Hi Joec1 ….. Errrm ….. you may have the driver kit from BCT that has a built in resistor on the board to give a low power setting, as well as off and full ….. ignore my %age figures. Is it the diagram on page 26 from Mountain King you are referring to? Can’t see anything on p25. You could check with BCT which version of the driver you got …… it will make a difference to how you wire the dim setting.
You can still try my suggestion of eliminating any problems regarding the wiring of the dim/off/full switch, by temporarily leaving out the wiring of the switch while you try to see what’s wrong. Assuming nowt’s bu88ered, and you’ve wired the rest OK, the light should come on full with no switch connected and draw around 600mA if your voltage is around the 12V mark.
Love-Tubs ( 😉 ) ……. looks a tight squeeze in there …. what’s the chance that something shorted? Is the small socket and 3.5mm jack your remote switch? Are you sure you bu99ered everything?
If you are using the Maplin/Farnell/Rapid miniature toggle switch for dimming/off then there is no problem …… switches don’t often have a min voltage but they usually have a max ampage and max voltage combo.
Somewhere I have 4 of these that I can not solder …… I pulled the tab off one of them trying to make a connection but it still works. I then chickened out on trying the other 3 and they are untouched and in my spares box until get desperate 😳 . Interested?
Joec have you tested the brightness outside in the dark or just by looking at it? I chose the lower dim mode and its still seriously bright and not too noticeably different inside. Failing that you might have shorted something so hi is still dim.
I have run out of the XPGs on 20 mm stars but could do one with
xpgs on 10 mm square boards but that would make it a difficult build
as the reflector sits on the solder pads .
Since last winter I’ve been chipping away at this project; typically 15 to 30 mins on a Sat morning whilst the lads watch The Octonauts on iplayer at 6:30 am. After some design re-thinks, 2 toasted drivers (boy have I learned about insulation)…it’s done.
Troutie, the SUGRU was/is absolutely FANTATIC… I used it extensively from insulating soldered wires, creating lead trunking, waterproofing the plug-lead junctions and ‘forging’ the mounting stubs….it’s totally awesome. What’s even better, it’s p1ss easy to remove; when dry, with a Stanley knife.
OT: Found a thread re the trout thinking of leaving the light market….shame.
Can’t wait for…..erm…..the evenings to draw in….. I’m running away, right now….
…the post went all pete-tong,,,stw told me the tread was too old to reply to and so I didn’t bother finishing it and yet…..the initial slides are here??
I reposted on one of trouties but I can’f find that either? Must stop the late night STW sessions.
..wait…found it, with beam shots too. I hi-jacked Trouties Spider-Eyes thread. BTW, how amazing is that XML unit??
Errr, are the drivers for this still available? I was ‘upgrading’ the cable to a magicshine cable and when I removed the old wire from the -ve terminal on the driver, I pulled out the little metal pad around the hole, and there isn’t anything for the solder to fix to now. DOH