Batteries arrived from DX finally. Found a good little case in Mountain Warehouse that fits my DIY 4×18650 holder perfectly, so job done for now, though I do have an itch to make a v2 with a more spready optic on one LED if I can find info on them somewhere. I whittled part of troutie’s mount down to fit into a broken Exposure mount I have lying around, just off to test it in the snow, seems solid. Total cost of light must be about £50-£60 I guess, nae bad!
I’ve bought a few of the extension cables from DX (http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.32751) so if anyone would like one fire me an email. I’m guessing they will take a while to arrive though…
Yes I did Jammy also replied see my post further up
theres millions of parcels languishing in warehouses due to the weather and xmas rush just have to be patient
trout – Are the kits (from you) still £20 each? i need two kits and one box (i already have the other box) so i make it £48? can you confirm and i will have payment across to you today.
just striped down a ‘dead’ laptop battery i was given at work and all cells were between 3.92 and 3.94 volts. i haven’t ordered a charger yet, so can’t test any further
I think the driver doesn’t have polarity protection if I remember correctly. Not sure if the badness would have made it as far as the leds and if they would be damaged too.
The driver will have gone – they are not tolerant of reverse connection of power I’m afraid. Next batch I’m going to have to add this as I’ve found a way to do it with minimal losses. Only problem is I’ve got a few hundred of these to get through first…
It is unlikely to have reached the LEDs but not impossible. The LED+ is near enough the power + (only a low value resistor between them). The LED- should only go live when the driver IC starts switching which it won’t have done with power the wrong way but it depends what internal damage it has done to the IC. Or if you happen to have a LED short to the case.
As I’ve suggested before, and easy and safe way to test power LEDs is a PP3, preferably a really cheap one, direct across the LED. They can’t source enough current to do any damage but I wouldn’t do it for long, just enough to test it still works.
Thanks bobblehat, on the bottom of the new driver i have there are 5 small holes that show metal,will they short out on the ali heatsink or is it not a problem.
I used the AAA directly on the board … it’s non-conductive and non-capacitive. The AAA layer, even if very thin, will insulate the board from the small piece of aluminium. I think the exposed metal is actually minutely recessed as the solder mask covers all but those exposed bits.
Did you get a case with solid plastic ends or metal ends with plastic bezel? I think you’ll be OK with using AAA to stick the little ali plate to either.
If you got the new-type power connector as well (I think you did) then there is less of a problem with electrical shorts through a metal backplate as the body is now plastic. The original power connectors I supplied had a metal body so of course the backplate (and in theory the whole case) was live. There may still be a problem if there are any shorts on the LED connections to the case but as bobble says AAA is insulative so you shouldn’t need to worry.
Best check on the size of the mounting plate, as the connections are now on both sides of the board make sure you don’t short between them.
Epoxy not ideal as it starts to soften when you get over about 50-60C. Also heat transfer to the block will be minimal. That said, the new driver runs cooler anyway so not such an issue but it is always good to reduce the temperature as far as possible.
If you are using AAA to mount your LEDs then do the driver at the same time. If you’ve already done the LEDs or are using thermal paste and screws then you would probably get away with epoxy or a contact adhesive.
managed to finally finish off my MK2 triple hammond yesterday.. 😆
2 cool white XPG using regina reflectors, and a single warm white (i think its warm anyway..) XPG through an oval optic to give a bit of spread and less of a cold beam in the foreground..
first ride with it tomorrow.. cant wait! 8)
thanks to trout and Blackcattech for the parts / inspiration!
MK3 and 4 are already being planned with some triple XPG boards… 😯
What optic did you use spacehopper? Very keen to get one of my 2 leds through a more floody optic than the regina reflector – get a bit more light around the foreground.
not the prettiest of things.. reminds me of Number 5 from Short circuit..
It was going to have a piece of plastic or something in front of the clear perspex front to make the front look neater but found they interfered with the beam when next to the reflectors..
shifted the heatsink upwards in the case too to the top as when the LEDS where at the bottom the bottom of the case it cut off part of the beam and stopped the light shining downwards to where the front wheel is..
oh.. and if you do use one of the oval / laura type optics they are about 2mm shorter than a regina reflector… so i cut a square of aluminium to put behind the LED and space it to the same level at the front. So as not to block the periphery of the oval beam being blocked by the Regina’s either side..
will take some beamshots tomorrow night and post them on here if i remember! 8)
and yes there is a minimum order of £20 at Farnell..
its pretty near to where My other half lives in Leeds though so i might pop in over the weekend as ive seen big billboards advertising a trade counter and see if i can pick up some of the new Laura Optics and see if they are any better..