Right, so if my Deus cranks won't come off with the self-extractor cap, is this my only option?

I havent a clue about self extracting crank bolts but can you just take it out and remove it with a crank remover??

Not with an X-type chainset XC_PK

if you really can't get it off the proper way (get a decent allen key and a long bastard bar first – I have a 3ft length of steel curtain rod that works) then maybe a few gentle taps on the reverse of the spider might persuade it to start moving.

As might liberal dosage of various releasants (plusgas, etc.)

The fear is that the splines might start to deform in which case the crankset will never fit straight again and once they start to wobble, thy get worse fast.

I did tell you not to get them.

I_Ache – Member
I did tell you not to get them

I believe you did, as I recall 🙁 thing is, that was almost exactly a year ago. And the bearings are still ok! Riding over the alps last week, I was plagued by a creaking which I'm sure came from the BB. Anyway, beside the point.

@theotherjonv – I'm thinking they are on bloody tight – as I undid the 8mm, all felt nice and smooth, I thought the crank was going to drop gently into my hand… instead the top of the self-extractor dropped into my hand.
I've even taken the bike for a ride with no 8mm bolt holding the cranks on. Didn't budge. All those folks who have problems with them coming loose. I wish I f*^%ing did!!

I havent a clue about self extracting crank bolts but can you just take it out and remove it with a crank remover??
Can't find a crank puller with LH thread.

Have you had a go at it with an automotive bearing puller? Essentailly the same as an extractor but with fingers that reach behind whatever your pulling.

No, but sounds worth a shot. Cheers, will take a look

so is the 10mm self extracting cap broken then if that popped out and the cranks didn't? By undoing the 8mm bolt you are turning it in the direction that the 10mm top cap would turn to do up – so it shouldn't come out.

I have in the past on DH Evolve cranks wound out the 8mm bolt a couple of turns (ensuring that the is plenty of bolt in the axel of the crank) and had at it with a hammer to get the thing started. Once moving it was on again with the 10mm top cap and everything went smoothly from then on.

DM52 – that sounds feasible, it sounds like the axle / crank interface has just corroded together. I have a pair of **** up RF cranks in the garage (splines worn) so if DezB wants to try this and mucks up the bolt as a result – I have a spare you can have FOC if you let me have yr address

I got mine about a year ago too, and bearings still good. I've not had to remove yet – luckily.

Allen key with a seatpost on the end usually needed here.

GB

so is the 10mm self extracting cap broken then if that popped out and the cranks didn't? By undoing the 8mm bolt you are turning it in the direction that the 10mm top cap would turn to do up – so it shouldn't come out.

Yep, sorry, wasn't clear there – the action of undoing the 8mm bolt cut through the head of the 10mm, leaving just the threaded part behind and no way to undo it.
I've removed as much as I dare without fudging the threads up – was really hoping to get a puller in there to re-tap the thread, but what with the reverse thread…
Should have a new puller cap arriving in the next day or so, but think that'll probably get wrecked too (if I can actually get it installed!)

Thanks jonv – I'll try DM52's method and get back to you if I need a new bolt!

dezb where are you based?

Waterlooville, Hampshire.

Ok, so the hammer didn't work.

Raceface haven't answered my mail either and I have no access to a machine shop, so f$%k Raceface, I'm never buying their sh1t again.
My next option is:

If I saw through the axle on the non-drive side, will I be able to pull it through from the drive side?

yes, probably, you might need to drift it out a bit if you can't get the purchase to pull it straight / if there's any sticking on the drive side. Alternatively you could cut the axle, then remove the bearing cup and then you will have some axle proud of the BB shell to hammer free

And that's assuming you don't have major burrs that foul against the bearings, which I guess in the worst case would **** the bearings too, but you're only in another £20 if they do anyway, and compared to the value of the crankset or a non-functioning bike that's I suppose bearable.

your lucky, mine keep falling off!

@lank45 – I wish mine would fall off! I've put a drift on the back of the crank arm and hit it with a mallet, hard as I dare. Won't budge!

Thanks theotherjonv – the bearings are just about done anyway, so not bothered about wrecking them. I've ordered a new crank from CRC's sale so the Deus will become an expensive wall ornament.

So, saw the axle, remove the BB cup, whack the axle. Off comes the bastard.

Mine is coming off tonight, wish me luck!

Try removing the 8mm bolt and then (assuming the bb design is the same as shimano) undo the NDS bb cup this might force the crank arm off. Dont put too much pressure on it because you dont want to strip the thread in the bb shell.

I've had a woeful time with my Deus recently so you have my sympathy.

Good luck selling it if you put it on the classifieds after this thread though!

Andy – the bb cup tool won't fit over the crank arm.

Good luck selling it if you put it on the classifieds after this thread though!
No, I wouldn't inflict it on anyone. It'll hang on the wall with the 3 old sq tapers currently decorating the garage.

Here we go. Gave the Yeti a mild sedative, clamped it in the workmate and…
the point of no return

Broken hacksaw blade, so switched to junior. Half way

Few minutes and many drops of perspiration later..

Removed the BB cup

And out comes the piece of crap

Yeti no longer sullied by the Raceface name. Apart from the seatpost and headset dammit!

Also – clamped the axle in the big vice and belted the crank about 6 times. Did not f*&kin budge.