outcome but when I did suceed the achievement buzz was beyond measure and I would dine off that feeling until the next successful ascent.
When my climbing standard started to drop (getting old and not prepared to compensate by training more) I just gave up climbing as I got nothing out of doing routes at a lower level.
Everyone's different. I did the same with running
When my climbing standard started to drop (getting old and not prepared to compensate by training more) I just gave up climbing as I got nothing out of doing routes at a lower level.
You were operating at a pretty high standard whereas I've never been anything but a keen punter so it's not surprising we get/got different stuff out of it and had different motivations.
I never got anything out of doing routes I could easily manage, instead I spent my time trying things too hard for me or at my limit; failure was the common outcome but when I did suceed the achievement buzz was beyond measure and I would dine off that feeling until the next successful ascent.
I mainly boulder these days but I know what you mean. I absolutely love projecting hard stuff, maybe working out one move a sesssion, figuring out all the little subtlties, the psychological stuff and so on. When you eventually get up a project that's taken ages you never forget it.
But I also love just going out and doing easy circuits. I can happily spend an entire day doing stuff way below my limit, just running round and enjoying the rock and the moves and being outside and just generally messing about. Not memorable in the same way as projecting but it makes me grin.
Jimmy - it really was a perfect day for it - felt like there was no rush at all. Was that Crowberry Ridge indirect you were on? Recommended?
does it have to be sport climbing? The bouldering in Torridon is ace
Hmmm. I'm very much a circuit boulderer rather than projects, so need loads of easy stuff to get in the zone, then gradually build it up from there. So I love Brimham, and 'bleau, but never really got much from other places, Torridon included. I think a few routes would work better.
Have you climbed at Moy? It’s right on your way and there are some great routes but it’s not everyone’s cup of tea.
Mmm. TBH I'm not expecting amazing lines etc. for most UK crags there's usually a damn good reason why it was never developed pre-sport era. So I'm not expecting much. I only rope climb maybe 5 days in a year, so don't have the confidence to be doing big serious trad on HellsLum or anything. Just want to get som e mileage in. If you know something with mellow non serious Sev to HVS then tell me that..
Looks like I’ve got a week free to go climbing towards the end of October. Most likely Yorkshire if the weather plays ball.
Shout if you fancy meeting up in the Peak for a day.
Come to think of it, a trip to Almscliffev for a bit of GW and OHG would equally be amazing.... Been a long time.
If you know something with mellow non serious Sev to HVS then tell me that..
Huntley's Cave, closer to Aviemore.
If it's good over in Torridon then there are a few options. Stone Valley has lots of decent routes in that bracket.
Huntley’s Cave, closer to Aviemore
I tried a search, but all that comes up on UKC are loads of pictures of the Gunks 🙂
It's just north of Granton on Spey, you'll find it on the "find a crag" map.
@aldo56 - it was the indirect route, aye. Yeah I'd recommend it - would like to solo it for the experience as it's fairly exposed climbing out of the gully onto the ridge proper. Would also like to do the Direct route.
Has an STW climbing meet been suggested? I'm really keen to do more climbing but struggle for partners who want to climb beyond Diff grades - not that I'm looking to push grades, but up to HVS kinda territory would be great.
Where you based Jimmy?
I'm in Manchester
Back to this weekend. Any views on the Nose of Sgurr s Choereachan ( sp,)
(Would be a group of three)
Edinburgh.
My other issue is time and planning, but given notice it's usually fine.
Looks good @jimmy, I'm Edinburgh based but not doing much climbing these days, I've started bouldering again with my Nephew at Eden Rock.
I was always happy cruising and enjoying the movement outside (up to about HVS) but inside pushing it.
Back to this weekend. Any views on the Nose of Sgurr s Choereachan ( sp,)
(Would be a group of three)
It's superb and highly scenic. All pretty steady and reasonable pro. Could be busy (by Scottish standards) if the weather is good. There's still a lot of ground to cover up the ridge after the Severe bit including some sections some might want to pitch.
I'm pretty sure I saw a photo of sunset and a barbecue on Sgurr na Ciche in one of the other threads, so assume he did The Nose or a parallel route. (Not really stalking, as such)
Ey up.
Great weekend. Did Cairngorm/MacDui on Thursday.
Friday we did Sword of Gideon from Beallach na Ba.
Couldn't do the nose as we only had about 3 hours.
Awesome camp on the pass.
Then Torridon Lollipop,
with another late finish
Supposed to do Seanna a Mhallaen(sp) on Sunday but with an eight hour drive on the cards I decided Moy would be more sensible.
Really enjoyed it. Lead 5 routes, which is ok as a three. Tried a lovely 6b+ up the middle of one of the walls. Lovely. Took a few big lobs trying to get the chain.
Anyway, excellent weekend. Not quite as hectic as my weekends used to be, but damn good.
Also quite special as my son is now almost the same age as I was last time I attempted Sword of Gideon 30 years ago. Really great to share these adventures with him.
Nice one. How good is Sword of Gideon?
Not changed very much in 32 years, judging by my old photo...
I recall it being steep, exposed and juggy. Brilliant.
https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/6490190
I always had it in my head that I'd like to solo SoG because Patey soloed the FA. Turned up one day with a bunch of mates who were pitching it and just went for it, perhaps slightly emboldened by the fact that they could always rescue me if I bottled it. I obviously had the good head on because I came back down and soloed the direct start. That sort of stuff seems a long way away now!
35deg garden board from when we just built it in June. Now has plenty of wood holds on, some new, some used from a friend and some I made. Also lots more small screw-ons for feet to keep feet off the woods. Some resin slopers added too.
Board is 2.5 full size ply boards + small kickboard on a treated softwood frame. 3 full boards was just too tall for the location, but 2.5 still gives enough board space.
Nice. How practical is that being outdoors? I'm probably a bit further north than you but I know there would be plenty of nights in the winter I wouldn't fancy doing an outside session.
The board is weatherproofed on the back and there's a drip on the top edge so water doesn't run/track onto the climbing face, so it's always dry. But the landing /mat area will get wet. So dry days only really. Faces W so evening sun.
No space indoors, so only option was the garden. An indoor board would be amazing though. Son is asking for a campus board too, so might have to rebuild the pull up bar bit to the R to have a campus board.
You look you have some good height there for your indoor set up . Looks good.
Yeah, it works for me. It's been through a few incarnations. Although I probably had the room for a proper board I didn't think it would have worked much better other than being less boring to train on. I now just take the laptop out and watch something between sets so it's not too soul crushing!
I'm likely to be floating around the North York Moors mon-wed or Thursday if anyone is about. Seems to be the only place with a decent looking forecast!
Got a rack and ropes but most likely to be soloing/bouldering.
I finally got my boys along to Eden rock. Eldest is pretty timid about trying new things but once he got into it he was flying, never stopped ran from problem to problem. Must have ticked off all the 1 grades in the front room about 5 times? his wee pal has been to clip and climb at ratho a few times so that's our next trip. Youngest tried but he's only 3 1/2 so didn't really get it. He liked climbing the dinosaur holds but that soon lost it's appeal, he did get to practice recognising his numbers though.
My nephew is facing his fear of heights and trying routes as well so all is good there.
Is that Eden Rock Edinburgh? I ended up there on Wednesday as it was too wet even to think about riding in the Borders!