Garage security . Would this work?
Given the choice I would thread live SWA cable through the frames .
Unfortunalty the mofo’s with bolt croppers might get electrocuted and this simply isnt acceptable in the eyes of the law .
My std garage door is on a chunky wood frame . 6″ square posts on the uprights .
Would it be possible to chisel out 2 rectangles and fit mortice /Chubb deadlocks into the lower left and right pillars . They would need to be set back about 4 or 5 ” . Some reinforcement would be neccessary behind , maybe a steel bar .
I could then rivet or weld the 2 striker plates into the sides of the garage door , and open a slot in the door itself.
To unlock the garage one would simply unlock the 2 mortice locks and then the single middle one.
From the outside all would see is a small 1cm x 3cm hole in the lower corners of the uprights , which could easily be covered or disguised.
I am pretty certain chiselling the hole for the lock and fitting it is straightforward enough . As is mounting a strengthening plate on the side of the door , and the back of the posts .
Question is is there a MorticLock / Chubb lock with a very long 4 -5 ” key ?
Looked on Ebay and Google and couldnt see anything suitable .
Should be very quick to open , and better than the existing lock, which i have modded so sliding something thin up the top of door wont pop it open.Posted 5 years ago
Lucky to have retired neighbours with gay dogs. PIR’s and very crunchy gravel drive , but dont want to push my luckprojectMember
WTF is a gay dog, ones who like men presumably.
As for moticing the door posts, check the throw of the bolts in the lock to make sure they reach the keep of the door.
Probably a locksmith should be able to make or have a long reach key blank.
Oh and dont forgert the roof, as a customer had his garage attacked when the natives came through the roof,and probably hurt themselves in the fall.Posted 5 years ago
Pity they didnt check the door first as it was open.muddy@rseguySubscriber
Mortice locks on a garage door are good but it’s better (ie easier) if you mount them into the door and put the striker plates in the frame. This way you dont have to worry about the length of the keys, you just have to be able to drill three holes per lock in the garage door ( 2 for bolting in the lock on the side of the door and one for the keyhole on the front, takes a bit of time if its a metal door but it’s not a major problem) and then chisel out the hole for the striker plate in the frame.
You can get a kit for this from places like Wickes, however they don’t sell dogs that are of a, ahem, happy persuasion, , or any kind of pets for that matter. 😉Posted 5 years ago
Pitched roof . Tiles over felt with associated woodwork .
Garage is 20ft from bedroom window, and overlooked by a small block of flats .
I live in a low crime area as well.
Neighbours daughter is of the age where she has yoofs around . I try to keep door shut and not move bikes in and out when they are around.
Did think about locks mounted on the door , but its impossible to do it invisibly . Plus it really is seconds with a cutter to nip the heads off the bolts , even blind coach bolts .
Been looking online as its been hosing down all day and found these .-
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ENFIELD-GARAGE-DOOR-LOCKS-BOLTS-L-H-HIGH-SECURITY-MK-II-/320884001397?_trksid=p3284.m263&_trkparms=algo%3DSIC%26its%3DI%26itu%3DUCI%252BIA%252BUA%252BFICS%252BUFI%26otn%3D21%26pmod%3D290431900334%26ps%3D54Posted 5 years agomyheadsashedSubscriber
I ask because a hardened thief will look for the point of least resistance, tiles can be lifted easily and felt cut….if you come across any ply going cheap it may be worth boarding the inside……
I never leave bikes out, they always go straight away and are washed out of sight, no point in advertising.Posted 5 years ago
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