Home Forums Chat Forum Kitchen tap removal quandary.

Viewing 18 posts - 1 through 18 (of 18 total)
  • Kitchen tap removal quandary.
  • zippykona
    Full Member

    When we had our kitchen installed they must have put the sink and pipes  in the work top and then installed the work top.

    To avoid the back panel of the unit the pipes have been fitted at an angle. The pipes almost touch the fixing nut. Therefore you can’t get a box spanner or even a flat spanner on the nut.

    I can’t take the sink out as there is a screw at an angle that I can’t get to behind the bowl.

    The only way forward I can see is to cut the tap off above the work top.

    Then cut the rear of the unit out to have vertical pipes to allow the fixing nut to be used.

    I have called people out but they have a look and then are never seen again.

    Any other options? Do new tapes come with down pipes?

    IMG_20240609_153300_22420240609_153707

    andy4d
    Full Member

    Will a flat headed screwdriver not unscrew the threaded bit from the tap?

    1
    johndoh
    Free Member

    I had a similar challenge and bought one of these – would it work in your situation? Is that copper pipes going straight into the underside of the sink though? I have never seen that – there are usually flexi tap tails that screw into the tap base.

    jhpbk
    Free Member

    I am by no means an expert in this, but the last few times I have fitted a tap it has come with the flexible pipes already attached underneath.
    Allowing any angle you want, until the copper pipe starts about 12 inches below..

    Looking at the photo, even you manage to turn the nut you still wont be able to get the tap out as the solid pipes will hold it in..

    I’d be tempted to cut the pipes about 6 inch or so below the tap, then just bend them so you can remove the bolt. Install a new tap with the flexible hoses and you’re done

    Easy when writing it down 😉

    theotherjonv
    Free Member

    backnut spanner as linked by Johndoh

    And then taps I have bought recently have the copper tails as a separate piece, which then screw up into the tap body (I think because enables different sized copper tails to be provided, or even flexi tails)

    theotherjonv
    Free Member

    also the example above has no clamping bolt thing because that comes as a separate piece in the box, that you first screw into the tap body (the third hole in the pic). It’s usually a stud with a screw head (slot) on one end; as Andy4d said you might be able to unscrew that.

    Or, turn the water off, unscrew the copper tails, and then you’ll have easy access to the clamping bolt

    spud-face
    Full Member

    I’ve just sat down after replacing our kitchen tap, though nowhere near as awkward a job as that looks. Can confirm the new tap came with replacement flexible pipes, so I’d be minded to cut off and try to rip out the copper pipes then get to the nut. If push comes to shove and you’re replacing the tap anyway, I’ve had to widen the hole to accommodate the big shaft(!) of the new one so maybe you could cut through the seating ring thing and go in from the top..
    Good luck

    theotherjonv
    Free Member

    ^ shouldn’t need to cut them off, they should just unscrew.

    slowol
    Full Member

    As theotherjonv says you should be able to unscrew* the copper pipes first and then you can get a spanner on the nut.

    *Unscrewing may involve brutalising the copper pipes with mole grips and making them unsuitable for ever being used again. I think this is what happened when I replaced a tap in the old house. If you’re not certain you have all the parts to reconnect the new tap start when Screwfix or wherever is likely to be open for a few hours. Doing it on a Sunday evening may result in a day with no tap. Or so I’m told…

    Sometimes a wobbly headed tap spanner is easier to reach the nuts on taps than a box spanner. Depends on what sort of b…… awkward it is. Like one of these: https://www.screwfix.com/p/adjustable-basin-wrench-13mm-40mm/868xr

    spud-face
    Full Member

    Oh yeah, good point

    midlifecrashes
    Full Member

    Johndoh linked the one for old school individual taps, not kitchen monoblocks. This set is the one you want.

    https://www.screwfix.com/p/rothenberger-monoblock-tap-spanner-set-3-pieces/40102

    zippykona
    Full Member

    The back nut spanner won’t go on as the pipes are angled  and in the way. There’s no way on earth of getting a spinner on the pipes.

    I can get a screwdriver on the fastener. It is really solid. Does it have a conventional thread direction?

    slowol
    Full Member

    Can you drill right through the pipes and use the toggle bar from the box spanner to unscrew them? Removing them is likely to involve righting them off anyway.

    andy4d
    Full Member

    Or go nuclear. Cut/remove the copper tails, remove waste pipe, lift of the sink, fit new tap to sink and replace, reattach and reseal the sink.

    ps when I changed my copper tails to flexi ones they were about half an inch short so resulted in a bit of a bodge to connect them.

    2
    theotherjonv
    Free Member

    all seems a bit OTT…. the copper tails are just hand tight against the sealing washer, so if necessary a molegrips or stilson and ovalise them a bit to stop slippage should be plenty.

    But as above, I wouldn’t take off until you have the stuff ready to go on. Which I’m guessing you haven’t given you don’t know what’s in the box. Fortunately I’ve got a choice of Screwfix, Wickes, B&Q, Toolstation and Wolseley all within about 5 mins of me but that’s nee use on a Sunday night.

    spooky_b329
    Full Member

    As above, the tap tails should just unscrew with molegrips, they are only meant to be put in hand tight. Then you’ll have (a bit) of space around the nut.

    Cougar
    Full Member

    Can’t help wonder how they fitted it in the first place.  It looks like the pipes went in after the nut, even if you could get purchase on it is there clearance for the nut’s shoulders to pass by the pipes?

    Can you isolate the supplies then get a Dremel up there to lop the bloody lot off?

    janwal
    Free Member

    Once you manage to get it off I’d suggest getting one of the easy fit taps that are available such as a Bristan Echo.

    They are fitted from above the worktop and come with flexible tails. Very easy diy job to fit. Just make sure when you fit the top on that you you locate the grub screws and tighten them properly.

Viewing 18 posts - 1 through 18 (of 18 total)

You must be logged in to reply to this topic.