Viewing 31 posts - 1 through 31 (of 31 total)
  • Dry lube – whats best in your opinion?
  • racing_ralph
    Free Member

    I would like:

    Predominant ride location:
    Average ride length:
    How often applied:
    Performance /10:

    cheers

    Si
    Free Member

    Sand

    Candodavid
    Free Member

    Mainly ride on the Mendips
    Average ride is between 3 and 4 hours
    Applied 12 hours before ride and then again after cleaning when home
    9/10

    Pedros Ice Wax, use it all year round

    0303062650
    Free Member

    How about this rob?

    http://www.monogamygame.com/idlube/

    jt 😉

    theboatman
    Free Member

    Finish Line Dry

    Derwent Valley/ Peak
    Owt from an hour up to 6 plus
    Applied after bike gets cleaned/ or when it needs it
    ?/10 can’t say I really compare it to anything, use wet lube in winter and dry when it’s dry – I feel suitably lube’d

    juiced
    Free Member

    finish line do a newish?? range of dry waxes as opposed to the old wet/dry combo that is still in their range. Not used it though. Use the dry oil all year round and am happy enough.

    TandemJeremy
    Free Member

    I tried a “dry lube” and didn’t like it at all. Recently started using motocross chain wax that you melt on the stove – horrible faff but so far it appears much much better than anything else I have tried and 1/5th of the price.

    thefallguy
    Free Member

    nytralube slick caramel

    sherwood pines + peaks/lakes

    2 to 6 hours

    chain removed after every ride, then quick rinse, dry and left to marinate in lube til next time. i run 3 chains so just rotate useage.

    Performance is very good with only the longest wettest winter peaks ride causing any undue noise in the drivetrain. I use year round without issue. Like the fact that cassette and rings don’t pick up much filth compared to wet lubes. Seems to be very runny and is best applied then chain is off the bike and in a shallow container (plastic takeaway box), it dries to a hard wax finish. Much better protection than white lightning.

    TandemJeremy
    Free Member

    The real beauty of the wax stuff I have been using is it only needs to be done every couple of hundred miles rather than every 50 or so. Just as well as its horrible to do

    theboatman
    Free Member

    …..god, my bike is lucky to get cleaned after a ride 😳

    Frankers
    Free Member

    No regular cleaning for me either………but can recommend Progold prolink

    Generally re-lube after every 4-5 rides and doesn’t cak me chain up.

    I have tried a fair few lubes over the past years and like Prolink for the drier months…………if you’re not sure what to use why not order a few lubes and see what you prefer yourself??

    nickc
    Full Member

    Makes so little difference to chain life whatever you use, so much so that you may as well choose by colour, or smell. Better still, close your eyes and grab one.

    racing_ralph
    Free Member

    f you’re not sure what to use why not order a few lubes and see what you prefer yourself??

    Because i don’t have money to burn but if you want to donate to the fund my paypal address is in my profile – oh thought not!!

    toons
    Free Member

    Purple Extreme
    7 Stanes, Kielder, North East
    3 hours
    Applied after bike gets cleaned or when it needs it
    10/10

    Highly recommend, BUY IT NOW

    mudslinger
    Free Member

    I’ve heard of people using chainsaw oil because it works out very cheap & does a good job. Any views on this?

    hillsplease
    Full Member

    Exactly the opposite of Toons. Just don’t get on with dry lubes. Any of them yet, including- Purple Extreme, Pedros Ice Wax or the finish Line one. Yes – onto clean dry chains. After 2 hrs the chains squeaking.

    Peaks, W Lancs Moors, road.

    finish line wet lube and wipe the excess off the links with a rag/ servitette/ passing woodland creature. Sure you get some cack build up – but it doesn’t squeak.

    DezB
    Free Member

    I’ve by chance, found a lube that does what they all claim to do – ie. stops sh1t sticking to the chain.
    Unsurprisingly, it’s made by Park. Park CL-1 lube.
    I’d give it 9/10 for the varied conditions I’ve been riding in over the last 4 months. http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=27027

    pantsonfire
    Free Member

    Stihl chain saw lube its cheap £5 a litre its bio-degradeable and your chain will never rust even if you wash it in the sea. Apply a drop to each roller allow to soak in and then a good wipe down with a rag chain shouldnt feel sticky you want the oil inside rollers not outside chain

    Lancs, Lakes, Peak, N wales, local pinewoods.
    1 to 5 hours
    after every wash
    10/10

    catnash
    Free Member

    Used most.

    Last year decided to stick to finnish line green most of the year and the dry in summer if we ever get it.

    Brechfa/Trawscoed/Llanllwni mtn Llanybybber mtn. natural and manamde
    avg ride length 3-4 hours
    every ride, clean chain when it looks bad
    8.5/10 (10/10 for me would be last 10 rides, be clean and cheap)
    I would like to see the viscocity of that stihl bio oil.

    carl
    Free Member

    totally biased opinion from me regards Squirt.spent the entire winter riding with just about every lube on the market place because i had to.Some good,some awful.
    finish line green top or rock n roll in my opinion offer the best performance for longegivity but they get real gunky and require alot of degreasing to keep the chain clean.
    For a new take on dry wax based lubes try Squirt

    in2dust.co.uk

    twohats
    Free Member

    Purple Extreme is fine if you don’t take your bike off road, useless stuff, WD40 would be better!!!

    Pro link gold is good stuff.

    This is my new favourite

    Scienceofficer
    Free Member

    I use rocknroll extreme too, but it gets very expensive and quite mucky if you apply as per the instructions.

    These days, I’ve bought the 16oz bottle from CRC, prised out the squirty fitment and I dip the cleaned chain directly into the bottle, ensuring that as its dragged back out, it runs over the edge of the bottle top. This ‘wipes’ most of the excess lube back into the bottle and makes sure the chain is 100% lubed too.

    It lasts the same as Candodavid says, since I ride with him. In the winter, all I do is put a sacrificial layer of finish line wet lube on each roller, which seems to protect the rocknroll lube quite nicely. If you do it in the dry though, it just turns into a stickymess.

    Bimbler
    Free Member

    Been using this

    It’s ok.

    Preferred Purple Extreme (this really divides opinions doesn’t it) but can’t being myself to spend £10 on a lube.

    racing_ralph
    Free Member

    Rock n Roll Extreme Chain Lube – 16oz Bottle

    Rock n Roll is simply the King of Lubes. If you want the best performance and durability from your bike, you’ll use this! This Extreme Chain Lube cleans and lube at the same time when applied. The formulation goes deep down into the chain and traps any dirt. Then, when you freewheel backwards, the formulation traps dirt and grit, floating it to the surface so you can wipe it all off. It leaves a protective membrane to keep out dirt from the moving parts of the chain for a longer chain life and also super smooth shifting and pedalling.
    # Designed for MTB’s used on the road[/u]
    # A very clean chain lube that works and lasts and never lets you down
    # Capacity: 16oz (4oz available)

    catnash
    Free Member

    I remember a conversation that a few trials riders used to low temp boling the oil and chain in a pan, the reasoning being that the oil would get into the chain better. Sounds logical, in practice though having a pan of oil on a cooker spells a nervous time.

    finbar
    Free Member

    I’m buying this next time i need some:

    kiwijohn
    Full Member

    Used to use Pedros Extra Dry, Finishline or Shimano wet, which was very good.
    But now it’s Rock n Roll blue. Squirt it on, wipe it off & you’re done. Minimal clag build up. Quick squirt with a hose when you’re done & repeat.

    TimBle
    Free Member

    motorcycle chain wax

    gavtheoldskater
    Free Member

    finish line ‘dry’ here (‘wet’ in the depth of winter if its really harsh, but generally i find that a bit thick). have used it for donkeys years (in everything from south downs chalky gloop to cornish moorland grit). also use it to lube the pivots on my mechs.

    usual post ride routine, if it needs it, is after hosing bike to simply dry chain as best as with a cloth and spray with wd40 (maybe wipe off excess if i’ve soaked it too much). put bike away. next time i’m ready to ride i just add the chain lube.

    if the chain starts to get gungy, esp in dry conditions, i run it through the ol’ park tool chain cleaner with finish line biodegradable concentrated cleaner.

    Frankers
    Free Member

    racing_ralph – Member
    If you’re not sure what to use why not order a few lubes and see what you prefer yourself??
    Because i don’t have money to burn but if you want to donate to the fund my paypal address is in my profile – oh thought not!!

    Not sure how buying a few lubes and using them is burning money, as long as you use them all up.

    You can find 1000’s of recommendations on the net for all sorts of bike products including lubes but at the end it’s what you prefer that counts. I use completely different stuff to my mates even though we ride the same places.

    BTW I have some White Lightning wax going spare if you want to try that

    pantsonfire
    Free Member

    I would like to see the viscocity of that stihl bio oil.

    catnash I couldnt tell you the viscosity index of the Stihl oil but it seems to me to be about the same thickness as Green Oil lube and Pedros green synthetic chain oil

    I have a feeling its exactly the same product but works out about a fifth the price and as far as I can tell it works the same.

Viewing 31 posts - 1 through 31 (of 31 total)

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