Stripped cleat nut, can’t remove. What to do?

Hello all,

Any help on the below is appreciated!

I have a set of good condition Shimano MW81 shoes. The cleat nut (where the cleat bolts to the sole of the screw, supplied with new cleats ) has stripped on one. These shoes have only seen road riding for the last 8 years but all weathers, so some corrosion is clearly part of the failure here despite the use of copper grease on the cleat bolts. On my other shoes simply removing the insole allows the cleat nuts to be removed and replaced. On these the GoreTex liner seems to be glued to the sole and I can’t seem to detach it. Attempting to cut an access panel (in case of partial glue-down) seems to suggest thay the full liner is stuck on.

Has anyone else had this issue and overcome it? I’d love to not have to bin these otherwise good condition shoes for want of a simple part.

Cheers

I’ve dremeled or hack sawed a slot across the bolt head/cleat to  enable the  use  of flat bladed screwdriver to undo these stuck  bolts in the past .

Best option is going in via the insole – you will have to glue and reseal it. My MW7s (both pairs) have a foot bed (insole) remove that and there is a sealed in Gortex liner, but I can feel the slots – you’ll have to cut in, remove the bolt plates, replace and re-seal.

You could try to run an m5 tap through the thread to see if it cleans it up/cuts a decent enough thread for a secure bolt fit or possibly use an m6 tap and fit a larger bolt, if you can find an m6 countersunk bolt with a head of similar size to fit into the cleat.

Or if you want to go completely bodge job, I’ve had luck with winding very thin copper wire round the thread of a dodgy bolt then carefully tighten into place,

Or take a small pin punch and give a few whacks around the edge of the pressed steel cleat plate to deform the hole, this may help the bolt to grip

deleted – reading fail!

Dremel slot

Dremel slot

He’s talking about a stripped thread in the cleat plate

Is it possible to use the other two bolt holes in the imbeded plate?

Can we all just take a moment, please, to incant a curse on shoe manufacturers who make their cleat bolts captive and thus unchangeable?

I think cut in from above is your only option. I assume there is a padded sole that you can remove and then a bit you can’t before the plate?  You can reseal it easy enough – either with tape or seam sealer.

If it is glued then some local heat might make it easier. Is there something you could warm and press against the area (like a really small iron? – I’m trying to think what might work).  Hot water might be enough if you can press a container against.

Failing that take it to a cobblers and see what they say?

The issue also is getting in there – looking at my MW7’s (x2) and RW5 then it’s all the top part of the shoe/boot in the way. The newer BOA MW7 looks tricky. Go in with a fine blade once the insert is out.

A cobbler might be the way, if you give them some new SPD plates.

PS I know what OP means about the shoes – best bit of kit I’ve bought my Shimano Boots

Holly thread doppelganger, I have just posted the same issue this afternoon. With the same type of Gortex sealed boot.

Solution was to find the second set of clear threads that had disappeared into the crud and use them.

I might tomorrow have a go at rotating the plate around using a threaded in bolt and a pick. This allows the Gortex seal to stay sealed.

At least two of us are getting ready for a weekend of riding in rain.

I have nothing to add, but I dug out my Shimano winter boots the other day and the cleats are orange and furry. Urgh. Winter.

Interested to know if you can spin the plate around without dismantling the shoe. That would be the perfect option if you can!

I’ve still been using one set of Winter MW7’S for commuting it’s been wet

You can partially detach the insole/liner on many shoes by pushing the plate (4 bolt at a guess) into the shoe a bit, you can then rotate it edge on and slide it out through the cleat slot. Install by reversing the process and then push the liner back into place on the inside. Have done that on a few shoes. Mostly winter boots though.

Many thanks all for the thoughts on how this might be approached. Application of heat and the pressing up the nut is an interesting idea, as is rotating it to slide out of the slots. All of the liner will debond, naturally. Sadly the second set of threaded holes in the cleat nut are no good; far too corroded to bother with, as might be expected with this age and use.

Weld a steel bar to the head

For a heat source you need to befriend someone who builds model aeroplanes (flying models not Airfix).

The covering is shrunk to fit using a small iron on a stick, mine would fit in a shoe nicely.

Drill out the spinning bolt then remove from above or preferably out through the slot.

If you live near NG22 get in touch.

All of the liner will debond, naturally.

Um, no? I debonded about a cm or so “extra” around the cleat pocket. I’ve been using the shoes for another 5 or 6 years since then, can’t even feel the debonded bit.

Any progress OP ?

@mert, I mis-typed “all if the liner…”

No progress but I’ll try to remember to update when there is. I really do appreciate the help of all those giving the ideas above.