Cutting kitchen work top – how? What do I need?
Is this for the hob ? Yes you can cut the aperture in the worktop in-situ. You need a circular saw which you plunge in and cut along the marked out lines. It will chip the laminate (if you have laminate) to an extent although it should be masked by the lip of the hob. Reduce the laminate chipping by very slowly entering and existing with the plunge. Also a new/very sharp blade will help greatly. Finish off the cuts to the corners using a panel saw or if the corners need to be curved a jigsaw.
Alternatively avoid making a pig’s ear of it by employing someone who knows what he’s doing 🙂Posted 4 years agonealgloverMember
If the mrs talks me into it I’m gonna need to get a 90cm oven into a 60cm space ….
If your wanting to get rid of 30 cm of base unit your going to struggle ( unless you happen to have a 30cm unit there already)
You either know by looking at it what needs doing, or you don’t.
And as you are asking about it here, I guess you are in second category?)
Get someone who knows what they are doing to have a look at it is my advice.Posted 4 years ago
He mentions oven? I’m assuming he is swapping a 60cm free standing for a 90cm range?
Yes it can be cut in situ, but your not going to get the best results as its best to cut from the under side or with a router.
Mark your line, score with a Stanley and cut with a sharp hand saw. It will get a bit awkward near the wall. Fit metal strips.
Or as stated get someone in.
Russ (kitchen fitter)Posted 4 years agoBlazin-saddlesMember
As Neal’s comment,
are we talking changing a 60cm built under oven for a 90cm built under oven? If so it will require cabinet moving/deleting to make the space, this could possibly be done without removing the worktop depending on how the fitter attached the units to the wall, the hardware may be in the void at the back of the unit.
Are we talking a 60cm hob being changed for a 90cm one? If so most wider hobs have a similar cutout width to std ones. so the alteration might not be so hard.
I fit kitchens for a living and would have to think carefully about the task.Posted 4 years agoernie_lynchMember
So you want to cut across the whole width of the worktop then ? Ideally you need to remove the worktop and cut it upside with a circular saw with a very sharp blade. You’ll need to re-edge it. Near a free standing cooker I reckon metal edging strip looks OK and provides useful protection, though others might not agree concerning the aesthetic quality of this, otherwise you’ll have to get matching edging.Posted 4 years agotakisawa2Subscriber
I’m no kitchen fitter but I had to widen the slot for the fridge, so I used one of those hardpoint hand saws. I’m not too bad at wood bodging though. Just start slow. I carefully chain drilled a slot then let the saw do the work. Nice smooth strokes at the edge to stop chipping.
I bought a so called Professional jigsaw from Wickes once & ended up taking it back. Utter pants.Posted 4 years ago
What are you doing about the adjacent cabinet?Posted 4 years ago
Cut worktop, fit edging, fit bayonet for new cooker (gas safe plumber)
Stick cooker in new gap, cut plinth to suit.
You might need to pack the floor up if the tiles don’t go right back and there might be issues with wall tiles unless you sit the cooker slightly higher.
Your a bit far for me to do it but it ain’t a huge job, prob half day.pocketrocketMember
Is the new cooker on legs? i.e. can you see underneath it?
If so the first thing I’d be checking is whether your floor tiling goes all the way back to the wall or stops at the cabinet legs.
(unless of course you can get some matching tiles)
Also are there any wall units above? If there are, take a step back and have a look how everything else would work, as it could end up looking a bit odd.Posted 4 years agoBigJohnSubscriber
All I will add is that for neat jigsaw cuts you can get “cut down” blades (BR 101 is the code you’re looking for). Normal “cut up” ones splinter the top surface. Cut down blades leave a smooth(ish) top and a splintered underneath. You need to apply a bit more pressure to stop the saw riding up, but nothing much.
I use them all the time.Posted 4 years ago
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