RS SID, lockout on forks… what am i missing here ?
Just bought and fitted these forks… However they don’t seem to come with a lockout cable/attachment. I assumed they were manual but seem to be not the case.
3 questions then….
1. Is it my fault or the sellers ?
2. Is there a way of setting it manually so i can ride ASAP into non-lockout ?
3. What do i need to order ?
I assume one of these ?Posted 4 years ago
Dunno mate, only just mailed him.
I don’t think for a second he was being dishonest…. but i can see it costing me £30 to sort this and it means my ride tomorrow and Friday are both canned as i’ve shipped out the forks i removed last night to the new buyer of them already 🙁Posted 4 years ago
That would certainly work short term TINAS yeah.
Would one of these be acceptable for the longer term ? Sorry for the daft questions lads but this has really thrown me a curveball as i wasn’t even considering needing this so not had to research at all.Posted 4 years agosatchm00Member
The lock out wasn’t pictured, sorry I think its your fault.
On the Reba’s you can twist the cap and lock it in place by tightening a screw with an allen key, can’t tell from the picture if it uses same parts.
Also check pressures with shock pump (i’ve made a mistake not adjusting both sides, although it depends very much on the fork!)
If you do a google search you might be able to find a service manual for this model which might help identify what you need to do also.
Hope that helps.
SatchPosted 4 years ago
Now i’m confused then, i can promise you it’s set as default to locked out, i can rotate the blue part on top through 180 deg or so and then it becomes unlocked and i can push the forks up and down.
P.S I don’t mind if it is my fault as such… that’s not the point of the discussion to throw blame about. I just need to know the best way to resolve things.
Had a chat with TF Tuned about removing the cartrisge to remove the spring and it doesn’t seem to be the end of the world…
They came wthout any pressure at all in them so i inflated to about the sticker pressure for my weight.Posted 4 years ago
I’d hazard a vague guess (judging by the strange colour) that it’s off a complete bike – some of which use a dual lockout with the function reversed. There will still be a spring in the stack you can remove though – PeterPoddy did a good guide IIRC – try finding it.Posted 4 years ago
some of which use a dual lockout with the function reversed
It appears so. It’s weird that the inside of the cap on the leg has the cable and barrell, so it’s essentially the reverse of ones i’ve seen which have the barrel in the lever on the bar and cable with a crimped end on the fork leg.Posted 4 years ago
sssimon – Member
take an old gear or brake cable, run it through the cable stop, turn to unlocked, use grub screw to secue and trim off the cable
Result… thank you.. i now at least have forks that work. I’ve made it nice and pretty… it now goes up and down beautifully 🙂Posted 4 years ago
Hmmmm looking at the service manual here
It seems the blackbox at top of fork leg doesnt have the soldered part, just normal cable trimmed and then held with grub screw.
Just need to work out if that means a pushloc lever is the type I need instead?Posted 4 years agoPeterPoddyMember
Things are slightly different since I wrote that guide. Same principal though and fairly easy to do….Posted 4 years ago
BUT once you’ve released the spring it’s going to be a right faff to put it back again, if it can indeed be done at all. So be aware of that.
I don’t like bar mounted lockouts, too fussy and too much faff really.
If you want to have a lever though, I’d get on straight away rather than release the spring then try to put it back. You can easily ride without lockout for a few weeks 🙂
I don’t want/need the lever mate, I just want the forks to work correctly LOL. If it’s with a lever or with a crown adjust/lockout that’s cool.
I’ve also had a reply from LOCO tuning with a bit of info
“you could swap the damper out for crown top adjust (rl £55, RLT £65 or RCT3 £125”
This is deffo sounding like potentially the best option given the circumstances and costs, I can live with that.
Just a question of whether I can swap out the damper cartridge myself if I go for one of them I guess.Posted 4 years agoScapegoatSubscriber
teasel – Member
PPs Conversion PDF HERE if anyone needs it.
I think it was Scapegoat that managed to remove the spring completely. Write his name three times and he might appear…
Once will do it.
Yes, you can disable the spring or remove it completely. Use a 24mm socket to remove the MoCo cartridge, and either use a pick or screwdriver to reach in and remove the spring from its anchor point on the shaft inside the cartridge, or unscrew the top part of the cartridge (it’s left hand thread) and remove the spring completely. Make sure you make a note of how it’s all assembled before you take it apart. I discovered you can reassemble it with the floodgate/damper assembly turned through 180 degrees which stops the cartridge from locking out.
As a heath robinson glove friendly crown lockout solution I used a small pop rivet jammed under the grub screw on the remote spool as a thumb lever.Posted 4 years ago
I’ve taken the slightly more drastic step and it’s being sent off to Loco to have a knob kit fitted which will give me the on/off via the top of fork leg. I know I could have had a quick and easy ‘fix’ but I went to take the bike out just before and my calf that I tweaked when running on Sunday still isn’t perfect, so taking the next few days off riding while the damper is at LOCO isn’t a major issue.
For anyone interested, this is the removed damper just before it went in a packet to LOCOPosted 4 years ago
Anohter minor question if you don’t mind lads.
I managed to pour some/half/unknown ammounts of fork out of the top of my fork leg at the weekend. !!!! Picked up the front of the bike to wheel it out and forgot I have no damper fitted.
Spoke to LOCO and browsed the internet, so have the figure of 96ml of fluid and have ordered the right weight fork oil. (I only had 10W here for motorbikes).
So, it’s just a case of taking the forks off, tipping them upside down and letting the remaining fluid drain out ? or anything else I need to do ? On motorbike forks you can get remaining fluid in the bottom of legs inside the cartridge etc, so just wanted to check with you lot first.Posted 4 years ago
Minor techie question.
When you remove the fluid, it’s necessary to pump the for legs to get all the fluid out of the chambers in the bottom of leg, however when I put it all together, I never thought to do so. My lockout works, I get full travel etc, but unsure as to whether the lower areas are fully filled etc. Now, I guess you could say “well it will all go down there anyway”, but I don’t know if I need to do something as I’ve re-attached the damper and now it’s therefore a sealed and pressurised unit etc. I did notice when putting together that the level was arguably higher than i’d have thought it should be… but never registered as to why.
So should I remove the damper, the air and gently pump it all around ? or is it all good ?Posted 4 years ago
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