Raw finish on steel frames

I’ve recently bought a cheap Cove Sanchez frame and reckon that it would look ace with a raw finish.

I’m torn between a mild ‘rat look’ or trying to replicate the raw finish like Stanton did for the Switchback.

I spoke to my local powdercoaters who are happy to strip it and apply as clear powdercoat. I’m just wary of the finish after blasting if not painted.

Anyone in here done it and fancy sharing tips and pics?

The lacquer will need to go on pretty quick after blasting or it will rust pretty quickly.

Depends on the steel used.
My mate Jim stripped an old steel frame – not sure on brand maybe a KHS – and without lacquering it built it up. After 2 years of riding there was a hint of rust on a couple of the weld areas, nothing more!
He wire brushed it and kept on riding it 😀
Defo steel as we did the magnet check.

It’s generic 4130.

If there is the nice discolouration around the welds, then I want to keep it like that.

If not, I might allow it to rust slightly and clear coat over the top.

I’ve a feeling if it’s blasted to get rid of the paint, you will lose any weld marks and end up with a ‘flat’ finish. This happened on the frames I’ve had blasted, albeit aluminum.

Trying to keep the weld marks, I think you need to strip with chemicals and careful removal by hand.

A dude on Vital bmx talks about doing his frames here…

I’ve tried to dig photos out of an old Kona on Retrobike but they seem to have been deleted a while back.

It was built as a rat bike with the paint stripped and left bare. The frame quickly oxidised but it was very even and seemed to set at a level. I think it looked great and I am toying with the idea for a mark 1 Solaris which I’ve got on the way.

I reckon that as long as it’s looked after and kept clean and so on then it’s not going to cause an issue and even if the rust became aggressive you’ve got the option to get the frame blasted and painted again anyway.

My local frame builder gets his own frames copper plated, bright to begin with and dulls over time, protects frame, looks rattish, cheap.

Kayak, thats the sort of finish that I’m hoping for I think. I really like that. I’m waiting for my local dipping place to call me back with a quote.

The other option is let it rust a bit. A friend had his Sherpa stripped and blasted. He left it in the shed for a few days then had a matt clear coat applied and it looks pretty good and hasn’t really changed.

It’s going to be a jump bike, so it’s not going to get wet and filthy in the same way as my main bikes.

I bought a Raw 45650b almost two years ago, and it still looks as good as when I got it. Go for it, I think they look great!
(Said bike now for sale, I’ve recently bought a FS)

qwerty – Member
My local frame builder gets his own frames copper plated, bright to begin with and dulls over time, protects frame, looks rattish, cheap.

That sounds really cool (mentally files away for a future rat bike build).

I’ve done one raw steel frame, but left it deliberately half-arsed as I was after a definite rat look. Stripper and wire brush (and maybe a tiny bit of fire…) then left for a day or or two before clear coat. Hasn’t changed much in the year or so since, maybe a little dusting of extra rust but it’s all good.

02e by Rob P[/url], on Flickr

6176497602462516370-01 by Rob P[/url], on Flickr

20150909_101530_Millwood Way by Rob P[/url], on Flickr

I’ve seen that kona mentioned above, it didn’t look bad at all. The rusty kona I have in my cellar looks a real mess and my other old kona is rusting under the original paint. I think the quality of the steel makes a big difference.

OKOKOKOK – my MK1 Blue Pig looks like shit.

Anyone tried stripping one? Tempting! ! ¬.¬

I’ve done loads of raw frames steel and ali.

Any mechanical removal of paint will also remove any heat marks.

Chemical dip/strip only, powder coaters are usually a bit heavy handed when blast cleaning stuff especially ali frames.

DIY stripping – only buy ‘industrial/professional ‘ use paint stripper with methylene chloride in it. Follow safety instructions carefully. Eco/human friendly nitromors is crap.
Green Scotchbrite pads and cheap copper metal brushes from eBay are great when stripping /cleaning.

Raw steel frames will rust even when carnuba waxed.

Have a search through my posting history for my Evil Soverign, I ran it bare for awhile and then powder coated it before I sold it.

Currently running a bare/scotchbrite’d Nukeproof

RustyNissanPrairie – your old Evil looked very smart. Like that even though it’s not the ‘rat look.

colournoise – that looks pretty rad.

I’m going to pop over to see them later on today to see what they can do. The local chemical stripping guys wants shed loads just to strip it.