What’s the difference between the R & RS? I can’t see where the extra $50 goes.
Is the RS worth it?

the inside of the lever is totally different.

The RS and above have the cam-driven lever (effectively a servo) and the R doesn’t.

That makes for potentially better lever feel etc. I love the RS, I’ve got three sets of them.

The RS also has a bearing in the lever pivot, rather than bushing. I’m running RSCs and really like them

So that’s where the money went.
Anyone tried both?

Didn’t bother trying the R spec, the improvements sold me.

Unless you’re a serial lever breaker that bearing ought to give much longer life without slop, and the servo cam is a major performance improvement on a simple hydraulic master cylinder. I think the R level was really aimed at OEM.

Guides manage a lovely job of transitioning from subtle modulation to outright bite, I’d expect the R level units to be generally bitier and more like old Shimano if you see what I mean. That may be what you want, of course…

Didn’t bother trying the R spec, the improvements sold me.

Unless you’re a serial lever breaker that bearing ought to give much longer life without slop, and the servo cam is a major performance improvement on a simple hydraulic master cylinder. I think the R level was really aimed at OEM.

Guides manage a lovely job of transitioning from subtle modulation to outright bite, I’d expect the R level units to be generally bitier and more like old Shimano if you see what I mean. That may be what you want, of course…

I have RSC on my Fatty Trail. Awesome brakes.

Nothing bad to say about my guide rs – always there reliable and never lacking in power. Nice modulation too. Better than my Shimano Deores – better control and nicer shaped levers.

I have RSCs and have demoed Rs. The feel of the RSCs is much nicer, firmer and the modulation much nicer. The R lever is also pressed as opposed to cast, and bends incredibly easily. I wouldn’t think about the Rs unless money was super tight.

Getting R’s on my new ride as standard..should I swap them over straight away for the XTs from my current bike? Ive read recently that the R’s are still way ahead of the XTs..having not ridden both I wouldnt know..thoughts anyone..

Think R was meant to be OEM – The plunger inside the R (maybe just older versions – not 100% sure) is made of cheaper material that expands in the heat and makes the lever sticky / slow to return. Not such an issue in the UK but I’ve found it to be of some annoyance. Quick Google will show others suffering. Apart from this I love the R range and think they feel better than their Shimano equivalents.

, I’d expect the R level units to be generally bitier and more like old Shimano if you see what I mean

Not really… It’s slightly more wooden yes, but no bitier. Performance wise it’s like you’ve downsized your rotors by 20mm each end over the RS’ too…

RS’ are awesome. Picked up a set of R’s cheap for my Hardtail of the back of the RS’ and was a little disappointed. The R lever is notably more problematic too.

In short, jump from R to RS is well worth it. It’s the jump to the RSC I couldn’t justify at all.

I’m loving my RSC’s so much, I’m considering upgrading to ultimates!

Like mine, a bit of a faff to bleed well though, even with the ‘pro’ kit. The rear on my hardtail is still ‘unpredictable’ – bite point seems to change over the course of a ride.

They were the same on my full sus until after a second bleed.

Seems like it’s worth stumping up the difference for the RS. Cheers all.

Have the standard guides on my spectral 7 ex. Great feel, but a shitbag to get a good bleed. Way harder than tHe elixirs ever were

You must have the mk1 guides, the mk2 (with the bleeding edge tool) are the simplest bleed for any brake. FWIW on the mk 1s ignore the bleed instructions, and focus on pushing oil from one end to the other while rotating the caliper to get the air out, thats where it hides a no amount of flicking levers and opening and closing clamps gets it out (or indeed helps in pretty much any way).

Yeah, earlier version Guides here.

I like them but bleeding them is a real pain.

Bought the official bleed kit in the end but rear brake is still a little spongy.

Benpinnick, do you mean you get all the air out into the lever end (by rotating caliper and pumping oil through) or do you mean you draw the air out at the caliper itself into the syringe with suction aided by the caliper rotation?

Cheers for info! Sorry to go a bit OT too. 😉

RSC – Fantastic! 😀

Guide RS on my Enduro. Really like them.

Ordered the RS. LBS will sort me out at a good price.
Thanks for the input.

Is the only difference between the R’s & Rs’s the lever?

Tymbian – there’s a fair few differences – IIRC the RS has a cam type thing attached to the lever, a different pivot bearing, different lever, and reach adjustment. There may be opher things as well.

Refreshing to hear it’s not just me that has issues with the bleed! As Iv’e said on here before, it’s enough to make me want to sell them! Which is a real shame as other than that they’re great. I can get a good bleed with no mushyness, and when the syringes are still connected they feel great and the reach adjust is bob on. However, as soon as I disconnect either syringe the excess fluid gushes out, and I have to put wind the contact point right to it’s limit, and even then they aren’t where I want them. It’s like I need to bleed them in a pressurised room :/
The factory bleed was perfect though!

I’ve had R’s and RSC’s and think the RSC’s are much better, purely because the lever feel is much nicer. Not had any issues bleeding them (not sure if they’re the Mk I or Mk II).

Having avoided Avid’s like the plague, it was quite a big jump for me (helped no end by the headaches with my previous Shimano brakes).