The Rock Climbing Thread

We’ve got a hillwalking one, and a winter climbing one and a paddling one so why not? We all need something to do when it’s too dry and sunny to ride your bike. 😉

Share what you’ve been up to, post old pics, post new pics, ask advice, have general rock climbing chat etc etc…

Excellent

To get the ball going, we went to Cummingston yesterday, as did pretty much everybody else. Surprisingly crisp conditions, a bit of bouldering, a bit of soloing and even put the rope on for a couple of routes. Great to be moving on rock in the sunshine again. Off to Reiff today.

Pic of Flakey Wall featuring some comedy spotting.

And a few from last year. Not a classic season for me due to a stupid injury early on but got some nice stuff done.

One of the finest boulder problems anywhere, Poetry in Motion at Rylstone.

Stack of Old Wick summit selfie. An excellent wee adventure.

Little Star, The Balcony.

Wallace and Christie, A Grand Day Out. I strongly recommend this, it does exactly what it says on the tin.

Fallout Corner.

P2 of Pale Diedre. An outstanding pitch.

We’ve got back into it in recent years, after many years off. Generally we’ve all decided we are happy sticking to easy grades now we’re all a bit senior.  Couple of weeks ago we returned to Woodhouse Scar and repeated what probably is the easiest VS on Yorkshire gritstone – twin cracks VS 4c. We then got cold so went to the indoor bouldering wall at Huddersfield.

I want to get back in to climbing properly so hoping to spend more time climbing on Portland this year. That is if it ever stops raining!

Bouldering after work today I think as it’ll be rain on/off the next few days.  Need to decide between close to home/wet at base or further away (1/2 hour) and probably dry grass base

I really should get back in to it. In my teens and early twenties I climbed a LOT, like four or five times a week with weekend trips to the Lakes, Dales and stuff. I realise I’ll never push the grades like I used to but there’s something about putting a sequence together on a boulder problem or on a route.

Grit is one of the things I miss about the UK. I thought I’d climb more whe I moved to bigger mountains but all but stopped apart from occasional bouldering. I’ve reached an age where I can still get up things thanks to good technique but don’t dare pull too hard for fear of injuring something. I enjoyed a trip to Berlin, some excellent and huge bouldering halls.

I’m technically a trad climber first and foremost I guess.  Weather means that I’ve not been out since October FFS.  Still climb indoors.  I’ve not been climbing outdoors for all that long, so still working through the grades somewhat.  Was solid at VS last year, E1 is the goal really.

I’m in Congleton, have a full rack, rope and am often up for a weekend climb if anyone ever needs a partner.

I really should get back in to it.

Username checks out.

When I was at my, ahem, peak I was climbing a minimum of three times a week before life got in the way, though mostly indoors.  I miss it.

Yet another hobby I’ve had hijacked by the kids.

The stuff my 5 year old can get up is insane, but taking him means i can’t climb or he’ll just start climbing random bits by himself. It dies help he can get his foot pretty much to his shoulder.

was climbing a minimum of three times a week before life got in the way,

This is one of the main reasons people drift out of it I think, especially if you have kids. It’s easy and feels worthwhile to go for an hour or two on the bike or running but climbing is half day as a minimum really and more usually a full day.

Yeah, I am in the kids/drift out camp….but now drifting back in. Even when the kids were young we always did some weeks here and there, bouldering or easy trad routes. Now my eldest is quite keen and boulders up to about v5/6 or so indoors. We usually do a font trip per year, various grit weekends here and there. I have just dug out my sport rack, replaced the dogbones and going to hit some sport with my son as he’s keen to get on some steep sport routes soon. Probably will start at Swanage/Portland for sun/sea and sport.

I do hanker a bit after the old days of climbing all the time (sport, trad, bouldering, long road-trips etc), but have to accept that isn’t going to happen much, but to enjoy whatever I can get.

One of my old climbing mates is now very ill. But last year I had a great moment when I took my son, and my mates 2 kids and we all repeated my mate’s route on the grit that he put up 23years ago. My mate and I also have a project that we never finished. I think that one is for the kids now, once they are all a bit stronger, and if they are keen for something a little stupid.

This is one of the main reasons people drift out of it I think, especially if you have kids.

For me really it was geography.  Working together, it’s easy to pop to a wall after work.  When you no longer share a workplace and live in opposite directions it suddenly involves things like “planning.”  I am an Olympic-grade fixer of things when shit goes sideways but the P-Word is anathema to me, I can’t do it.

Ex mid grade at best gritstone trad here. Now seem to have started going to the bouldering gym (oh yes, gym not wall) maybe once a week. Which is not enough to improve (unlike my mtb mates who go more often and can now burn me off). Flailing about on Depot reds… It was fear and endless faff with gear that ended it for me over a decade ago. I keep talking about getting into more easy big multipitch, but if not now when?

 It was fear and endless faff with gear that ended it for me

You need to join the clipstick revolution! I can’t be arsed with all the faff either. I just want to climb and clip the bolts these days*. I am lucky enough to have all the South Wales sandstone within easy reach, plus of course Cheddar 😰.

*I’m just waiting for the all the old gits to shuffle off so we can bolt up some of the once popular, but now neglected crags. DO NOT mention this on UKC.

DO NOT mention this on UKC.

Old git here – definitely mention it and let the dislikes rain down 🙂

I’ve dales lime half an hour or so up the road but it’s not brilliant at the grades where I operate. That said I have heard a bit of huffing and puffing about retrobolting so maybe there’s a bit more to go at since the last time I was out,

Doing indoor bouldering once a week, would do more but that’s all I get a chance to do as it’s in Glasgow. I am improving so that’s something and it’s not hard to fling my shoes in a bag if I’m away on a trip, there are handy  walls in Cheltenham and Gloucester for when I visit the main office.

Flailing about on Depot reds…

Which Depot? If it’s the Pudsey one you can watch me flailing about on reds too.

I’m in a similar position, drifted away from outdoor trad because of kids etc. Now have a sack of gear which is no longer fit to climb on, haven’t even got a functional harness.

Looked up the price of cams the other day and nearly had a heart attack. Would probably cost the best part of 2K to build up a similar rack to what I was using.

Anyway, to remind me of bitd and inspiration to get back on it, here’s a pic from the Diamond on Lundy. I had just had a great time onsighting Diamond Life to the L, then my mate pulled a blinder and onsighted Watching The Ocean. That’s the 2nd pitch in the photo. I then went and snapped a foothold and fell off Widespread Ocean of Fear (to the R)  a day or so later…gutted, but hey, can’t knock good days out on a stunning bit of rock. I am realistic and know that trad at that level isn’t coming back, but some easier stuff and fun sport and bouldering is what I am going to try and get done now.

Excellent thread!

I got into indoor roped climbing in early 2000s, used to go The Castle in London. Got to 6b/6c level. Did a few 7a as well. Then I moved up North and family got in the way.

Last year my daughter and I went to the Depot in Manchester for a look see, and apart from a finger injury and Xmas getting in the way, have barely stopped. She’s doing lots of reds now (V5) and starting the purples. I’m on blacks and pinks (V3-5). I could use dropping about 10 kilos in weight!

We’re planning on bouldering outdoors in the summer. Any advice on good Dark Peak locations with decent mid-level problems would be welcome!

Also, any advice for more aged people on a) training and b) recovery would be great 👍

Which Depot? If it’s the Pudsey one you can watch me flailing about on reds too.

I’m in a similar position, drifted away from outdoor trad because of kids etc. Now have a sack of gear which is no longer fit to climb on, haven’t even got a functional harness.

Looked up the price of cams the other day and nearly had a heart attack. Would probably cost the best part of 2K to build up a similar rack to what I was using.

Aren’t there firms that can re string/spring old cams? I thought the metal bits of a rack should still be okay. I really should check.

And no sooner said, I’ve still got a MOAC somewhere and jesus christ! https://vintageclimbing.com/products/moac-first-generation 149 euros?

And yeah, usually Armley or Pudsey depending on who’s driving. (Still advised not to drive after a head injury in Nov. Impressively dented helmet. Am fine but suspect insurance would say otherwise). Loads I can’t do. Armley reds are harder but I like the setup and I really like the much more inclusive feel there is these days. Even for old gits. .

“I’ve dales lime half an hour or so up the road but it’s not brilliant at the grades where I operate. That said I have heard a bit of huffing and puffing about retrobolting so maybe there’s a bit more to go at since the last time I was out,”

I’m assuming you mean easy stuff. Trollers Gill has recently had some new easy routes bolted. Basically immediately on the right as you walk in.

you assume correctly (Ilkley) though also meant stuff round Settle. Last time I climbed at troller’s was scrappy then newly bolted routes at the top. Not v inspiring and midgey af. Kalymnos it ain’t…

Any advice on good Dark Peak locations with decent mid-level problems would be welcome!

Burbage valley is a good start, with easier stuff on the South boulders, more variety at Burbage North and West for harder.

But it’s often busy. So a nice alternative circuit away( ish) from the crowds is Owler Tor.

For max crowds/scene then Stanage Plantation.

Curbar has stuff for everyone too, so also good. Shortest walk in of all of them to the first boulder which was handy recently as one of our party was on crutches.

“We’re planning on bouldering outdoors in the summer. Any advice on good Dark Peak locations with decent mid-level problems would be welcome!”
The obvious answer is start with burbage north

Edit: just seen Yaks post, i might mean burbage south. Anyway I’m sure you can work it out.

Old photos you say?

How about EBs and Whillans harness?

Predator, Curbar Edge.

Not sure of this one, you could play a tune on that rope though.

I used to doss around on the Eastern Edges and Welsh multi-pitches and grade 3 scrambles. I never really got beyond the classic peak VSes though (a common glass ceiling) but my highlight was Dream of White Horses so no complaints – I remember it like it was yesterday.

Now seen chasing the kids around Sheffield Depot.

I’m going to Onyx climbing wall in Blackburn tonight. This will be only my second trip to a climbing wall in the last 4 years or so. I’m going to cry like a baby tomorrow on the ride into work tomorrow…

Not too far wide of the mark @Cougar. When climbing well I was about 9st 6, now I’m pushing 12st (5ft 9in for reference). I often think it’d be great to go back to some hard stuff but there’s no way my nearly 50 year old body could cope with pulling on crimps like I used to. It also helped that back in the day I climbed with some properly talented climbers (John Dunne, Ian Vincent and Steve Rhodes amongst other) so was always pushing myself to keep up.

Anyway, still no excuses so will dust off the boots this summer and get out and enjoy it.

Took 3 boulders to blow through my skin today – coming off the back of a comp on Saturday though and very little outdoor climbing because of the endless pissing rain

… For more mature climbers who do Facebook – the Grey Power group is worth a look.  Pretty much the only reason I Facebook now

Firstly, does anyone know where the posting bar has disappeared to? Or is it that I use Google in white with black background?
I was a far better trad climber than I had any right to be (as a weakling) climbing almost exclusively in Scotland, I enjoyed French/Spanish sport but found the homegrown stuff a bit meh. I hate walls and bouldering which is probably why my climbing fizzled out about fifteen years ago as there was nowhere to climb stuff I’d not done without driving two hours plus.

Steve Rhodes

He was one of the original trail builders at Stainburn, nice bloke.

Also just heard yesterday that John Dunne has sold the indoor wall at Harrogate, that might be old news of course. That’s our usual go to wall.

Pretty wind blasted at Reiff today. Fish and Chips and a pint in the Am Fuaran now. Not many photos as I was on my own.

Spent a few youthful years focused on Stoney Middleton but you rarely see anyone climb there now. Had  a few trips to Sennen Cove which was a joy.

Sorted pics problem by logging out/in. Run of the Arrow, Cairngorms in 1988. This guy climbed it right after me so got pics from the ab back down. Route got upgraded to E6 a couple of years later.

In Sennen Cove right now @BillMC, definitely not climbing weather! Been raining on and off for the last two days, strong winds and heavy seas. Have done very little on granite actually, spent most of my time on grit and lime. I do like that different rock requires different climbing styles (slate, here’s looking at you). Limestone or quarried grit was definitely my preferred environment.