Scott Spark suspension bearing disaster – can you help?

Hello Scott Spark owners. I am dismantling my 2017 Scott Spark 730 (120 mm travel) in preparation to replace the bearings & IGUS bushings.
Last night I rounded out the 20 Nm Torx bolt on the hollow main pivot bolt that is marked 83.5 MM. I managed to extract it with a bolt extractor but it is dead.
I have already purchased the IGUS kit and bearings separately instead of buying the entire swingarm kit.
Now hoping to avoid buying the entire kit I would like to ask: does anyone have a spare hollow bolt that they would be prepared to part with?
With many thanks.

Give Westbrook Cycles a call, I’ve had spares for that frame from the, previously.

In my experience, you’ll really struggle to get the main pivot axle minus full kit. I screwed mine up when I had a ‘moment’ and used a T25 driver to undo it, having forgotten it is T30. Which is the kit you have already bought (part nr.) as I may be interested in buying it from you.

I think I may have a kit / bolt you can have for a few quid. I was going to sell it on Fleabay. PM me for details.

These are well known to be made from the finest aluminium cheese apparently.
My other half has a Scott genius and I stripped it down for full service in the first lockdown, did exactly the same thing as yours. Full kit had to be ordered at the time but that was just me being lazy and that being the easy option. Ordered from Westbrook.

As per previous post, I only created an issue when I used the wrong size (T25) torx driver. I’ve got both the latest Spark and Genius and had no issues on rounding off bolts-you just have to use the correct driver ie T30 and use a high quality torque wrench when re-assembling.

What length is printed on your scrapped axle?
The kit comes with 2 different ones so you want to make sure you don’t end up with a main pivot from a 100mm spark

Thanks everyone.
It’s the hollow main pivot bolt that is marked 83.5 MM.
I have used the correct tools, my torque wrench is nothing special but it usually works okay. I guess I loosened & tightened the bolt too many times – the aluminium seemed a bit lightly built for such a big pivot + 20 Nm.

Sorry. I had a complete reading failure in the OP

Do not under any circumstances use the torque figures they etched on these parts! I snapped one on my genius frame using a torque wrench. It snapped at 4NM and was labelled 15NM (not the one OP mentioned). I was sent a complete new set FOC and they admitted the numbers were BS. Hand tighten them, all of those parts just need to stay put they aren’t load bearing side to side. Use some locktight and they’ll stay put.

Thanks Lustyd. Now you’ve said about them needing to stay put it seems obvious. How bizarre that Scott bother writing any numbers at all if they are not correct. I will adhere to your advice – I shall just halve all of the torque numbers to ensure they’re consistently tight across the bike. On my Spark they state 10 Nm except the main frame pivot which is 20 Nm. The top shock bolt is stainless and requires 10 Nm but reverse thread (which my wrench doesn’t measure) so I have always just done that up as tight as feels right.
I have been kicking myself about this bolt-rounding incident because I am normally careful – a real manual-reader.

Once my LBS ‘checked’ my pivots as part of a service and the bike was creaking like crazy so I backed them all off and re-torqued myself… and then they were okay.

Creaking was what led to all my issues! A bit of a clean and a grease I thought. don’t half the numbers, just do em up until there isn’t lateral wobble and they are tight. Use blue locktite and then leave it dry and you’ll be all good. mine has been perfect ever since and that must have been 18 months or 2 years ago.