Those x fusion forks are amazing value. I have a set and can’t believe they’re selling them that cheap

Tokens should be attached to the lower of the Iva top cap. They stay inside the air shaft. Amount above or below the seal in there determines how much air volume is reduced.
Makes more sense when you take it out.

Black plastic bits in the bags are for reducing travel.

Can’t remember what the other bits are for. Maybe for when the travel Is upped to 170 for 26’’?

Thanks Simon, the metal bits are for the travel reduction 150 & 140mm.

Mine has arrived and can double confirm the travel spacers are included. Also looks like the ambiguous answer to the question on CRC has gone so I guess there was confusion there.

Lovely looking forks – wasn’t expecting them to look so good for some reason. Can’t wait to try them.

Keen to try mine too but I need to get some wheels before I can complete my first 27.5 build.

I see it says the brakes are 180mm by default. What if you have hope 183mm rotors? Is it ok just to stick 3mm of washers under the calliper ?

This is what came in the box…I think the black plastic bits are the travel spacers.
What are the metal bits?

that’s the HBO – when you convert between 26/27.5 you have to change the HBO. So the 27.5 fork will have the 26 HBO and vice versa.

So could you convert these forks to 26 ?

You can convert to 26 if needed. The offset is in the fork crown though. In terms of a2c height there’s not much difference between 27.5 and 26.
Cheers

If you look at the mtbr forum shocks-suspension there is an active mattoc thread which has loads of info on servicing, changing travel etc.

roverpig – Member

So could you convert these forks to 26 ?

lowers them by 10mm it also means you can run them at 170. I’m running them as 27.5 on my 26

Thanks. I’m toying with sticking a pair of these on a 26″ Five. The current Fox Float 32s are not exactly the stiffest thing in town. My concern is that, even lowering these to 140mm, it’s still going to increase A-C by around 25mm. Now I did have a pair of 26″ 150mm Pikes on there in the past, which have around the same A-C as the Mattocs at 140 and I actually preferred them. But still, it would be good if there was the option to decrease the A-C a bit more if it did prove too much.

Mine turned up yesterday. very very nice set of forks. can’t wait to get the travel reduced and put on the bike.

Seems like CRC are flush with great 160mm forks with the Mattoc @ £315 (with BC discount) and Pike RCT3 for £374… Not much more… I like Manitou but I also like the build quality and parts availability of Rockshox, what to do!

My concern is that, even lowering these to 140mm, it’s still going to increase A-C by around 25mm.

Eldest_oab has some Marzocchi AM1 SL’s on, probably the longest A-C forks around. They don’t slow him down any….

Just bought some x fusion sweeps for £241 if you want another option. Rose bikes:

https://www.rosebikes.co.uk/products/brand/x-fusion/

Made a nice upgrade from my old Lyrik. If anyone doesn’t want their white decals I’d happily throw them a few quid for spares!

tom – are you selling the lyrik?

Made a nice upgrade from my old Lyrik. If anyone doesn’t want their white decals I’d happily throw them a few quid for spares!

I’ve been considering some of these and will be doing the same ‘upgrade’ but those stantions look really spindly compared to the Lyrik’s. ❓

Just thinking about this, is this is a clever move by Manitou? Fill the aftermarket with a cheap affordable (and actually pretty damn good) fork, supply it to everyone’s favourite online retailer, and let the talking and sightings lift the Manitou name again.

Test riding mine tonight. they feel ace in the parking lot test. far burlier than they look in that pic as well.

They’re only 1 mm skinnier than the Lyrik stanchions, I think the black slenderises them a bit. If anything it’s stiffer, front to back, but then it’s a tapered steerer. Looks beefier on the bike.

tom – are you selling the lyrik?

It’s already earmarked for a friend’s Stumpjumper project, but I’ll let you know if it falls through

What about attaching a mudhugger to them?

Seems perfectly doable with some extra holes

I made my own mudguard but I think Mudhugger recommend just attaching around the fork leg and not the crown on Manitou forks.
EDIT from the Mudhugger site “We are often asked if the Hugger can be fitted to Manitou forks with the reverse fork brace. The answer is yes! By ignoring the reverse fork brace altogether and using extra zip ties on the fork legs the Hugger performs just as well as on any other fork.”

Here’s my DIY guard

tomvanhalen – Member
Made a nice upgrade from my old Lyrik. If anyone doesn’t want their white decals I’d happily throw them a few quid for spares!

Do the original stickers come off easily?
The red clashes with the orange on my frame 🙄

@Simon very easily. They leave a very faint shadow behind, but I didn’t try cleaning them with alcohol after as I used that to line up the new M

I don’t know where to buy a new air spring for my 34’s costing £149.95 or use the money to buy a new fork.

Wonder what the availability of spares is like for these?

Having just repaired the central heating for no money and rebuilt a saggy non serviceable KS Supernatural dropper, again no money.
I’m struggling to resist ‘investing’ in a set for my hardly used Arial so I can run 27.5 wheels on it and knock best part of a kilo off its weight. But will I ride it…

Been reading as much info as I can on these, still undecided.

I read some comments about having to over tighten the stem clamp bolts to hold the steerer?

It seems that the IRT kit makes a lot of difference to the fork. The tool kit is also another £40 to factor in.

I’ve had 5 or 6 hard rides on my Mattoc Pro now, including 1 at LLandegla (for what that’s worth) and a day in the Lakes (4500 feet of descending). No need to overtighten the stem bolts. 5nm is fine (I even used a torque wrench…)

I was set on buying the IRT since everyone seems to, but I’ve not felt the need for it yet. I usually run a lot of spacers/oil in the air chamber on my forks to help them ramp up but I’ve not felt the need yet on the Mattoc, the lsc, hbo and sag are working well to keep the fork high in its travel and supple enough. I will probably ride it like this until the next lowers service then try the IRT.

The tool kit is worth it if you care at all about keeping on top of maintenance or want to do it yourself. Even with the kit it’s still less than £400 for a really good fork.

Cracked and ordered a set, I’ll be interested to see how they perform against my 2015 Pikes.

I also finally cracked and ordered some and the tool kit.

I tested the 2 zip ties around the leg method for the mudhugger with my old fork and it seemed solid enough. Not as rock solid as with ties also around the arch though.

Being delivered by Yodel, I hope they arrive ok.

I use a mudhugger with mine with ties around the arch, just make 4 new slots, it’s not difficult.

Is there supposed to be visible oil on top of the air spring? Can only see Slickoleum grease on top of the piston.

Just grease on the new air spring assemblies.

OK thanks.

How are you guys finding these?
I’m fairly Happy with mine at 80psi (90kg) and with no HSC LSC damping
I’ve got the IRT coming from zee Germans so I can run less pressure.

Loving mine. Around 13stone and 80psi too, 1 or 2 clicks of lsc, 2 hsc and 1 of hbo. Not felt the need for irt yet.

Any new owners should drop the lowers to grease the seals and check/replace oil, mine were completely dry. They’re buttery smooth now.

Is there supposed to be visible oil on top of the air spring?

Yes a tiny amount to lubricate the seal there , however depends in wether you have the newer dual seal or the older type as to wether it stays or not , you may also find running them at 140 mm can cause a bit of an issue