Should window frames be attached to the masonry.
Just pulked the decorative* window surround to address crumbling plaster and the named storm that blows through the gap.
As i gently prised it i realised the whole shebang is sliding out the wall. Evidently the expanding foam isn’t enough to secure it.
After pushing it back i came straight here.
Should i leave as is or should i be securing the whole shebang with some nice big masonry anchors?
Wrong forum sorry about that mods.Posted 1 year agototalshellSubscriber
seen many held in place with wood blocks then expanding fowm spryed liberally all around.. all made pretty with bits of trim.. folks never know.. saw a house in sale last month with a two inch gap minimum at sides and 4 at top even with the trim once it was dark and bedroom lights on you could see light escaping around outside of frame..Posted 1 year agoprojectMember
Hotel i worked at a huge tilt and hinge window was only held in by foam, we found that out when the damm thing nearly killed us, and a house in chester the front door frame was held in place by being nailed to a strip of plastic L shaped plastic trim jammed into void between brickwork with foam and some blocks of wood.
All windows and doors should be secured to walls with mechanical fixings eg screws or bolts.Posted 1 year agochickenmanSubscriber
Traditional sash and case window casements are held in by wedges in the four corners then plastered up to the inside facing of the weight box. Because of said weight box such windows go against the stonework reveal rather than inside an aperture in the brickwork like other windows. Expanding foam used judiciously will stop the casement flexing in the wind causing the mastic to fall out.Posted 1 year agopslingSubscriber
Yeah, when they removed the original sash boxes they had to build up a subframe, in your case using 6×2. This would normally be fixed directly or with noggins to the stonework but that is not always possible depending on the state of the masonry behind the old boxes. Quite often foam is used especially if the internal finishing involves plasterboard or timber liners over the 6×2 which helps locate it. If you can expose the 6×2 and get a good sleeved frame-fixing into the wall in a couple of places each side then go for it! You may need to pack between the 6×2 and the wall though.Posted 1 year agothecaptainMember
Some of my windows have no frames at all, the glazing is just stuck to the stone with silicone sealant (or similar) and/or held in place with a few wooden pegs 🙂
Shortly after moving in we found one of the lounge windows had slipped down by an inch or so leaving a gap that wide across the top…previous owners must have been wondering why it was so draughty!Posted 1 year ago
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