Rear wheel build- same length spokes?

I have dismantled my on one fatty wheels to replace the rim, and noticed the spokes are the same length on the drive side and non drive side.
Is this normal, or should I be ordering different lengths for each side?
I’m using a carbon ICAN rim, and can’t find it on any length calculators.
Has anyone used this combo of El guapo hubs and ICAN rims?

measure the rim and hubs would be my advice. Also take account of any offset spoke drilling too.

This calculator lets you put the offset in so you end up with the correct spoke lengths. http://www.kstoerz.com/freespoke/fullcalc

Same length is possible – they’re often only a mm or two different in any case.

pretty sure my last rear wheel build was something like 285mm ds, 286mm nds so obviously used 286 all round. Different hubs flanges, offset rims etc etc

I’ve never had any issue with DT spoke calculator but I want to upgrade some unusual straight pull hubs, no idea how to work it out for that sort of thing.

should be plenty of thread in the nipple. As long as the tip doesnt protrude into the rim and cause tube damage, and the thread is properly engaged, thats all that matters. Ive always chosen a “middle ground”, but then ive only built “normal” wheels, so the difference was never more than a couple of mm.
I use this calculator:
https://spokes-calculator.dtswiss.com/en/calculator

I’ve just built Halo fatty rims on to Hope hubs and had same length spokes on drive and non-drive side, there was enough thread on nipple to allow me to dish the wheel correctly. Fat bike wheels tend to be easier than many normal wheels as the rim is so wide and stiff.

pretty sure my last rear wheel build was something like 285mm ds, 286mm nds so obviously used 286 all round. Different hubs flanges, offset rims etc etc

I’ve never had any issue with DT spoke calculator but I want to upgrade some unusual straight pull hubs, no idea how to work it out for that sort of thing.
Well I’ve never done straight-pull, but…

It appears from the internets that straight-pull spokes are measured from where the bulb on the end starts (ie the end of the straight bit). Though I haven’t found a manufacturer’s drawing of this. If that is true, you need to measure your hubs accordingly, ie measure the flange hole circle diameter with reference to the outer end of the surface against which the spoke butts (and don’t correct for the diameter of the hole itself). If you were being picky, you would do two calculations, one for the inner spokes and one for the outer spokes (different flange offsets) though splitting the difference would probably do fine.

Well that’s how I’d do it.