Paddling the Spey in August

Looking to paddle the Spey in August with my 13 year old and some friends. We paddled the Wye a couple of years ago and had a great time. I’m thinking of refreshing some kit as I might do a bit of bike packing next year too, so thinking lightweight and packable. Questions….!

1. We would usually bivvy under a tarp but I’m assuming midges will eat us alive at that time of year. Am I wrong? I’ll probably take a tent or tent inner.

2. Mate is starting in Newtonmore, we will probably pick him up at Aviemore. Campsite recommendations in Aviemore? Wild camping the rest of the trip, recommendations?

3. New sleeping bag, Rab Solar 1? Warm enough for a Scottish summer? I tend to run warm and can combine with a bivvy bag. I’ve always used down bags and risked a bit of dampness, but it seems like synthetics pack down pretty well these days.

4. New sleeping mats. What’re folks using/recommending these days? I’ve got a thin and short Therm-a-rest fast and light pad from 20+ years ago, figure things may have improved since then!

5. Cooking pans. 25 year old Tefal set has seen better days. MSR look to do some nice bits (I have an MSR stove)

Thanks!

EDIT

1. I personally would tent it, for midgie reasons

2. In Aviemore I don’t think there is much option for wild camping – or even site camping *in* the town anymore @scotroutes may be able to help, but I have always started from Aviemore generally. Sites downriver –
– Broomhill bridge, under the bridge basically or where the Dulnain comes in
– Tomvaich area Island (superb site)
– Rothes Island (good site)
– Finish Spey Bey (campsite if needed)

3. Be reet. You are canoeing so have space, so take a blanket as well. Can be used around camp too if you are cold.

4. Whatever you have will be fine.

5. Again, whatever you have will be fine.

6. Note the finish area near Spey bay had a few trees down apparently, and near full channel apparently, and I have no first-hand information, but it was a thing this spring

I am assuming you know that the Spey is a couple of step up from the Wye in terms of difficulty of water, three steps up in speed and power of the water and four steps up in being self sufficient for rescues on some very long stretches of wide and fast moving rapids?

https://flic.kr/s/aHsjCDC7Ja

Midges would deter me from a bivvy only option. Id possibly take it and use it if it was suitable weather ie breezy. There’s mozzies too of course. Pack a head net

Sleeping mats what you have will be fine, maybe boost with a karrimat. Modern mats are lighter, warmer etc but fundamentaly the same

My biggest concern would be water levels in August , which is difficult to mitigate. Personally I’d be praying for rain!

Great trip though!

Can I also add: a Spey descent is one of THE best adventurous trips you can undertake in the UK IMO. Even if you are not a paddler, book in with a tour company, ideally in autumn, and just enjoy day after day of amazing views, rapids, distilleries, coffee stops, wildlife, camping and ever changing atmosphere. It is one of my favourite places, and I am slowly persuading mrs_oab to go for it again this autumn…

book in with a tour company

Any recommendations @matt_outandabout? This is on my bucket list ever since I first saw the Spey and then saw it done on the Adventure Show.

How far you planning on paddling down? And over how many days and in what craft?

This is a good book – https://www.pesdapress.com/index.php/product/river-spey-canoe-guide/

Personally quite like the section you seem to be missing out. A lot of folk get out at Fochabers and miss out the last section to the sea at Spey Bay. The river does some weird things in that last section, splitting and twisting and the clear route through changes every season with hidden tree debris and the like.

In terms of distances, you’ll be surprised how far you’ll travel each day. Unless the water is super low (and it might be in August fingers crossed!) it flows a lot faster than the Wye.

If you’re interested I could probably pull out my notes and see where a DofE silver group I organised (but was not on) camped.

Don’t underestimate the Spey.  A poor lady died the other week just upstream of Aviemore paddle boarding. Not sure if exactly what happened is public yet but it sounds like it was a paddling accident rather than a health issue.

Finally, if you want to take the adrenaline up a notch and there’s enough water in the rivers, why not add a day on the Findhorn at the end. Do a packraft or a raft adventure with Ace Adventures just down the road from me to see what grade 3/4 water feels like. I’m biased but the Findhorn is next level again in terms of beauty – it sometimes feels like you’ve been teleported to Canada.

I’ve not done it either and a bit of a newbie, at least in open boats, my formative uni days were spent swimming alongside a kayak in Scotland’s finest grade 5s! But I have done the Wye and I believe the Spey is an altogether different prospect, for example Moab didn’t take all those throw lines just to rig tarps!!! Also I expect it to be a bit of a scrape in August.

The Tay might be another option, a bit more water sure, and the difficulties a bit more localised especially if you start in pitlochry and avoid grandtully.

Another option is the Tweed, again a scrape at low water. We did stobo to gala over two days and it felt a good step up from the Wye, and definitely a step up. After gala I think there are a few Caulds but the trip out to Berwick sounds fun with a grade 3 you may want to portage.

Double post.

Thanks Matt. Will tent it then.

I am assuming you know that the Spey is a couple of step up from the Wye in terms of difficulty of water, four steps up in speed and power of the water and a step up in being self sufficient for rescues on some very long stretches of wide and fast moving rapids?

Yep, definitely aware it’s a step up. I’ve done a bit of kayaking over the years, although sea kayaking expeditions rather than white water, so think we should be OK. My lad hasn’t done anything other than the Wye but he’s pretty fearless so should manage some low level rapids OK. I just watched a couple of Youtube videos of the Washing Machine and Knockando, I think we’ll be OK on that but assume worst case we can line down the worst bits if we need to (not expecting to need to).

My biggest concern would be water levels in August , which is difficult to mitigate. Personally I’d be praying for rain!

Presume you mean so there is enough water? Or so much that the rapids get drowned out? When we paddled the Wye a couple of years ago it was VERY dry and the river was really low, had to do a lot of dragging.

How far you planning on paddling down? And over how many days and in what craft?

To the coast ideally. Reckon 5 days from Aviemore should be plenty if there is enough water. Will be in an inflatable canoe

If you’re interested I could probably pull out my notes and see where a DofE silver group I organised (but was not on) camped.

That would be great, thanks. No worries if you can’t find them though.

Don’t underestimate the Spey.  A poor lady died the other week just upstream of Aviemore paddle boarding. Not sure if exactly what happened is public yet but it sounds like it was a paddling accident rather than a health issue.

That’s terrible news. I’m too old to take anything for granted these days. In fact watching a couple of YouTube videos just now makes me think I ought to dig out some old climbing helmets just in case. Also have some throw lines somewhere.

Finally, if you want to take the adrenaline up a notch and there’s enough water in the rivers, why not add a day on the Findhorn at the end

Sounds awesome but I think we’ll get enough adrenaline without that 🙂

Midges, no issues when we did it in August and i get eaten alive…

You’ll probably get well **** ill from the water.

Pickle Island is the best bit.

Presume you mean so there is enough water?

Yes this, but obviously not much you can do about it given fixed times.

It’s an issue on most rivers of course.

I did the Severn source to sea a few years back, a few days before we left it was in flood, and we caught it as the water was dropping. Was a fantastic run in early autumn.

@fazzini

I know a couple I would suggest:

Based in Aberfeldy, but run a flipping brilliant Spey trip IMO. – https://www.beyondadventure.co.uk/

Based in Sheffield, a good friend of ours, some of the Spey pics on his site are a couple of the trips I have done with Dan. Informal, personal and great for a group looking to book together: – https://www.dcoutdoors.co.uk/

David has a good reputation, and has probably paddled the Spey more than anyone alive: – https://www.spiritofthespey.co.uk/

TBF low water on the Spey is usual, low enough to really cause an issue less so. It seems, like all bigger rivers, to often have a ‘path through’ at low water. It is just damn hard work without the assistance of good flow….

I did one day on staff training back in the late 1990’s where we did Grantown to Fochabers in a single day, with minimal effort as everything was all but washed out, a good group, and a flow which rocketed us along nicely…

The joy of flood!

Yep, definitely aware it’s a step up. I’ve done a bit of kayaking over the years, although sea kayaking expeditions rather than white water, so think we should be OK. My lad hasn’t done anything other than the Wye but he’s pretty fearless so should manage some low level rapids OK. I just watched a couple of Youtube videos of the Washing Machine and Knockando, I think we’ll be OK on that but assume worst case we can line down the worst bits if we need to (not expecting to need to).

I would suggest you get a days white water safety and rescue / white water coaching. Always a good idea.

If you don’t, get some flipping big throw lines and know how to use them. Learn to avoid big water rather than pointing and hoping. Read the guide well and know which few rapids can cause issues on the Spey. Make sure everything is tied in well and you and lad can swim with a gert big swim line…

And more pics from another trip:
https://flic.kr/s/aHskKhoQmq

I have done the Spey twice. Once from Loch Insh (May Bank Holiday – 3 days to Spey Bay), and once from just above Grantown (October – 2 days to Spey Bay).

We camped at Boat of Bailliefurth and in the park (Fiddich Park) at Craigellachie.

Both times we had high water. Both time there were no midges. Mixed group but including very experience paddlers. Both times had swimmers and fully laden boat recoveries. Not too arduous, but you need to know what you are doing – Ropes, moving water and humans are not a good mix.

I am uncertain if an inflatable canoe is the best craft for the trip. They don’t have the same volume of space for your gear, and may prove challenging to control if loaded. I have no experience of canoe-camping with one though.

In an open boat, weight distribution makes a massive difference to handling, not just in 2 dimensions, but how it rides through waves. One of out swims was a pair of less experineced paddlers Hawaii-5-O-ing into the Washing Machine. They were positioned at the front and back of the boat, and the hull sliced clean through the waves at the speed they were going, and the boat was swamped from both sides simutaneously. They’d have been better to both move the the middle of the boat, and go slower. Fast enough to have control, but slow enough to allow the bow and stern to rise and fall over the waves.

The Spey is a brilliant multi-day trip on a fantastic stretch of river. Stay safe and have fun.

They were positioned at the front and back of the boat, and the hull sliced clean through the waves at the speed they were going, and the boat was swamped from both sides simutaneously.

That is common there! Dive, Dive, Dive….

I have also seen an experienced pair swamp on the lead in as well – they didn’t even make the main tongue.

While most of the time it is just bouncy fun, it is with novices a 20-30% swim rate IME….

I am uncertain if an inflatable canoe is the best craft for the trip. They don’t have the same volume of space for your gear, and may prove challenging to control if loaded. I have no experience of canoe-camping with one though.

Ordinarily I’d agree, but this one is pretty sturdy and has a good amount of space. This was on the Wye a couple of years ago

There were three of us in the boat, and we were carrying some gear for friends too will only be two this time. It handles a lot like a rigid boat.

Canoe camping:

Aha! A Drop Stitched one! Yes. I think that will be fine, and I really hope it is, as these look excellent. It is a total different world from the “inflatable saussage” types. Ir will be rigid and track well, with plenty of internal space.

I would like a couple of these to so some touring abroad. The thought of driving from Scotland with 2 open boats on the roof fills me with dread – fuel costs alone…

The thought of driving from Scotland with 2 open boats on the roof fills me with dread – fuel costs alone…

Would you believe that on the Galaxy if I arranged 2 boats in slight V shape but flat on the roof (fronts narrower) you could hear the less wind noise at it barely made a difference to MPG. We did Scotland to south of France and managed 40mpg…

Ford Galaxy bike rack canoes by Matt[/url], on Flickr

Aha! A Drop Stitched one! Yes. I think that will be fine, and I really hope it is, as these look excellent. It is a total different world from the “inflatable saussage” types. Ir will be rigid and track well, with plenty of internal space.

Yep, it’s a pretty awesome boat, they are rated up to Grade IV white water. Tracks really well even without the removable fin. Definitely better than the inflatable sausages!!!

@matt that is amazing, it must have taken you a day to load and unload!

There is a 5th bike inside…
Best holiday we have ever had – if you want paddling like the Spey but with a warm Mediterranean climate, the Massif Central / Auvergne is all the brilliants for holidays…

@matt_outandabout I struggle to believe they had an insignificant effect on mpg. Even a relatively streamline roofbox has a noticable impact IME. Bikes on the back, not so much, and a 7’x4′ camping trailer, fully in the slipstream, hardly any, but 2 mahoosive air-brakes on the roof…

Other than the cost of crossing the channel, I’d rather tow them on a trailer.

but 2 mahoosive air-brakes on the roof

Pointy, hollow windbrakes please….

If the river is low, the section from Newtonmore to Loch Insh is best avoided. It will be a shallow scrape down to Kingussie, then very slow flow to Loch Insh.

The standard river running advice to never commit to water that you can’t see is crucial on the gravelly section below Fochabers; there could be a fallen tree in the middle of the current.

Otherwise it’s great, I’ve done it 3 times now (always in winter).

but 2 mahoosive air-brakes on the roof

I doubt that makes much difference when you can’t get above 30mph because the back tyres are rubbing on the wheel arches 😀

• The standard river running advice to never commit to water that you can’t see is crucial on the gravelly section below Fochabers; there could be a fallen tree in the middle of the current.

That’s what I was intimating further up – maybe a little subtly. Whilst the washing machine is just a grade 2 (3 at a push in higher water….maybe, but it’s just a grade 2 in reality) it’s very Ronseal. The lower Fochabers to the sea section is far more dangerous to the uninitiated imo. It’ll be totally unremarkable 95% of the time…..until it isn’t.

Your boat looks great, very nice. It’ll be fine, I use a klepper for trips like this and the only thing I worry about is concrete constructions in the river which are easily avoided. They are horribly abrasive on the hull. River rocks are generally smooth in comparison and there’s no impact like you get with composite boats

Can you get on a train or bus at the end? We take the klepper on public transport, it’s flipping awesome for long way trips

If I’d seen your boat a few years back I’d have been tempted

Thanks kormoran. I’ll be driving up from the south east and probably leaving the car at Aviemore. You can get back on public transport I think but it’s quite an effort. I will probably get a cab back to the car, and then drive back to Spey Bay to pick up the boy and kit. The boat packs down to a reasonable size but it’s still a bit of a lump to haul around with everything else. Probably a bit bigger than a large suitcase, but pretty heavy.

convert and greybeard – appreciate the comments about Fochaber and below. I’d imagine as well as unexpected debris it’s also pretty tidal there? Always interesting where river meets sea.

@matt_outandabout and @scotroutes

Pretty much all set for this trip, just trying to work out the best starting point. Mate is arriving by train to Newtonmore, but the Spey Bridge campsite is closed. I’m trying to work out where best to start from so we can camp Saturday night and set off Sunday morning. Ideally somewhere where I can safely leave my 13 year old with our kit while I drop the car at Spey Bay and cab it back.

Considering Loch Insh water sports but want to start as high up as possible. Kingussie an option but it looks like a schlep from the campsite to the river access point.

Any ideas or recommendations? Would it be better to park my car in Newtonmore somewhere and organise a shuttle with the boy and kit back from Spey Bay?

I would start at Kincraig. The shuttle will take a while. If the midges are out your lad might be devoured by your return.

Nae midges in Kincraig today. Just glorious sunshine and a nice southerly breeze.

+1 on Kincraig / Loch Insch water sports.
How much water is there at the moment?

And at 13 I wouldn’t have a problem leaving him for a shuttle, particularly at the watersports place.
We’ve also locked boats before with cable lock in Aviemore and at Spey Bay before and not worried about theft.

The nearest campsite to your start point would be Dalraddy, although you can also camp in Kingussie at Highland Horse Fun https://highlandhorsefun.com/kingussie-camping-aire/. Your mate would just have to stay on the train for one more stop.

If you go in at the Ruthven Bridge, the river from Loch Insh is very slow. I’m not convinced it’s always worth the effort but it might work for your logisitics. Asking nicely at HHF you might be able to procure a lift down to the bridge.

Loch Insh have a policy of charging for access to the water from their land. The more normal access point is just at the end of the loch, downstream of the church, upstream of the bridge. I can’t think of any decent camping spots along that stretch, though it’s possible you might find something on the left bank just as you hit Kinrara estate (i.e well before the house).

You’ll be getting your feet wet a few times.

Ooft, if it stays like that it’s going to be slow and involve a few walks I suspect…

http://www.paddlescotland.org.uk/go-paddling/wheres-the-water

click through to the spey gauges, it is very low. Updates daily