This subject has been covered alot, so sorry about that, but I wanted just a quick opinion.

I have an Enduro 06 with DHX 5 air

I want to try a coil.

Options ( all three found) open to other opinions, but this was the concensus i got from the old posts.

1 Old fox vanilla RC Pushed cheapish ( is this a good option even if for the short term to try?)
2. Fox vanilla RC 2013 (found one at a very reasonable price)
3. Dueler (loco appears to be the person to get one off)

Considerations – expenditure but also a used shock could be a lemon and therefore not make it a fair test.

Thanks.

I’d be inclined to try the dueler or the newer fox if you can get it tuned to you and your bike. Don’t go for the already pushed fox unless you’re also going to get someone to tune it to your needs and bike.

How old is the old RC?

Around 8 years old.

Mmm. I wouldn’t then unless it’s had a recent full service. Even then it’s a fairly dated shock, but would do the job.

Serviced by TFTuned 18 months ago and not ridden since.

Reading the email i am not sure it was tuned actually, so assume stock but serviced without recent use.

I will be trying a Dueler once Simon(loco) gets them in the size i need.

Pushed Tune is to the bike and the rider so may be well out for your new bike & unfair comparison. Also my fully working DHX5 Coil was great – now it needs a service it’s pants. The old shock may be more hassle than worth.

What size shock are you putting on it?
The 8.75×2.5 that Spesh put on them can be hard to find. If you go for a longer stroke (8.75×2.75) you may run into problems with the piggy back hitting the frame.
You will need to run it with the slack shock shuttle

I run an 8.75×2.75 CCDB coil on my 06 S-works Enduro and it has made vast improvements over the old DHX air. It is a bit more of a pig to climb on but let it rip pointing down and it’s just about as quick as my DH bike.

Of those shocks you’ve listed I’d go for the Dueller over the Fox’s but if you can afford it get a CCDB.

Thanks for the input guys.

I have both shuttles, go point though on avoiding hitting the frame.

never heard of a cane creek double barrel.
Will do some research to try and understand the benefit.

check the manitou Revox, its got a lot of adjustment so it can work for a lot of different frames,

I had a Marzocchi Roco WC Coil on mine. I have the TST version of the Roco too. Both tuned to a tee by Dave Garland. I think it works really well. So much better than the air shock. Choice between the two depends on use.
Only beaten narrowly by the BOS Stoy I replaced it with, and then only marginally. It really makes the bike feel alive.
I know the Cane Creek is good but there are significant advantages to having a shock custom valved just right as you can spend an age testing the CC as the settings are many and wide. I was advised against.
So, Roco:
No tyre rub and I even tried a 2.5 Higroller in the Alps.
You have to use the slack shuttle but you would anyway, right?
I’d sell it, gimme a direct mail? Flatpedalthunder(AT) gmail.com
You near Brighton? You could try it on your bike.

Been using a Double Barrels for a few years,amazing shock,very adjustable(bad for people who dont understand it).
super smooth,very controlled and no stiction

I would question the logic of putting a coil shock in that frame. It’s pretty heavy and a coil shock will add a lot more weight, already pretty duff for pedalling and no matter what damper you put in it,, it’ll never be a dh bike.

I’ve had a DHX air myself a few years ago and I swore blind I’d never have another air can because of it, but that was until I tried the current crop of RP23’s. They are really a fantastic piece of kit and blow previous gen stuff out of the water and better than a lot of older coil shocks too. Worth considering.

dhx airs were awful…

the logic is wanting to try something new, i dont like the dhx particularly, but i dont have anything to compare it to on this frame.

weight is less of an issue, the bike is pretty heavy anyway and if anything could lose a few pounds it would be me first.

the options and opinions appear to be broadening…

as far as i am aware the rp23 isnt made in the correct size

I am in Houston most of the time but home is Guildford and the bike is there at the moment.

Correct me if I’m wrong but would an SX Trail shock not fit the Enduro of equivalent year? If so, there ought to be quite a few DHX coils out there that have outlived their bikes’ chainstays.

Custom tuned dueler by a mile, so much better than any of the Fox DHX3,4,5 and RC’s I have owned and lighter too.

Correct me if I’m wrong but would an SX Trail shock not fit the Enduro of equivalent year

This is going to evidence me as a real geek but the answer is no.

The first year that model enduro was made, 2005, the SX version was identical but it came with a Fifth Excrement shock. The following year the SX version was changed to have slacker geometry and a longer stroke and eye to eye shock, I think 9″ by 2.75″ but I could be wrong. Either way, a lot longer and that is when they changed to Fox. They originally wanted to run Fox dampers on the Enduro but Fox couldn’t build the size they needed so they went with Progressive.

You can run the 2.75″ DHX with a spacer reduction on the travel part. It’s just a big plastic washer that sits at the end of the shaft between the bottom out and retaining collar. The contact issue between frame and reservoir was only a problem on the small size. Medium and Large were fine.

I am going to investigate the Dueler option.

I havent run a coil on a fsr suspension just on single pivot. how accurate at the spring calculators like TF tuned? I am 105 KG was thinking either 450 or 500 for AM use.

The CCDB is tempting (not too expensive in the USA) but it comes with a steel spring adding significant mass. So considering i am trying a coil rather than dead set on one i will discount that option.

Enjoying the education, thanks

geetee1972 – Member

This is going to evidence me as a real geek but the answer is no

Let’s hear it for geeks!

Let’s hear it for geeks!

Huzzah!

OP here is something I highly recommend based on it being what I did to my 2005 Enduro. In 2006 the lower models actually came with 32mm forks and 145mm of travel rather than the full 150mm. Spesh couldn’t source a good enough 150mm fork at a budget that would allow them to hit the right price point so instead they built it as a shorter travel bike.

The shock dimensions were 8.5″ by 2.25″ and it resulted in both allowing a shorter and lighter fork being possible (something like a 150mm 32mm fox or RS revelation would work really well) and a lower BB.

I actually retro fitted a spesh sourced shock to turn the bike into this and it was the best thing I ever did to the bike. It turn it into an absolute ripper. Run with a Lyrik coil u-turn set at 150mm (so longer than an equivalent travel 32mm fork) it slackened off the head angle but still kept the BB nice and low. It was unbelievably quick as a trail bike and the loss of 5-8mm of travel was never missed.

You might be able to get someone to build a shock to those dimensions. An 8.5″ x 2.5″, which is a standard shock, could have the last .25″ blocked off and shimmed to suit the bike (you’d want the progression to ramp up sooner to compensate) and that would be awesome.

Really you should look into this. It made a massive difference to the handling and honestly that was the bike that really changed my riding for the better. Riding that for the first time I suddenly clicked on how to corner faster and how to turn the bike with my hips.

As for spring rate/weight TF is geared to your average rider and will come up softer than Mojo, which takes a more DH racers approach to having a harder rate that causes the bike to ‘skip’ over the tops more. TF adjust for the greater suppleness of the Horst link so the spring rate is harder than for a single pivot.

I think I ran a 500lb on my Enduro when I ran it stock with a dhx5 and I weigh one kilo less than you.