I’ve used fastmail.fm for donkeys years. It’s very old skool these days but I still like it.
Good things:
– they have a nice, no adverts, low graphics, fast web-based front end
– they have IMAP servers for non-web based stuff (mail apps etc).
– you can do clever stuff with multiple mail aliases, custom DNS, virtual domains, writing your own rules in Sieve etc
– they have near perfect uptime with support forums and status pages letting you know what’s going on.
– no one has heard of it so it is rarely blocked.
– I don’t have Google reading every mail I send.
Bad things:
– you have to pay and you don’t get much space for your money. (Lite plan is $10pa for 250MB)