Anyone ride Woods / Dulop valves?

Wiki link

Edit: beaten to it

What niche valve for STWers?

well, Woods is the oldest and since it’s also known as “Dunlop” possibly ORIGINAL equipment

Edit: beaten to it

Edit: beaten to it twice 😳

Presta look better, are lighter, easier to spell, easier to get straight in a rim, and easier to get through the valve hole, as well as being easier to deflate, and easier to get a pump on.

Some people don’t like presta because they’re ham fisted and bend valves occasionally. Easier to blame the valve then themselves..

So you’re not ham fisted yet still struggle to get a valve through a valve hole & then also struggle to get it straight when it’s through said valve hole…..Hmmmmmmm 8)

So, my question above. Why do manufacturers use Presta valves in their tubeless systems? Is is just because of the removable core?

So, my question above. Why do manufacturers use Presta valves in their tubless systems? Is is just because of the removable core?

All Schrader have removable cores, only some Presta do so I reckon not

Err if you prefer schrader valves then drill but you’d be better off going tubeless and presta…

+1

All Schrader have removable cores

Really?

All Schrader have removable cores

I learned something today!

Really?

yes, really

So, the vote isn’t unanimous…

I think I’ll just go out and get some presta tubes, run them and it leaves me open to upgrade(?) to tubeless in the future…

Why do manufacturers use Presta valves in their tubeless systems? Is is just because of the removable core?

You can get schrader tubelss valves, at least from one manufacturer. Bit wide at the base so maybe no good for skinny rims but rock solid once fitted
(I wonder if the slightly wider base is the main reason they don’t supply routinely as they wouldn’t suit everyone’s wheels)

I can’t believe people are arguing over which is the better valve. (I also can’t believe I wasted five minutes of my life reading the responses)

I’ve always had presta on my bikes but have to admit to never even thinking about why or if Schrader are better.

They’re valves, they let me put air in and take air out of my tyres (tubes) End of.

Who makes schrader tubeless valves ?

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=46838

Joes No Flats rim strips come in Schrader.

For those of us that don’t have dainty little fingers…..

If I wanted Schrader tubeless valves, I’d try one of the products aimed at motorbikes [or even cars] before forking out for something aimed at affluent bicycle owners and accordingly over-priced

eg
http://www.mandp.co.uk/products/list/Tyres/Valves-and-Caps
http://www.tyre-equipment.co.uk/acatalog/Rubber_Snap-In_Valves.html

hexhamstu – Member

I ride so fast that my wheels reach such a high RPM that Schrader valves stand no chance, therefore I use Presta.

I know you’re kidding, but I had a roadie genuinely try to tell me that schrader wasn’t suitable for road bikes because the speed of the wheels meant that the valve ends up getting opened by the centripedal force. So I said, I guess that must be why they use prestas on cars and motorbikes too? And he said yep, definately.

I don’t think the OP was concerned about valve type so much as possibly weakening the rim.

Wheel rims tend not to be overly intelligent creatures and don’t really know if the manufacturer has drilled them for Presta or Schraeder – they won’t know if you have either.

In other words the manufacturer uses the same rim but drills accordingly – or are Schraeder rims really that fraction wider?

Also, check how many rather large holes are in Mr Macaskill’s rims – there seems to be plenty meat in reserve in a standard rim.

It was more a case of, should I bother to drill the rim, and carry on with schrader being fat dumb and happy?

Or shall I move back to presta, accept that i’ll need an adaptor for my footpump, but retain some option to go to tubeless easily in the future?

I think that the consensus is, there’s no right or wrong.

We do all realise that we’re talking about a radius of ~1mm here, 1.25mm if you get all extravagant with the drilling out. I’d be concerned if my tubeless system was that precise. The old Stans video used to tell you to drill the inner rim anyhow to make the rim strip sit flat

DEpends what sort of drill is being used , and what sort of muppet is doing the drilling…
If Presta valves scare you, don’t even think of drilling; you’ll f*ck it up big time.

What’s best warm or cold air in my tubes?

somafunk – Member

I’ll be honest and say i don’t like schrader valves based on the fact they’re ugly and look out of place on a bike
As Lionel would say:

“And in a very real sense, don’t we all occaisionally?”.

tinman66 – Member

I can’t believe people are arguing over which is the better valve.

Great isn’t it?
I LOVE this place sometimes.

Schrader every time. Less faff.
And they use them on motorbikes, which of course makes them cool AND makes your push bike faster.

Got everything together last night, been waiting 3 weeks for the wheels. The wait has meant I’ve had a new pair of Revelations sitting doing nothing due to changing axle size.

Got the drill out, rims now schrader compatible.

If it wasn’t for my rear brake pads being non-existant, i’d have ridden it by now!

bigger hole = weaker rim

bigger hole = weaker rim

😯

bigger hole = weaker rim

That explains why I never snap presta rims. Hang on I never snap schrader ones either. The difference is so small it won’t be worth worrying about.

Bigger hole = lighter thought that would be right up some people’s street

Has anybody yet mentioned that Presta are more aerodynamic?

Aero-valves?

I see a niche developing…

aracer – Member
Has anybody yet mentioned that Presta are more aerodynamic?
POSTED 6 MINUTES AGO #

At which point of the revolution of the wheel? 🙂

Shirley a de-valved Schrader will inflate quicker than de-valved presta? It may only be 1mm or so but that a much better air flow and maybe even gunk up less.

I didnt even knwwo you could get Schrader tubless valves but Im now thinking of getting some so I dont need adaptors when using my compressor.

Presta come with a screw down lock ring that secures the valve in the hole. I’ve had several schrader tubes ripped at the valve through impact or tube movement. Not had that with Presta. Drilling aluminium can create a lot of difficult to remove burrs that can cause punctures. Carry a spare tube, a repair kit, and a hand pump that has a tiny adapter in the handle. No problem. It’s up to you, innit. But take a drill to your nice new rims rather than buy a couple of inner tubes – really?

You can get schraders that screw down to the rim as well…

I don’t understand what kind of “impact” would effect schrader but not presta, and I’ve never had tubes move in the tyre…

the most annoying thing I find with presta, is that tubeless they get gunked up with goo, then when you try to unscrew the valve cap, you take the whole core out. that is proper annoying. I might consider the schraeder tubeless valves. Has anyone used them?

roadie ? presta : schrader;

conan- I think he means when the tyre spins as its too big for your rim & it rips the valve off, would still happen if it was screwed on or not.

The screw-down collar is to prevent the valve pushing into the tyre when you inflate, not to stop it twisting…

You can get schraders that screw down to the rim as well…

Fair enough, I didn’t know that.

I don’t understand what kind of “impact” would effect schrader but not presta, and I’ve never had tubes move in the tyre…

Ever had a branch caught in the wheel that ripped the valve? I guess not. Just trying to help mate – drill the rims if you wanna.

theendisnigh – Member
I might consider the schraeder tubeless valves. Has anyone used them?

[url=http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/new-wheels-to-drill-or-not-to-drill-presta-vs-schrader/page/2#post-4126608]Yes, me[/url]

… I had a roadie genuinely try to tell me that schrader wasn’t suitable for road bikes because the speed of the wheels meant that the valve ends up getting opened by the centripedal force. So I said, I guess that must be why they use prestas on cars and motorbikes too?

Valves on motor vehicles normally stick out sideways, they don’t point at the wheel centre like what they do on a bike.

Drill it – about 20mm diameter drill should do it. Then fit a blanking plug to take it down to 8mm for a presta valve. Carry a spare schrader tube to keep everyone else happy.

I guess you could argue that drilling the rim will weaken it, but you’ll be hard pushed to find someone who has kinked the rim at the valve.

Choice is yours but I would find out what is covered by the warranty before you drill……..