Home Forums Bike Forum Dropper Post With Very Flexible Cable Housing?

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  • Dropper Post With Very Flexible Cable Housing?
  • andykirk
    Free Member

    Hello All

    I need to buy a new dropper post for my hardtail MTB. The issue I have is that my frame has internal cable routing for the dropper – the cable goes down the downtube then bends at quite a sharp angle at the bottom bracket then goes up inside the seat tube. The cable does not exit the frame between the downtube and seat tube, and this sharp bend in the cable housing I think has led to some problems with actuation of my existing dropper. Anyway my question is, which brand of dropper has the most flexible cable housing… if indeed any do? I just want to try to minimise friction of the cable moving inside the housing at this sharp bend.

    Onzadog
    Free Member

    I use brake housing.

    bikesandboots
    Full Member

    How sharp we talking, what bike?

    Could try Rock n Roll cable magic. On a derailleur where the cable is exposed to mud I’m not sure if it helps or might attracts grime, but on a dropper shouldn’t be an issue. I put a few drops each end of my cable when it got a bit slow to return, worked it in by activating the lever a few times, did the trick.

    oldnpastit
    Full Member

    Expensive, but perhaps a wireless dropper?

    sharkattack
    Full Member

    Nokon Slimline

    andykirk
    Free Member

    It’s a Vassago Verhauen – no idea of actual angle I don’t have my protractor handy! But it looks tight to me and when the bike was being built the mechanic (not me) used many swear words when installing my old One-Up dropper cabling.

    mert
    Free Member

    Nokon Slimline

    Or buy an extension kit, they used to have 10 or 15 cm of the segmented outers and a bit of liner in a bag to extend the run for big frames/odd routings. Just do the bit that needs the sharp bend with the segmented outer, use double ended ferrules where needed to join with the normal outer.

    Kramer
    Free Member

    I would suggest that getting a quality gear cable and housing from one of the respected manufacturers could solve the problem as it’ll have less friction.

    sharkattack
    Full Member

    Or buy an extension kit, they used to have 10 or 15 cm of the segmented outers and a bit of liner in a bag to extend the run for big frames/odd routings. Just do the bit that needs the sharp bend with the segmented outer, use double ended ferrules where needed to join with the normal outer.

    That’s the right idea. Do this.

    ayjaydoubleyou
    Full Member

    a lot of droppers don’t come with the cable (or lever) any more. And I might guess some of the ones that do, come with the cheapest cable and housing they can get away with.

    Suggest either looking at suggestions for cable inners and outers in this thread, or as you are after a new dropper, maybe a better question is which dropper has the lightest or shortest actuation.

    bikesandboots
    Full Member

    Expensive, but perhaps a wireless dropper?

    Looked at these recently. If it helps: Magura Vyron (poor IIRC), KS Lev Circuit, Reverb AXS, Tranz-X EDP01.

    Upcoming ones from BikeYoke, and Fox Transfer Neo.

    seriousrikk
    Full Member

    My bike has the same dropper routing.

    Works fine with a shimano xt spec gear cable.

    bens
    Free Member
    sharkattack
    Full Member

    I totally forgot about those flexible noodles! Yes, that’s what I’d use. Problem solved.

    noeffsgiven
    Free Member

    Don’t jagwire do a 3mm outer and skinnier inner for that very reason.

    andrewh
    Free Member

    Can you lose the spacer thing in the middle of the BB to give more room for the bend?

    I’ve used BBs without and it doesn’t seem to affect the life of it at all

    1
    mert
    Free Member

    Until the cable touches the axle… have seen more than one written off crank thanks to that.

    BearBack
    Free Member

    I wonder if the issue is install related vs tight bend radius.

    If you’re just jamming your post in without “pulling” that extra cable out as the seatpost drops into the seat tube then you’ll end up with a kinked spaghetti mess of excess cable.

    To to this effectively, you need the inner cable secured to the lever so you can pull the whole  lot as one. That means working out the required outer cable length before hand.

    5lab
    Free Member

    Could you just use an old v brake cable thing? Might be the correct amount of turn, not sure.

    Otherwise, drill the seat tube and the down tube to allow the cable housing to exit and re-enter, reducing the angle of the curve?

    Any non wireless reverb is hydraulic, so not sensitive to cable corners as long as the hose isn’t kinked

    1
    bikerevivesheffield
    Full Member

    Shimano bog basic road cable set is spiral wound and flexible.

    Brake outer also

    thisisnotaspoon
    Free Member

    My bike just has the stock brand-x cable, no sure how much more room it has at the BB though (carbon FS so it’s a chunky part of the frame).

    I think it’s a lot more flexible than standard cable outer though, comes practically folded in half in the box.

    Isn’t Nokon thicker than conventional outer? It steps down into the ferrule at the end. IF you can get it in the frame though it makes sense.

    magoos_mate
    Free Member

    Jagwrire dropper housing is a must. I struggled a lot with a new style 5010 frame, really persevered with it but had no joy. The jagwire went through like a rat up a drainpipe. First time.

    _tom_
    Free Member

    Not SP41, it’s way too stiff and I really struggled with it for internal routing a dropper. Had much better luck with a cheap Shimano road gear cable set for about a fiver off Amazon. Even so, internal routing really is shit.

    rOcKeTdOg
    Full Member

    brake housing

    This, brake cable outer (not hydraulic obvs) much more flexible but use compressionless outer or it’ll be vague when activating the lever

    choppersquad
    Free Member

    Jagwire pro dropper kit. Has a thinner outer which makes it far more flexible.  Just bought one for my Enduro which has to do a really weird bend round the shock. Definitely better than the old cable.

    zerocool
    Full Member

    It’s a steel frame (IIRC) so what about just drilling a hole in the seat tube and have the cable enter in a sensible place and angle?  I’ve drilled steel and aluminium frames with no problem

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