Well finally got my hands on a Scandal frame from STW and got a few questions

I know that the scandal can take a 100mm travel fork, but is that the max it can take or is it just better at 100?

What sizes are the seat post and clamp ?

Any recommendations for decent, but not expensive XC tyres ?

i may have to get it powder coated (the recipient of the bike is really after a black bike) and have rung a few places and checked re getting an aluminium frame powder coated and they all assure me it’s fine and its routine.

Is it really ?

Thanks

seatpost 27.2, clamp 31.8

VI or VII?

as above, V1 is standard 1 1/8th headset and a straight seat tube. V2 can take tapered forks and has a cranked seat tube.

Both I would say are max 100mm forks and V1 is definitely 27.2mm post, 31.8mm clamp. Got one here I need to clean up and sell. Lovely frames, replaced mine with a Solaris and so far missing it while I get the Solaris set right for me.

Didn’t the 29er only appear at VII? <I may well be completely wrong>

V2 has the bigger seat-tube.
I think it works best at 80mm travel. Keeps the front nice and low and the handling sharp. Depends what you prefer though.

Tyres, snakeskin ralph/rons from Germany in 2.25, or saguaro/barzo 2.2s in tnt if you need the strength or standard if not.

2.2 Max rear tyre if running a front mech. V1 were 29″ too. Go for a short stem.

There’s a hope qr and an on one bolted clamp in the box btw 😉

on my V1 I cut the bottom pull arm off the FD to get extra clearance.

if you need a front mech i have a 34.9 silver deore one, thats had the modification so you can run a tyre over 2.0.

This was on my mk1 scandal…. Email in profile.

I’ve got an original 29er and the bb is plenty high enough with a 100mm fork, wouldn’t fancy a bigger one.

I had trouble fitting a fat 2.25″ (or thereabouts) tyre and a front mech, this was easily solved by dishing the rear wheel over a few mm, there was plenty or room on the non-drive side for the tyre nobbles. Didn’t notice any effect, not even having to lean a bit when riding hands-free. (Now gone oneby.)

Frame still forms a great basis for an XC bike in my view, with the versatility to go more cx or touring mode (though I haven’t really explored that.)

ETA my front mech was a top or bottom pull one and I had to hacksaw off the arm for bottom pull to provide tyre clearance.

Thanks guys

Reason for asking about forks is there aren’t any black rockshox reba in 100mm travel for sale

How can I tell if the frame is a v1 or v2 ?

VII has a flared head tube and a kink in the seat tube is the quickest way at a glance.

I have V2 and 100mm forks and belive it is a 31.6 seatpost size.

Currently running 2.2 tyres on it and wouldn’t want to go any wider.

2.4 racing ralph works fine on the rear in mine, but not with a front mech. mine is the horizontal dropout version if that makes a difference…

Powdercoat will add a fair bit of weight (in proportion to the very light frame). If it’s painted already, don’t let anyone media-blast it in preparation unless you really trust them – get it dipped.

Powdercoat will add a fair bit of weight (in proportion to the very light frame). If it’s painted already, don’t let anyone media-blast it in preparation unless you really trust them – get it dipped.

Am I better off getting it re-anodised ?

My local finishers are very good – have used them before, but they would sand blast, etch prime, powder ooat the frame.

Didn’t think it would add that much weight ?

How can I tell if the frame is a v1 or v2 ?

Also the cable routing differs between them.
If its on the toptube it’s v1, if it’s on the downtube it’s v2.

Didn’t think it would add that much weight ?

I’ll guess at an extra 200g compared to anodizing. That would be more than a 10% gain in frame weight. That might not bother you at all, but I wouldn’t do it to mine.

100mm sounds a bit conservative for max fork length, I wouldnt be too worried about sticking more on…I previously stuck 130mm Revs on my Scandal V2 29er although they were dual position so i could drop to 100 when required

Very versatile frame: mines currently in a sort of cross 29er build with rigid carbon forks and veerubber 1.75 rail tyres…very nippy

I had trouble fitting a fat 2.25″ (or thereabouts) tyre and a front mech,

Smorgasbord 2.25 was my rear tyre choice when built up for trail riding…no clearance issues. Nice big Hans Dampf up front.

I thought my Scandal was sweetest with the On-One carbon fork. Makes for a really light bike too. 🙂

V1:-

1.1/8″ straight head tube
27.2mm seat tube
31.8mm clamp

V2:-

Tapered head tube
31.6 seat tube
34.9 clamp
replaceable dropouts
bend in the seat tube

Didn’t the 29er only appear at VII? <I may well be completely wrong>

no, there are two versions of 29er.

Also the cable routing differs between them.
If its on the toptube it’s v1, if it’s on the downtube it’s v2.

My V2 only has rear brake hose down the down tube, everything else is under the top tube.

epicyclo – Member

I thought my Scandal was sweetest with the On-One carbon fork. Makes for a really light bike too.

This one (it’s my old frame) came with an OO carbon fork and I did enjoy that too but I had 100mm Rebas in it most of the time. Resurrected, worn-stanchioned, pound shop Rebas 😆 TBH, I wouldn’t mess with lengths, 100mm was grand.

(admission of failure; I sold it because I’ve forgotten how to ride without a dropper post; bought some no-name 12k carbon monstrosity from ebay for £80 purely because it has a 31.6 seat tube and I can drill a hole in the side then throw in one of my reverbs when the urge takes me. Obviously when I do my one XC race a year I need a #enduro 170mm drop Reverb)

29er inbred here. Just read this after seeing andyl’s post above. May try taking the hacksaw to my mech… clearance