Oak Floor – Where from?
Most of the stuff I fit is a good bit more expensive than £40/sqm. I think you’ll have to go Internet shopping. Go for engineered if possible. Your builder should have an idea of what’s around for that kind of money too though. And don’t float it on underlay. It can be glued to chipboard with a combination of either secret nailing and/or tongue-tite screws.Posted 4 years ago
Darcy – thanks very much for your advice. I think £40 is my very max – sorry I cant use your services.
Will ask my builder. He has the week off and I just decided last night. The £5/sqm laminate sitting the corner look unappealing.
Can I fix the oak flooring to the chipboard but still use underlay? The floor is going in the ff and there are bedrooms beneath so I want to tyr to minimize noise.Posted 4 years agoexigerMember
Fitted 70sqm of engineered oak flooring for a customer a few weeks ago, they got it from B & Q.
They paid aprox £1100 for the floor boards fibre underlay and solid oak skirting.
Considering Howdens wanted £2300 for just the flooring I think it was a good deal, and tbh it was better stuff than Howdens gave me as a sample.
I wouldn’t advise using carpet underlay if that’s what you are planing to do, its to soft and the joints can get damaged over time. Had to take a floor up that someone had fitted like this and refit as the joints broke up in places.Posted 4 years ago
I think I know the stuff you mean. Green?
You can secret nail it through underlay, but the joints can end up a bit bouncy. How about some flexible adhesive? Sika T54 or Bona R850? Or an MS polymer, which is a bit cheaper? This would give you a cushion between the floor And the chipboard. I’m guessing it’s a bit late to be pulling the chipboard up to put some sound insulation in?
Tbh, insulating sound from wooden floors is a bit of a ‘mare if you ask me. Just don’t wear shoes upstairs. That’ll keep everything a bit quieter. 😀Posted 4 years ago
The advantages are numerous.
More stable – minimal expansion/contraction. Meaning frames around eg. fireplaces can be fitted much more closely.
Nearly always machined to a much higher tolerance. So all boards will be the same width, no tailing off at board-ends, no stupid gaps where there shouldn’t be.
Easier to cut.
Sits flatter on the sub-floor (less bowed)
And most importantly, less susceptible to relative humidity of the house atmosphere (probably the main reason for cupping and dishing of boards).
And lots more.
It feels a bit sacrilegious saying it sometimes, but if I never had to fit a solid wood floor again, I wouldn’t be in tr slightest bothered. 😐Posted 4 years ago
You shouldn’t use underlay. Unless its a laminate or a click together 12-15mm product.
You should apply a two part liquid DPM (unless you’ve checked the moisture content of the concrete, properly). Then use a flexible adhesive: MS Polymer (£), Bona R850 (££) or Sika T54 (£££). My personal choice is Bona R850. For my reasons not to float, check through my history, nealglover asked the same question some weeks ago on another flooring thread, which I answered.Posted 4 years ago
Nooooooo. Don’t go for hand scraped. Earl, I’ve seen something at my suppliers for just under £40, but there’d be VAT on top. 😐
EDIT: think you can get a brushed finish on it. Which is a nice texture. The “hand scraped” stuff has a load of wavy grooves on it. Looks a bit weird if you ask me. 🙂Posted 4 years ago
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