I want to run a full length cables on a bike with cable stops, but the cable guides I have won't fit them without drilling out the cable stop mounts – don't really want to do that..

cable guides are something similar to this..
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=1010
(again I assume you'd need to drill out the cable stops for these)

is my only option these M-part stick on cable guides:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=19014

or does anyone know fo a easier/better solution?

Got full length outers on one bike, and Transfil sealed cables on the other (it has cable stops).

I think the sealed cables are loads better – full length outers are overrated.

not interest in sealed cables thanks, have been using full length cables happily for the last 3 years thanks.
Overrated or not I'll stick with them

I just run the full length outer down the brake hose routing til it needs to move across to the driveside and fix it to the chain or seatstay with cable ties and rubber tubing.
Works on 90% of the bikes I fit it to, and I work at a trail centre. So I fit them to many different frame styles.
Sealed cables are crap IME. All the types i've tried can't handle Welsh or Peaks grit.

For the cable guides in your first link you dont need to drill out your cable stops to fit them.

My old Marin (06) had slots in the stops to fit a zip tie through if you wanted full length outers. You could always copy that. That way it'll still work as standard!

Skyline-GTR – Member

Sealed cables are crap IME. All the types i've tried can't handle Welsh or Peaks grit.

As a peak local i can confirm that you are talking 100% bollox. My sealed cables work well and are super smooth. Just need installing by someone other than a ham fisted monkey 😉

I use gore cables and have no issue with them after being careful with installation. I'm struggling to see how full outers differ from sealed cables in terms of keeping much out. Both have a continuous covering from shifter to mech. Using sealed cables would save any frame drilling but offer the same protection to the cables. I'm intentionally avoiding comments about compression of housing and shift crispness.

However, in answer to the OP, I don't think there is a pretty way to hook full outers onto a stopped frame. Your choices are.

Stick on hose guides
clamp on hose guides (through the cable stops)
A Dremmel
Wrap O rings around the frame and feed the housing through
see a frame builder
fit sealed cables.
Zip tie to an existing hose

As a peak local i can confirm that you are talking 100% bollox. My sealed cables work well and are super smooth. Just need installing by someone other than a ham fisted monkey

+1

I bought a set of gore last september for brakes and gears on my commuter bike and they lasted through the winter of salt and snow and a couple of laps of dalby. still working 100% now, i've never had a full length cable that i've ran before in 7 years of commuting get me through a North Yorkshire Moors winter.

If you do want full length cables onzadog came up with some good suggestions

+2 for sealed cables. My last set or gore cables lasted so well I actually transplanted them across to a new frame. (both bikes are ridden regularly around the Peaks).

use zip ties. I've used full length outers for a few years now. No maintenance problems at all.

cheers to Liftman, my jagwire cable guides did fit the cable stops with a bit of persistence, it was just thick paint stopping them originally. They don't look the greatest but I'm loathed to modify the frame permanently, and being a cheapskate I'm using the 'old' cable setup from the donor bike.

As for the sealed/full length cable arguement, I wouldn't like to say one is better than the other but I don't reckon the price of a kits are anywhere as cheap as buying a 10m length of SP41 (that's lasted for ages and kitted out loads of bikes)