Just been there for two weeks. First week stayed at Valamar club hotel north of Dubrovnik. Dubrovnik itself didn’t have much going for it; it’s hot, lots of traffic, very busy with tourists. Dubrovnik old city is architecturally interesting but can be done in a day: walk the city walls, have some ice-cream, get the cable car to the fort, look at the museum while up there (probably the second most interesting aspect of the whole town and its hidden away where no-one knows it’s there). Down in the old city, we got the semi-submarine which wasn’t as great as it sounded. The seafloor is quite bare so there aren’t many fish to look at. If you’re a GoT fan you might get extremely excited to see the film sets around the old city and maybe have your wallet cleared out with guided tours.
The beaches are mostly quite stoney, but a lot of concrete has been poured in-between the rocks, creating intimate little perches for people to fry themselves. We had an 18 month old with us, so these areas were pretty much inaccessible. Water was reasonably warm, more-so in the evening.
Second week we stayed at Hotel Croatia in Cavtat. Totally different experience, so much nicer than Dubrovnik. It’s a lovely little fishing harbour within a sheltered bay. There is however only one ‘beach’, about 30 metres long, over near the western end of the harbour. The town is under the flight path but the planes are infrequent and you get used to them after a couple of days. Note that the hotel Croatia didn’t do free airport pick-ups/drop-offs. It was 120 kuna one-way for the taxi, or catch the bus from the village centre for 20 kuna each…
We did the Elephati islands tour but that was fairly dull and most the time was just sitting on a boat chugging along.
So I’d recommend go to a small fishing village, or book out a boat and potter along the Adriatic coast. Or if you’ve got a spare £100,000, hire out a super-yacht for a week…