That looks great CK, especially with the black case! I wish I could trust my hand to drill the stars!

Nice work CK.
Any idea on where I can get a M2,M3,M4 tap and die set cheaply for this job?

Ooh, my bits are here as well! Just haven’t got the time to have a fiddle until possibly Monday now, before I have to go to court 🙁
I like the way you drilled the start CK, may try that as well.

Whats the shortest anyone would suggest cutting the case down to? Does the minimum size for space allow enough heat dissipation?

Any idea on where I can get a M2,M3,M4 tap and die set cheaply for this job?

Try Tracy Tools, you dont need the dies and if your just working will alloy then carbon steel will do

Whats the shortest anyone would suggest cutting the case down to? Does the minimum size for space allow enough heat dissipation?

My case is 45mm long. I’ve run this case with Seoul Leds at 1 amp with no problems. I’m assuming the the increased efficiency of the XPG means less heat is generated as more energy is turned into lumens, who knows. Compared to the Buckpuck I’ve used in the past the driver package is very small, could easily cut the case down another 5mm, if its head mounted its not so much the size but the weight.

Regarding the issue of heatsinking the driver board ….. I hope BCT/Teapot doesn’t mind me quoting an email he sent me … and he may like to add more info …….

“The main two components which generate heat are the main chip and the
inductor (the largest components on the board). Rather than heatsinking
them it would be easier to stick a heatsink on the underside of the
board as the heat spreads around the board fairly evenly. I would
suggest seeing how it goes first and measuring the temperature if
possible. The IC manufacturer recommends keeping the surface of the
package below 65C and the inductor value falls with temperature so the
circuit will not be able to regulate the load as effectively.”

I plan to use Troutie’s method and bond a piece of ali to the underside (leaving the solder holes clear) and then bonding the ali to the large metal hammond end plate. The plastic bezel will be used to isolate the hammond end plate from any heat that comes from the leds via the case. No point using the Leds to heat up the driver even further!

The main concern heat-wise is the IC – this is the thing with 5 small connections to it. However, heatsinking just it will be fairly impossible. For those who don’t know, a PCB is (in this case) a fibreglass core with a thin (about 35um) copper layer which transfers the current around the circuit. Copper is also very good at transferring heat so the heat will spread around the board fairly well. The fibreglass doesn’t transfer heat that well but even still enough gets to the underside of the board to make connecting a heatsink there make a difference.

One warning, there are two exposed areas on the underneath of the circuit board aside from the 5 connection terminals. These are at the same potential as the PWR- connection so take care not to electrically connect them to anything else!

Thanks BCT … I take it a thin layer of AAA will be OK …it looks like the two exposed areas you mention are very slightly below the level of the mask on the underside of the board so AAA’ing the ali plate to the underside will cause no problem. Is that right?

I forgot to say that I intend to use a “solid” hammond plastic bezel, not the skeletal one for the rear of my builds (that’s what I have available), so I will cut a rectangular hole in the bezel, just a bit bigger than the size of the ali plate I intend to AAA to the driver. Of course it works even better if you have the skeletal bezels on the rear.

Woo Hoo my boxes have arrived 😀

I’ve got the ones with the ali plates and seperate plastic bezels. What would be best to cut or drill through this for the switch etc or swap with someone who only has the full plastic ones?

What is AAA, and what else could be used to glue driver to ali and ali to backplate?

the thremal epoxy paste linked earlier in the thread for glueing ali bits

trout: box of leds and stuff arrved safe and sound.

parts gathering accomplished now all i need to do is acutally build it. i`m moderatly nervous and excited in equal measure. i’m fairly convinced i’ll blow something up so i hope there are some spares…

i like the idea of drilling the leds but… *gulp*

Stayhigh, i’ll swap your seperate for my one piece if you want?

RWS: have emailed you about swapping ends 😯

stayhigh, the swap is on!

Be careful of the black covering on the LED’s as Ive scratched mine and earthed it 😳 . Just test your connections with a multimetre first.

Sounds ominous! Lipseal …. could you add a little more explanation .. I’m not quite sure what the scratch to the black covering of the leds has done? Thanks bobbl@

Well bh I can now see the copper that’s under the black covering, and was just checking the circuit found the middle screw had earthed one of the LEDs. Removed screw and could see a small scratch will have to find fiber washer of some sorts.

Can anyone recommend a grippy 5.5/2.5mm power plug – my maplin one has a smooth inner barrel and doesn’t ‘hold’ the socket too well.
(The 2.1mm ones were a different design – but I already put a 2.5mm socket on the light.)

has it got the split centre pin cos you can open it a tad carfully and it will grip a bit better

For insulating washers I was going to cut some from leftover oven-ready meal containers. Should be able to take the heat OK.

Good idea v8

Got it LS … Thanks. That’s one less mistake for me to make. I love these forums!

As LS says … Good idea V8!

‘Done that’ – thanks troutie – I thought about a £6 IP68 locking one – then decided that ‘loose ones’ crash better(?)

If anyone didn’t manage to get the DIY pack I’ve

(a) Tidied my desk and found another switch lurking
and
(b) bought a few double-pole switches from Rapid

I now can supply another 4 packs if anyone needs them.

(Jazid, you pack with extra switch is on the way!)

Is the AAA electrically conductive or insulative? (This usually depends if it is metal or ceramic-loaded) The two small holes on the driver can be electrically connected together but not to anything else.

Certainly worth using insulating washers when screwing the LEDs down to avoid any potential problems. Temperature shouldn’t be a major issue – if you are getting over about 80C at that point you are frying the LED die anyway…

Thanks BCT.
I have just realised that all the PC case & motherboard screws I have lying around might well do. Not sure what threads are on these those and what sort of tap they will suit.

AAA = Arctic Alumina Adhesive

http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_alumina_thermal_adhesive.htm

non-conductive.

@blackcat – is that four packs of your part, as in driver, switch etc, or the full shebang? Also, ot, but do you make drivers for other lights? I’ve been trying to find a UK source of P7 drivers (and 18650 holders) to mod a couple of dx torches I have but it seems a dead loss. Very wary of ordering anything from the states after getting thoroughly done over on import tax on a t shirt recently.

Bigjim – Yes, just my parts, not including LEDs / reflectors etc.

The P7 is a right pain to make a driver for. Cree got it right with the MCE by making the 4 dies available independently rather than Seoul putting them in parallel. I am looking in to a two-channel 1.5A driver which could be paralleled and set to give 2.8A but that is only in the planning stages at the moment. It will also be bigger than my existing ones, probably 30×30.

Digikey do 18650 holders but you need to spend £50 to get free delivery. They pay the duties, you just have to pay VAT to the nice chap from UPS, no extra fees.

Bigjim – I have just bought some 18650 holders from this company http://www.luminousdiy.com/Light%20Kits%20and%20Parts.htm you have to build them yourself though.

Blackcat, i’ll take another set please….address for payment as before?

runswithscissors – yup, address as before but due to the components price rises I’m afraid I’ll have to put the pack up to £9 including P&P.

Only one left now!

Ok will send payment tonight BCT.

bct, you’ve got mail..

Bct, Can I put a hold on the other one?
Trout do you have another set to make another light please (I’ve a friend who put in a request for a light kit if available)?

All kits now reserved! Wish I’d know how fast they would go, I could have added a few more bits to the Rapid order I did yesterday…

Damn too late again! <cries>

I do have some more leds coming in hopefully next week
and have a few Optics in stock .
so will be able to supply a few more kits.

anyone got one working yet

Trout, put me down for one then pls.

trout, I would take a kit if black cat had the driver etc available, or I might take one anyway when I can do some homework and check what I can do regarding sourcing the bits elsewhere.