Basically tried to service my hub about 2 months ago, tightened it all back up and the axle would barely move. Fair to say I mucked it up.
So I took it to the pro’s (wont name the shop), they fixed it and it was fine, but yesterday I noticed the rear hub was wobbling a bit, like, if I held the wheel and then held the bike up, I could move it about 2mm each way, and there was a wobble sound.

So I took the wheel off, felt the two locknuts and both were completely loose. I tightened them up a little bit with the 17mm spanners, but if I over tighten it, I get the same problem again where the wheel wont turn?
So at the minute it’s on the fine line between being too loose so they can be turned by hand, but too tight so the wheel wont spin.

This can’t be normal??? I don’t want to take it into a shop if it is normal, but it surely isn’t right?

I read I need three spanners , two to hold the locknuts and one to hold the cone, but how can I get a cone spanner on when there is a massive dustcap?????????????

So confused!! Any help?!

It’s normal for it to be a bit loose when off the bike. Get back to that point, clamp it into the dropuots and then see if there’s any play.

really? That’s great because I just read that the QR skewer should make it tight to the frame, and obviously because only 1 spins forwards it would never loosen right off.

It’s fine now and seems to spin ok, that’s a relief!!

On a side note, the front one is making a sort of grinding noise when im doing probably 25mph on the road. Means it needs a service? It’s not really loud but it is there for sure.

thanks for your reassuring comment!

really?

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/cone-adjustment.html

Ah wow, that’s good. Maybe I will loosen it a bit then even.

Thanks for your help

OP if the locknuts are not tight you may destroy the hub just by riding it.

Does sound like the hub is shafted or the work was guff

but how can I get a cone spanner on when there is a massive dustcap

take the dustcap off…

The cone and locknut lock against each other to stop undoing. If you’re on Shimano (sounds probable) then the 17mm cone tightens up against the 15mm cone on the same side.

Lock the freehub side first, as this is the more ‘hidden’ side – you can do this with the axle removed. Then fit the axle to the hub, fit the non-driveside cone+locknut until they are almost at perfect tension. Nip them up against each other, as described above, then if there is still some play carefully and in small increments tighten the two 17mm locknuts against each other. There will be some resistance but they will move.

As said above, you don’t need perfect tension off the bike, as the QR pressure will add more, so adjust so there is a tiny bit of play, which should then disappear when the wheel is fitted to the bike.

oh and don’t forget to put the dustcap back on… 8)