DIY types

TJ and GG = TAKA (Tom)

Now that has really confused me RR!

Why doesn’t using gestures work over the net. Its a distinct shortcoming. I am sure an explanation with lots of waving of hands would help

*grumbles*

See here tj, you and gg “fight” is also comedy gold

sorry gg but you are just wrong on this one and tj, bless his duracel batteries, is right.

Glad you managed a misguided ROFLCOPTER about it all though, I wish I was stupid sometimes, happiness seems much easier to them.

Oh and you may be right about the door hinges, I’ve only hung a few, a decent explanation wouldn’t go amiss but you seem either incapable or above that.

As I said previously, cynic-al, you appear to be more than happy with the answers which you’ve received……. so it’s a couple of one and a half sixes, with red plugs, straight into plasterboard, with a little batten along the bottom to make sure the whole thing doesn’t fall off. We know that it will work because TJ has given a detailed account of the theory.

Hinges on a door ? Well I couldn’t possibly explain why the top hinge does more work than the bottom hinge. Or does it ? I think you need a man with a theory for that ………TJ ?

When I used to fit kitchens I would mostly do what the first poster after the OP suggested when fitting to plasterboard stud walls, i.e. fit a plywood template behind the wall units, securely fixed to the studs, and then fix the wall units through the plyboard.

When fixing to brick / block walls, I always used to fit a batten under as per TJ’s suggestion in addition to the more secure fixing you could get into the solid wall.

Since there is a debate going on that introduced door-hanging into the pot, it’s worth considering the direction of the ‘braces’ on ledged & braced doors / gates. IMO both TJ and GG make correct points but GG is probably being disingenuous in not acknowledging TJ’s assertions regarding the need for a strong enough fixing at the top in addition to the supporting batten. Possibly. 😉

cynic-al – Member

…………… tj, bless his duracel batteries………….

I know – just keeps on going on 😳

I just had to edit out more explanations and stuff 🙂

*goes outside to have a word*

the direction of the ‘braces’ on ledged & braced doors / gates.

Ah ……. “the direction of braces on ledged & braced doors”

Well psling …….. I suspect that this little thorny issue, has been the subject of much internet forum debate, because it now appears that you no longer need to decide whether it’s like this : / or like this : \ because braces, I’ve recently noticed, appear now to be coming like this : X !

Oh I do love a compromise…….

And sometimes like this: A but never like this: V.

Of course, on a field gate, the top hinge is 450 / 600mm long whislt the bottom one is just a bracket.

No wonder it’s bl00dy confusing…

🙄

I’m with Tandem Jeremy. This has worked for me for 3 years. Batton at bottom to take the weight secured with grip fill and 5 screws in rawl plugs. 2 plasterboard fixings at the top to stop it falling forward. Nothing has gone into studs and this is a plaster board wall.

Big up Jeremiah.

That looks excellent mandog. You know, I reckon quite a few housebuilder might very interested in your idea (plasterboard fixings as well as the batten along the bottom you say ? ) specially the timber frame builders. Because they would certainly save a lot of money in labour and materials if they didn’t have to get carpenters to spend all that time noggin out kitchens. And in the present climate I’m sure that housebuilders must be looking for any cost-saving solutions.

Hinges on a door ? Well I couldn’t possibly explain why the top hinge does more work than the bottom hinge.

Well I know now not to take you at all seriously at least.

So you are using the top fixing to resist a pull foreward of under 100N ( 10KG) which is why you can get away with a less secure fixing.

Just out of interest, would you sleep with a 10Kg weight above your head, hung from a piece of plasterboard by a #6 screw (or even a #8 or #10) and a rawlplug? How about if there was another one secured by a second hole about 10cm away (as is the effect of mounting two cupboards next to each other). I know I wouldn’t. And as before, you need to factor in things like children (or adults) pulling downwards whilst opening cupboard doors. That shifts the c-o-g out significantly and would have a marked effect on the turning moment.

Belt-and-braces. Wood in the wall.

Alternatively you could fit battens top and bottom. The top one could be screwed into the vertical studwork, then the cupboards screwed upwards into that batten. It would still need to be a reasonable sized piece of wood at the top and you’d have to make sure you weren’t drilling holes too close to the edge of the chipboard carcase.

A noggin below the cupboard has worked for me and saves a lot of work but there’s no guarantee’s it won’t ever fail.

A new construction would have 18mm ply behind the plasterboard.

For belt and braces on a retrofit, batten across the studs high and low then secure the cupboard to the battens.

That was hard work just reading this thread, I daren’t mention shock loading

I know a man who did. Stayed up for about half an hour and came down full of brand new crockery.

I daren’t mention shock loading

Oh go on, why not ?

You know you want to.

.

A new construction would have 18mm ply behind the plasterboard.

Not if the electricians have any say in the matter. Or do you mean only in kitchens without electrical sockets ?