Viewing 11 posts - 1 through 11 (of 11 total)
  • Going 2×9 from 3×9
  • aphex_2k
    Free Member

    Currently got XT shifters, front mech, crank with SLX rear mech.

    I’ve got a FSA 2×10 chainset – just wondering if I need to replace the 3x left XT shifter or can it be adjusted so that I limit the lower setting and only allow it to select the two rings of the 2×10?

    Or, perhaps ditch the big ring on the 2×10, ditch the front shifter and mech and run 1×9 with some kind of device to stop the chain coming off?

    ThePinkster
    Full Member

    Should be pretty easy to set the adjustment screws on the mech to handle the space required by 2 rings and then tighten the cable to suit.

    pixelmix
    Free Member

    3 speed shifter will be fine – if you adjust the mech screws appropriately, you’ll find that the shifter won’t be able to get into the “big ring” position even if you try.

    Edit – beaten to it.

    aphex_2k
    Free Member

    Cool. Thanks chaps.

    seadog101
    Full Member

    TBH, why go 2×9?

    IF you’ve got to have the front mech and shifter anyways why lose a chainring? If it were my choice I’d go for the 1×9 option. One less shifter, cable and mech to faff about with.

    mrmo
    Free Member

    TBH, why go 2×9?

    why not? maybe the gear range on 1×9 won’t be sufficient….

    clubber
    Free Member

    Because I found that I just didn’t need the big chain ring at all. Why carry it around if I don’t need it?

    I found that 2×9 with a normal front mech seemed to drop the chain quite a lot but that was solved with an SLX double specific one.

    FWIW, I’ve since gone 1×10 as I found that I didn’t really need two chainrings once I’ve got a 11-36 cassette.

    scu98rkr
    Free Member

    Use the middle ring and Big ring shifter positions on the shifter.

    Lose the small ring click.

    I was having problems getting this to shifter correctly and someone said to do this and its worked much better since.

    I’ve gone for a 26-39 * 11-34 on my Full suss and 42-28 * 11-32 on my rigid 29er.

    Really I just want a 11-32 on my full suss (to lose weight) but I need to get a little tougher before I do that as I’ve found my self using the 34 tooth cassette cog quite a bit.

    thomasgeorge
    Free Member

    Just gone 1×11 after trying it on a friends bike, and best move ever made. Didn’t think I would be fit enough to run x1 on front, but find it great. Had 1×10 to start, with 11-36 on the back, and to be honest, there was very little I could not manage, as opposed to the 42 on the back now.

    ndthornton
    Free Member

    why go 2×9

    1, change to a 34T ring and that’s all the gears you need for mtb (1×9 = some pushing if you ride proper mountains)
    2, fit a bash guard = looks nicer -low profile – doesn’t take chunks out of your leg in a crash
    3, shorter chain = less flapping – better shifting – less weight
    2, medium cage mech = less flapping – better shifting – less weight
    3, this mod wont brake the bank

    All my bikes run 2 chainrings

    aphex_2k
    Free Member

    I think aesthetically 1x 9/10 looks nice but I do do a fair bit of riding to work on roads/cycle paths and I think I’d miss the big ring. Plus, financially, switching to a 10 or 11 speed block and replacing the chain and mech too isn’t really my plan at the moment. I rarely use the granny and got a FSA 2x chainset off CRC at a good price so thought 2×9’s worth a go. I’ve only recently bought a 11-34 9 speed red pg990 too and new 9 speed kmc chain so will have a word with the LBS and find out how much they want to sting me for fitting the FSA BB and chainset.

    edit: are the tools for removing an XT BB the same for fitting a FSA BB?

Viewing 11 posts - 1 through 11 (of 11 total)

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