Viewing 40 posts - 1 through 40 (of 72 total)
  • How much sealant to use in tubeless set up?
  • rydster
    Free Member

    I’ve got some 700c x 32’s I want to make tubeless and some 29’er x 2.25″ I also want to do.

    Anyone know how much sealant I should add? I’m thinking about 60 ml for each 32 but no idea about the wider tyres.

    continuity
    Free Member

    100-120 for 29ers, more if 2.6+

    Yak
    Full Member

    1 stans scoop in the 700c and 2 scoops in the 29er. So what you said and double for the 29er.

    rydster
    Free Member

    Am I doing something wrong here? My tyres are so tight on the rim that I can’t get my lever under the bead. Trying to warm them up on radiator but not really helping so far.

    Yak
    Full Member

    Unseat all the bead on both sides and push it into the central channel on the rim. More room then.

    rydster
    Free Member

    That’s what I’m having trouble doing though.

    Edit – ok now.

    philjunior
    Free Member

    60ml for running procore, 75-90ml if not, like it says on the box. (for MTB, not sure how much for road, half that sounds reasonable.)

    Yak
    Full Member

    Oh ok. I assume this is the 700c? I have had to use a big dh type tyre lever before on new road tubeless tyres. Thinner tip, metal construction and lots of leverage.

    oldnpastit
    Full Member

    Get valves with removable valve cores, then add sealant via the valve. Much easier than popping the bead on the tyre off the rim.

    (EDIT: maybe that’s what you’re doing, I’m not sure).

    rydster
    Free Member

    One of the tyres just won’t seat. It’s lubricated with soapy water. I don’t have an electric pump. Anything I can do?

    oldnpastit
    Full Member

    You can try the tyre lever method.

    There’s a youtube video which I can never find.

    Put a tyre lever under the bead as though you were going to pop the tyre off. But then instead of levering all the way up, just lever until it’s perpendicular to the rim.

    Then slide it around the rim until it gets so tight that you can’t slide it any more. That sliding lifts the bead up onto the “shoulders” of the rim, which is where you want it.

    Repeat on the other side.

    Then have another go at inflating using your trusty coke bottle inflator (or a track pump and super-strong arms).

    This has worked for me on a number of tyres that really didn’t want to know.

    rydster
    Free Member

    I give up on it. The tyre is so tight it refuses to slide off the middle of the rim and the levers are useless, If I’d known it would be this much of a ball ache I would have stuck with tubes.

    imnotverygood
    Full Member

    Remember Robert the Bruce & the spider.

    woody2000
    Full Member

    I got one of these – I’ve had no bother with any tiyres since 🙂

    https://www.upgradebikes.co.uk/Catalogue/Workshop-Tools/Proform/Proform-Tyre-Tool

    rydster
    Free Member

    Well the one which won’t seat will seat with a tub inside but not until about 35 psi, and I noticed the rim tape is a little folded over on itself or crimped so it probably need changing.

    Also the wheel that did seat leaks at about 30 psi. Seems maybe it’s not properly seated?

    rydster
    Free Member

    Yeah the air in the tyre that seated ok actually escapes between the valves and the valve flange in the rim, like the seal isn’t good past 20 psi.

    Rockhopper
    Free Member

    If you use Stans Raced Sealant you can’t put that in through the valve as it clogs it.

    Yak
    Full Member

    Sounds like the tape is nicked on the leaking wheel too and the air is making its way to the valve hole. I would re – tape that one too.

    BillOddie
    Full Member

    I always put a bit more than what the manufacturer recommends, that way if you get weepage it doesn’t really matter.

    woody2000
    Full Member

    OP – possibly daft question, but are you using proper tubeless tyres on tubeless (ready) rims and have you taped (tubeless tape) the rims etc?  Sorry, had to ask 🙂

    rydster
    Free Member

    Yeah they are advertised as tubeless ready, they are Kore Realm 2.7 and the tyres are WTB TCS. I used some Stan’s valves but they didn’t seem to seat too well in the flanges.

    rydster
    Free Member

    Even with a home-made gasket I can’t get a seal past 20 psi around the Stan’s valve. It’s like maybe the flange is too small for the rubber wedge to properly seat in? Either way my experience so far with tubeless is not good. Seems total garbage.

    rydster
    Free Member

    The 700 c x 32 c is impossible to seat as well. Like trying to pump up a sieve. Just cant get any pressure at all to work with.

    3 wheels, 3 failures. Can’t understand why I even wanted to go tubeless.

    iainc
    Full Member

    Do you have sealant in ? The valve won’t seal without it. Also, without a tyre booster or compressor it isn’t always possible to get the tyres to seat. A Booster costs about £40 and is a godsend for this. I can rarely get tyres to seat with just trackpump.

    Yak
    Full Member

    I think you are unlucky in your rim/tyre combos. Most nowadays go up with barely any effort with a track pump. Some need a burst from an airshot or compressor, but a lot don’t .

    Can you borrow an airshot or similar from someone nearby?

    rydster
    Free Member

    I’m gonna get a compressor from Amazon.

    rydster
    Free Member

    **** yeah I put sealant it!

    hardtailonly
    Full Member

    Yeah they are advertised as tubeless ready, they are Kore Realm 2.7 and the tyres are WTB TCS. I used some Stan’s valves but they didn’t seem to seat too well in the flanges.

    They might be tubeless ready rims. But might not have had tubeless tape fitted (unless I’ve missed something in skimming this thread)?

    Make sure rims are clean and dry.

    Tape the rims. If they tyres are a looser fit, a couple of wraps might be best. Tape them carefully, plenty of finger pressure in the channel and up on the shoulders. I used a hairdryer afterwards to soften the tape & make the adhesive more sticky, but that might be overkill.

    I used a couple of inner tubes with the tyres on the wheels pumped up high overnight to straighten out the folds in the tyre beads and press down the rim tape.

    Release the bead on one side, remove inner tube, insert valve (need a small, neat hole in the rim tape), lock nut done up nice & tight.

    Fairy liquid on the rim hook / tyre bead. Splurge in some sealant. Pop the bead back onto the rim. Tyrelever trick to pull the bead onto the shoulder.

    Remove valve core. Connect air shot. Let in air. Remove nozzle and quickly insert valve core (you will lose quite a bit of air. Pump back up. Rotate the wheel all ways / splosh the sealant around.

    Job (hopefully) done.

    It does need care. And doing properly. And a bit of luck.

    (Hark at me, I’ve only done one set of wheels, and had other failed tubeless attempts before)

    rydster
    Free Member

    I can’t get the tyre lever to pull the bead onto the shoulder. It just doesn’t work.

    Honestly I sick to death of this. I wasn’t planning on riding my MTB for a week or two but my road bike I need. Now it’s wheels off and waiting for a compressor (if that even works). I could put the tubes back in but every time I take wheel off I need to remove mudguard. Huge PITA for something I probably need to check the sealant of every 2 months anyway. Most useless bike technology I’ve seen since oval chain rings.

    breadcrumb
    Full Member

    I love tubeless, it can be a faff but I usually manage without compressed air.

    Try teasing the tyre out the of the well with your thumbs. I usually start with no sealant and no valve fitted and pump like ****.

    iainc
    Full Member

    If you can’t get a lever in to pull the bead how do you get an inner tube in and out ? Something isn’t right with tyre/rim combo by the sounds of it.

    kilo
    Full Member

    Have you not got any co2 canisters, they should get them seated

    rydster
    Free Member

    If you can’t get a lever in to pull the bead how do you get an inner tube in and out ? Something isn’t right with tyre/rim combo by the sounds of it.

    That takes the bead over the rim. Seating the bead isn’t the same as having it within the rim.

    iainc
    Full Member

    It seems that the rim bed is too shallow for the tyres. Do you know how many layers of tubeless tape are on it ? Some tapes need one wrap, some thinner ones 2 or more. I think I’d be taking all the tape off and retaping the rim with a single wrap (plus 8 inch overlap at valve) of Stans tape or a couple of wraps of Tesa tape. Do you know what width of tape is on ? (and what is internal rim width) ?

    Rockhopper
    Free Member

    Co2 worked great eventually!  Lots of soapy water around the bead and with co2 it popped on first time.

    kerley
    Free Member

    It does need care. And doing properly. And a bit of luck.

    While I don’t really disagree with the first 2 points as genrall advice to anything I have never taken any care and always done it is a few minutes so I must have a lot of luck.  I have probably setup around 5 sets of  tubeless tyres and none have taken more than 10 minutes

    Put on tape, press down a bit

    Cut cross shape for valve with stanley knife

    Do up valve with pliers to get it really tight

    Put on tyre and pump up with track pump

    Remove valve core, syringe in sealant

    Pump up tyre with track pump

    rydster
    Free Member

    Ok one tyre on my MTB is now good. The sealant worked on the leak around the valve.

    Will try other MTB tyre now,

    I was trying the gravel bike again. I think by pushing the rim onto the shoulder with my thumbs I can make enough of a seal for the track pump to work well enough, thing is once I get a few psi into the system the air leaks around the valve flange like anything. 10 x worse than on the MTB like it may as well have no valve there. Can’t get more than a few psi into the tyre cos of this.

    I dunno what is wrong. Have a small gasket I home made. Valve is pretty tight. Is the rim tape all wrong? Seems like maybe air is getting under it?

    Rockhopper
    Free Member

    That looks like ordinary rim tape to me not sticky stuff.

    Yak
    Full Member

    Tape looks suspect and certainly has a lot of sealant under. What tape is it? Doesn’t look like stans/tesa.

    rydster
    Free Member

    Yeah I’ll get some Stan’s tape.

Viewing 40 posts - 1 through 40 (of 72 total)

The topic ‘How much sealant to use in tubeless set up?’ is closed to new replies.