Had 6 happy months out of my relatively cheap and cheerful A2Z / olympic wheelset. Now that I know I am enjoying racing more and have a couple of long enduros coming up I’m contemplating upgrading (nowt wrong with what I’ve got, so probably end up just day dreaming)

The SLR’s seem to be the benchmark. What else is worthy of consideration?

You realise the SLRs will be heavier yes? With a ridiculously old freehub design and spokes that are virtually impossible to find when they break. Positive downgrade I’d say!

What don’t you like about your current ones?

What he said. SLR rims likely to be heavier too.

Rebuild on a new rr hub (for durability at expense of weight) would be my only upgrade to that wheelset.

SLR’s are OK, but lots of money for just ‘OK’.

Stick with what you have unless they are broken/unrepairable.

Yep, good shout, DT240 if you want something fancy.

THE END.
that one was put to bed quickly 🙂

Oh well just thought there might be something wonderful and fantastic out there which is better than I’m currently using.

Not much wrong other than a little bit out of true and a couple of rounded nipples (my own fault for using alloy and being hamfisted)

Because they were (relatively) cheap and I built them myself I keep expecting the freehub to self destruct mid race or the rim to crumple.

Current wheelset weighs in at something like 1450g.

American Classics XC 26 Race are the business! 🙂 lights and fast.

1,486 grams! and about 150 pound less

Still heavier though, and hub shells, axles etc are still made by Chin Huar, so no stronger!

Don’t forget that the SLR’s were updated with a new feebub design a few months ago, so fit all the current standards inc. 12mm bolt through rear. set I’ve got here are 1440 g and stiffer than any lighweight wheel I’ve ever ridden before.

and if you buy them now – you can get two years worth of crash damage cover for a quid, (ie, you pringle the rim, they rebuild ’em free) 😉

the AMs rim is also wider than the SLR so allows a wider profile on tires! I’m a fan of 2.2 tires upwards so they don’t feel as choked as SLRs on the rims!

Depending on budget, something based on DT240/Chris King/Industry Nine hubs is about the best you can get.

@Northernlight you’d need a mortgage for those wheels! but they are excellent recommendations! I’ve seen decent bikes built for the price of those wheelsets!

Agreed Drapper – been lucky enough to have a set of 240’s and currently some industry 9’s that i somehow managed to find cheap on fleabay. Don’t think i’ll ever sell them, get the feeling they’ll last forever!

I’d not have another set of King hubs, wasn’t overly impressed. Heavy, expensive, draggy, and needed a lot of attention. I think the new ones are far better, but I’m not forking out a fortune to find out!

I got some SLRs on a new Canyon. They look nice but I cant see why you would shell out so much. Handbuilt Hope on Crests would be lighter I think and whole lot cheaper.

Hmm, how do Dt swiss 370 hubs compare to the 240s? I have a spare set in the loft laced up to 719 rims that came with a second hand bike. Previous owner only used them on road / brideways. As a wheelset it doesn’t feel light compared to the a2z/olympic wheelset…also centrelock only rotors. Could maybe rebuild onto the new version of the olympic.

I had older kings on my singlespeed, the rear seized up after a few years use. Out of all the hubs I’ve used, only King and Hope proII’s have needed any attention (both rears)

370s are quite different – not a star ratchet. The 340s are an (OE only?) cheaper 240.

DT 240 or King on Stans Crest, CX-Rays or Aerolites if you’re feeling fancy. These hubs are ace – King gets my vote over DT for durability, although you do need to pull them apart and lube every now and again. Easy enough and that way you never have to change the bearings. I had one set that was 7 years old and still smooth as anything when I sold them. Not sure why some people have problems?

I get a year max out of Hopes before the bearing die and, as they can’t be adjusted, need replacing.

GB

Mavic wheels are the best, have been using them for years strong stiff and super reliable, spare parts are not a problem to get and if you are thinking tubeless in the future its the only way to go you don’t need any stupid rim strips or tape just a ust tyre for super reliable tubeless running.
The only other wheels i would look at would be fulcrum red metal 0’s all the same advantages as mavic but i think they are a litte more expensive.

I guess everyone’s experiences will differ, but I’ve had 2 pairs of Mavic wheels and neither has been brilliant.

GB

how deep are your pockets, feeling flush and brave ? some Easton EC90. I’d have 3 or 4 sets myself but the red hubs clash with the rest of my bikes.

I’ve seen more than one of those Easton free hubs disintegrate in a race…

GB

hope hubs + revolution spokes + spank alloy rims.