Viewing 13 posts - 1 through 13 (of 13 total)
  • Lights (again) – Solstice HID to LED conversion anyone done it
  • Riofer
    Free Member

    My solstice HID is starting to shows its age in the lumens arms race but battery and light are still in good condition, so I started wondering if I can do a DIY conversion to LED?

    Has anyone tried? Experiences or better still detailed instructions would be helpful.

    Cheers
    Rio

    wwaswas
    Full Member

    trout’s yer man.

    Riofer
    Free Member

    I thought he might be – I’ll ask the expert directly. 🙂

    Mackem
    Full Member

    edit – i’m an idiot

    Vortexracing
    Full Member

    IIRC I did one last year, same as my Lumi HID conversion but with a flying lead I think 🙄

    I have a Bflex, LED’s and an Optic plus a lump of ally for a heatsink, which you will ahve to get fettled if you are interested.

    here are my original instructions in case you decide to have a go on your own.

    Step by step guide number 2. Converting a Lumicycle HID into a LED – with piccies

    Righto Folks, to follow the thread I started on the Lumicycle halogen conversion. I thought I would do the same with the HID Halogen conversion as people have been asking about it, so here goes.

    I used a XPG triple with a narrow lens and a Bflec driver (Approx 1000lumens when run at 1 amp)

    JOB 1

    I have had some heatsinks turned especially for the job.

    These need a 6mm hole in the centre adding for the LED wires to run through.

    and then a small ‘notch’ filing in it to locate on the screw that holds the mounting bracket in place. The mountain bracket has a spacer under it, remove this so the screw sits into the housing like this.

    It’s best to do this by sliding the heatsink into housing adding the LED’s and optic and screwing the cover in place. File the notch enough to allow the housing screw cover to just fit ie touch the rear housing.

    This completes the heatsink work.

    JOB 2

    I have used a Bflex driver this allows you to have 5 settings and it’s programmable for Temperature and voltage (ie it will switch down a power level when/if it gets hot)

    I used 3 amp wire from Maplins.

    Solder all 6 connections on the driver. All 6 wire lengths should be approx 35mm long.

    JOB 3

    The you will need a new switch it’s this one

    The switch is a momentary switch, you only need to wire 1 connection on it though (Ie it only needs to work one way)

    Solder according to the piccy, I use 3.5mm heatshrink as a precaution that is also available from Maplins.

    JOB 4

    The next thing to do is solder the connection, if you want to us a new one then this is the one for a 2.1 pin, I think the lumi ones are 2.5mm. Maplin have these as well or you can just use your old one from the existing lamp.

    I cut of one of the outer connections so ther is less for anything to snag when assembled.

    My battery is not a lumi one so is centre positive a limucycle battery is centre negative, remember this when soldering your connnections. Ie for a Lumi battery the neg from the driver will go to the centre pin on the connector.

    JOB 5

    Push the LED’s wires through the heatsink and trim to approx 25ish long, ie enough for you to solder the LED board but not to much that you can’t fit it inside the heatsink relief. Then solder the LED board to the wires.

    JOB 6

    Try a dry assemble before adding any heat transfer compound and make sure everything fits, the relief in the heatsink allows plenty of room for the wires and driver.

    JOB 7

    Wrap the driver in insulation tape OR heatshrink. I would have used heatshrink but I did not have the right size. You will need at least 25mm dia. If using insulation tape, wrap the driver with at least 4 lots of it and fold it down on either side of the driver.

    JOB 8

    I used non setting heat transfer paste, as this will allow me to upgrade as new LED’s are available. Put the heat transfer paste under the LED board and push this onto the heatsink.

    JOB 9

    Then put heat transfer paste around the rear of the heatsink and install the lot into the housing. Clean off any excess heat transfer paste and fasten the connector and switch and then screw on the front of the housing or cap

    JOB 10

    Plug your connector in and switch on and Voila

    JOB 11

    Alter the settings from the default by folowing the instructions for the driver ie set the max current (I use 1 amp) set the temp to 80deg C and then open a well earned beer.

    1000lumens (if using a triple XPG LED) and no more hassle about fragile HID bulbs.

    any questions mail me it’s in the profile.

    Happy Soldering

    pdw
    Free Member

    Good work!

    to follow the thread I started on the Lumicycle halogen conversion.

    😀 Some of us are still mucking around with the halogen conversions… This week one of mine gained a triple XM-L U2 running at 1.5A. Should be 1,770 lumens 8)

    Riofer
    Free Member

    cheers vortex, the housing is a little different but the principle should be the same. I”ll have a look inside the lamp unit and start planning.

    Riofer
    Free Member

    cheers vortex, the housing is a little different but the principle should be the same. I”ll have a look inside the lamp unit and start planning.

    stevemorg2
    Full Member

    Vortex- I have a Lumi HID can but no practical ability – do you do conversions?

    Vortexracing
    Full Member

    I have one that I’m selling, but I’m off to Wales for the weekend riding 😀

    Vortexracing
    Full Member

    I have one that I’m selling, but I’m off to Wales for the weekend riding 😀

    mail me and we can sort something out

    cheers

    Dave

    stevemorg2
    Full Member

    thanks but I was looking to use my Lumi Can

    Brainflex
    Full Member

    Have a look here then,
    http://www.cutter.com.au/products.php?cat=Sport+Light+Kits

Viewing 13 posts - 1 through 13 (of 13 total)

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