Hi all
I need to replace my headset on my 2014 Scott Scale 960. I’m totally confused about what I’m looking for. I have found a very old online spec suggesting it is a tapered Semi integrated OD 50/61mm ID 44/55mm. I’m not sure what I’m looking for.
I just read up that it’s also referred to a Zero Stack which references the ZS prefix. But I can’t find one and I’m left u certain what I’m looking for.
Can anyone confirm what exactly I need at all (or better still, provide a link)?
Many thanks in advance.
ZS44 is a common top size - loads of options
ZS55 was used by some manufacturers but ZS56 is the common size.
You’ll need to have a search to see who offers a ID55 mm hesdset these days. Worst case chat to a Scott dealer.
Is this right:
S.H.I.S. classification: ZS44/28.6 | ZS55/40
Outer diameter from bearing cup "collar" (OD): upper=50 mm, lower=61 mm
Yes, If you have a tapered fork steerer. (1 1/8” top - 1.5” bottom)
If it’s a straight 1 1/8” fork you need that top size but ZS55/30 bottom.
Yes I have a tapered fork. This is where this all started. I upgraded my fork this week but when I took the old one out I found it was a 1 1/8” straight steerer with a reducer crown race. Thought I could just buy a crown race for the tapered fork (reba) and put it back together but it doesn’t work. The top cap clamps too hard to the point it locks the fork so I can’t steer and if I wind it off a slight bit I can feel and hear the fork rocking in the head tube. So figure I need a whole header kit designed to work together.
I have alway found hopes guide easy to understand have a look.
I would start with a lower which should come with the correct crown race and try that first. Sounds to me like you may have the wrong crown race.
That’s helpful thanks. The visuals aided my understanding. Typical that Scott have used an odd lower cup size! I can’t believe how expensive they are. Typical biking!!
Hmmm.....as I’ve gone from straight steerer to tapered, do you think I’d get away with just replacing the lower cup? And if so, does it matter if it was a different brand to the top cup?
Can't see any reason not to. The top bearing is the same for straight or tapered forks, and they almost never wear out either (compared to the lower bearing). It may be that the angle on the lower bearing doesn't match the chamfer angle on the new crown race. Compare the angles between the new on e and the old reducer crown-race and see if they are the same.
That’s probably the most likely cause. Thanks all for helping work this through.
Scott used the same headset in the 950 but for a tapered fork so using a 1.5 crown race rather than the reducer race.
A 1.5 Ritchey crown race would probably work out.
But otherwise just a bottom cup/bearing /race is all you need...
However mix and match type bottom assemblies tend to be from hope or canecreek and therefore more expensive than a budget headset.
The last 44/55 headset I bought was a brandx or something from CRC iirc. Half the price of any bottom only set from the big boys.
No idea what they’re like but I’ve found Gusset do one for £25. That will probably do me.
Just replace the bottom if that’s all you need.
Doesn’t matter if they are different brands etc.
What size did you end up going for?
ZS55 from Gusset?
I have the same issue with same bike 🙂 I also wonder about changing it. Do I need anything special to pull the current cup and press the new one? I've only changed integrated headsets before.