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Ok got a message from the guy that built my wheels and he says that since my tyres are not tubeless there might be an issue with them sealing properly.
I bought a pair of Crest rims with an exception Ignitor for the front and an exception Crossmark for the back. Should I have gone with LUST versions? Was under the impression that with Stans rims you can use non UST tyres so you can save weight. Am I completely wrong?
Any thoughts about that? Thanks
you can, but good luck getting them up (weedy sidewalls)
yes you should have gone for LUST on the rear as the sidewalls on exceptions are weedy (the same reason you can't pump them up as well)
I prefer a UST tyre on the rear and an ordinary one on the front (I have stans flows)
They should be absolutely fine. Just make sure there is a good 80mls of sealant in there and give them a good shake to spread it around when initially installed.
It is indeed one of the best things about Stan's rims that you can use pretty much any tyre you fancy.
Well he will give it a shot this afternoon and come back to me.
The only reason I did it was because I on the Justridingalong website it clearly stated that with Crest rims you don't even need a rim strip to use non-UST tyres. I assumed they knew what they were talking about.
easy peasy, maxxis tyres and stans work with just yellow tape and a valve very well together, have highroller exceptions on ztr olympics and ignitors on 355's all work fine, easy to inflate and have survived lots of peak district riding.
why use a ust it weighs a ton and feels like draggy poo with it's big rigid sidewalls 🙂
Good to know Tazzy, here is hoping he will manage to do it 🙂
Has anyone tried just yellow tape with normal tyres and Mavic rims - i've used them with UST and Bonty TLR tyres fine
None LUST Maxxis tyres are fine on my 355's - tried several different versions. Yes they do take a bit of pumping (I used the local garages compressor) but you don't need to use the LUST version if you don't want to!
There's a lot of cock and bull spoken about tyres by people who aren't in the know or haven't done it the right way themselves.
Oh....and I've done loads of sidewalls on other brands but never Maxxis - Conti's were the worst.
Ok so I have to let him know that he just needs to use quite a bit of sealant and they take a bit of pumping. Thanks guys, I'd try do it myself but I don't have a compressor.
if you rag your bike, take a moment to fit a UST rear, it will pay dividends in the end
compressors ......ha, just use manly arms and a track pump....and lots of soapy water.....and some swear words. It's a great workout in itself. The only tyres I've had to resort to cheating and using a compressor was with some speedking supersonics as they were tricksy little blighters.
LOL cool tazzy, my arms are not all that manly I don't think, bit thin me thinks.
Had one fitted to the rear on a mavic rim for a bit. Found it easy to fit/inflate but as mentioned before thin sidewalls. Wouldn't want to risk it if your heavy and/or ride in rocky areas.
I had a set of Maxxis Exception tyres on Flow rims. They went up find and sealed well. However, I did have a few roll of incidents with them. I was running them with yellow tape. Perhaps they would have held up better with rim strips but I decided to fit the lust version instead. They've been perfect ever since.
I am only about 8 1/2 stones so not really heavy. The new set of rims from Stans (Alpine/Crest/Podium MMX) from what Justridingalong says seal better than previous rims so no need for rim strip - Flows apparently need rim strip. From what I gather he should be able to do it, if not anyone around Watford that has done it successfully willing to have a go? :p
Last year i used Maxxis Exception tyres with rim strips in N Wales at the trail centers and on natural trails with no problem at all and although i'm no Steve Peat i dont hang about
My 2.1 Exception High Rollers leaked air and sealant through the side walls for a few weeks. Just keep sloshing it around and you should be fine in the end. I didn't use the rim strip with an Arch rim. I have since switched to Stan's sealant from the JRA stuff and it seems to seal much more quickly, both punctures and when installing, bigger lumps in it. I also switched from the exception HR's when I ripped both in one go. Weak sidewalls indeed, as mentioned above. Currently using Kenda Nevegal non-UST with the side wall shield and no problems. Considering Small Block 8 with the SWS for trail centres.
PS: Vrapan, you riding with OTT again soon?
Hi 05-five,I have a week off holidays and my bro visiting from Greece in April so not sure how much time I can get but should doing at the very least the joined ride with MTBBerkhamsted. After that I will follow regularly their Tuesday nights from May as I did last year, and the Bricket Wood rides whenever they happen.
Have we met on OTT? I only know one guy with a five from OTT is that you?
Vrapan, dont be afraid to try it yourself - I got 2.1 Maxxis Aspens (eXCeption casing) onto crest rims no problem (using yellow tape and no rim strips, as built by JRA).
Didn't need a compressor and not even particularly spastical pumping with a track pump - just lots and lots of foamy washing up liquid to get a seal and lubrication, then lots of shaking to get the sealant dispersed. Been out on a couple of rides and no problem at all - the speed difference against my old mavic crossrides with tubes and fire xc pros is massive 🙂
Well he seems to have actually done it! Just gave me a call and the tyre has gone up and stayed up so all good in the end. I didn't really doubt the guy as he seems the persistent/resourceful type.
And no, the front seems to be leaking sealant all around the rim... 🙁 He reckons if they dont seal over the weekend might have to grab some LUSTs 🙁
Just stick with it. Hold the wheel out in front of you with your arms at 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock. Shake it back and forth with the wheel pivoting in your hands, about 20 times. Rotate it 45 degrees and repeat. And again until you have gone all the way around the wheel. If there's a particular spot that's leaking, try to fling the sealant so it come out and seals it. When your happy, fit the wheels to the bike and turn it upside down so the wheels are off the ground. Leave over night, they will probably go down, but just pump up again being careful not to unseat the tyre or break the rim seal - hence using the bike to keep them off the ground. Start the shaking again until you can leave them again. This could go on for a while (days?) until the side walls are fully sealed up (they are porous as not designed to hold air, only a tube, some are better than others).
Edit:
don't pump them up too hard, especially while trying to get them to seal, 30PSI or the pressure breaks the seal before it dries properly. You should be running them pretty low pressure anyway, especially at your weight. I run mine 30PSI at the back 25PSI at the front no problems. Most people I know run tyres far too hard.
Check my profile address, think we rode Bricket last time
Tyres/wheels are with Ben at the moment so I've left it up to him, thought he had done it before but he has only done it with UST specific tyres. Will pass on to him your advice.
Yeap that's who I thought you were, we rode last time at Woburn, I had Mark's Boardman on tyres so worn that they were pretty much semi slicks lol
Thanks a lot for the advice!
when you have done the shaky wheel dance just leave the wheel horizontal over a box or bucket for an hour or so, do the shaky dance again and leave horizontal with the otherside up. sorts all sidewall leaks no worries in one go. 🙂
just put a new set schwalbe on last night and it took about 30 minutes for both wheels, still have full pressure this morning. YEY!
Good tip.
Ah, Woburn 😀
I am almost considering asking Ben to give them to me to sort it out sounds kinda fun in a very bikey-geeky kind of way.
Whyte1 - Member
Last year i used Maxxis Exception tyres with rim strips in N Wales at the trail centers and on natural trails with no problem at all and although i'm no Steve Peat i dont hang about
I've heard you'll be hanging round at the rear of the Dyfi this year dressed as a laydee!
I am almost considering asking Ben to give them to me to sort it out sounds kinda fun in a very bikey-geeky kind of way.
Go for it, nothing geeky about the satisfaction of making or doing something for yourself. It'll remove the mystique and make maintenance easier, you'll be happy swapping tyres when he's not about.
tubeless 'systems' are work in progress - Let me know when they have the 'system' right and I'll probably purchase, until then i'll stick wi tried n tested.
All the need for sealant, etc is just fackin ridiculous imo
😆
if you get a hole in a tyre what do you do then?
No, fixing punctures and pinch flats on the trail is fackin rediculus. I haven't done that for 3 years! In that time I've had to fit a tube 4 times, in contrast to at least one puncture on most rides before tubeless, that's 2-3 per week down to 4 tyre issues in three years.
@05-five : I will probably do it with the next pair. As long as I have a decent pair of wheels and not stay without bike while sorting out a pair of a second tubeless setup. For the time being if they do not seal by tomorrow I will bite the bullet and get a pair of LUSTs.
@fackit : Don't know how you could ever do away with sealant. Justridingalong suggests it can be done with Stans rims and UST tyres but then what danridesbikes said, you need a way to seal a puncture hole.
@05-five - Running tubes - I've had '0' punctures in the last year. I ride local XC in Bronte Country (West Yorks) and trails in England & Wales. So if it continues in this vein, then tubes are more reliable than tube'less'by your results.
@Vanapan - You could do away with sealant the same way we did away with sealant for wooden flooring. I.e Product development.
You fund it if you want but count me out.
You're lucky you don't have the thorns we do down here!
But, if you'd been tubeless you'd also have had zero punctures in the last year too, so don't follow the more reliable logic. I ripped my tyres so on those four occasions, which would've been an issue with tubes too.
But what about the lower weight, lower rolling resistance & better grip?
@05-five - I don't doubt there are benefits to the tubeless 'system' i'm just not interested until it's a properly fit n forget 'system'. It's not all cut and dry though.
The rolling weight is a sure 'pro' to going tubeleess. However, grip is arguable. I mean extra weight is benefit to grip just as in the same way D H bikes are designed to hug the surface whereas XC bikes are more akin to skimming the trail... - Weight v rolling resistance.
Until then I'll stick to my tubes and let the willing others do the product development for me.
With respect, this isn't a thread about whether to go tubeless or not. You've made your choice and so has the OP. Have I been taken in by a Troll? 😆
EDIT: Don't confuse traction and grip. The heavier something is the more it resist changes in velocity, like braking or turning (conservation of momentum) Tyres grip by deforming around the trail, thinner tyre (i.e. no tube) = more flexible = more grip Doh! there I go again, good job I'm not a fish!
05-five - Can you cook Burgers?
Why, you hungry?
BTW 05-five thought you were a sworn XC Pros fan? What is that I hear about Maxxis and Kendas 🙂
Not me, must be one of the others

